The three ways to mount a soundbar and which one fits your setup
A soundbar can sit on a shelf or table below your TV, mount to the wall directly, or attach to the TV itself using a bracket. Wall mounting looks cleanest and keeps the soundbar out of the way. TV mounting works if your TV is on an arm or stand with room underneath. Shelf placement is the easiest if you already have furniture positioned right. The choice depends on your wall type, TV setup, and how much of the soundbar's front you want visible.
Most soundbars come with a wall-mounting template and hardware in the box. If yours did not, you can buy a universal soundbar bracket for $15 to $40. The actual installation takes 20 to 30 minutes if you have the right tools and know where to drill.
Key Takeaways
- Wall mounting requires finding studs in drywall or using heavy-duty anchors, and works best on solid surfaces like concrete or brick.
- TV mounting uses a bracket that attaches to your TV's VESA holes (the threaded holes on the back), and the soundbar hangs below the screen.
- Shelf mounting needs a stable, level surface and keeps cables visible unless you run them behind furniture or through the wall.
- You will need a stud finder, drill, level, and the right fasteners for your wall type before you start.
- Most soundbars weigh 3 to 8 pounds, so standard drywall anchors work if you cannot hit a stud.
Wall mounting: finding studs and drilling the right holes
Wall mounting is the most common choice because it keeps the soundbar at ear level and clears your furniture. Start by using a stud finder to locate the wooden framing behind your drywall. Studs are usually 16 inches apart. Mark two studs with a pencil where you want the soundbar to sit — typically 6 to 12 inches below your TV.
Most soundbars have mounting holes on the back or come with a metal bracket that has holes. Hold the bracket or soundbar against the wall at your marked spots and use a level to make sure it is straight. Mark the hole locations with a pencil, then drill pilot holes (smaller holes that guide the larger fastener). Screw in the wall anchors or bolts, then hang the soundbar.
If you cannot hit a stud, use heavy-duty drywall anchors rated for at least 15 pounds. Toggler or Molly bolts work better than plastic anchors for soundbars because they spread the weight across more drywall. Avoid mounting on plaster or textured walls without anchors — they crumble easily.
TV mounting: attaching the soundbar to your television
TV mounting works if your TV is on an articulating arm or a stand with clearance below the screen. Look at the back of your TV for four threaded holes arranged in a rectangle — these are called VESA holes. The spacing is usually 100 × 100 millimeters, 200 × 100 millimeters, or 200 × 200 millimeters. Your soundbar bracket must match your TV's VESA pattern.
Buy a bracket designed for your soundbar model and TV size. Attach the bracket to the TV using the bolts that came with it, then slide or bolt the soundbar onto the bracket. Make sure the soundbar does not block your TV's speakers, sensors, or vents. This method keeps everything in one unit and makes it straightforward to move if you rearrange your room.
The downside is that your soundbar moves with your TV if you tilt or swivel it. Some people find this annoying if they adjust the TV angle often. Also, a heavy soundbar (over 8 pounds) can strain the TV's arm or stand, so check the weight limit before you buy.
Shelf mounting: the simplest option if you have the space
Placing the soundbar on a shelf or table below your TV requires no drilling and takes seconds to set up. The shelf must be level, sturdy enough to hold the soundbar's weight, and positioned so the sound reaches ear level when you are sitting. Most people put it on a TV stand, media console, or wall-mounted shelf.
The main drawback is that cables run visibly from the soundbar to your receiver or TV. You can hide them by running them behind the furniture, through a cable raceway (a plastic channel that sticks to the wall), or inside the wall if you are comfortable drilling. Shelf mounting also takes up surface space that you might use for other things.
This method works well if your soundbar is small (under 30 inches) or if your furniture is already positioned perfectly. It is also the easiest to undo if you change your mind or move.
Tools and fasteners you will need
Before you start, gather a drill, a level, a stud finder, a tape measure, and a pencil. You will also need the right fasteners for your wall type. For drywall with studs, use 2.5-inch wood screws or bolts. For drywall without studs, use toggle bolts or heavy-duty anchors rated for 15 pounds or more. For concrete or brick, use concrete anchors and a masonry bit on your drill.
Check your soundbar's manual or the mounting bracket to see what size holes you need. Most use 1/4-inch bolts. If the bracket came with fasteners, use those first — they are sized for the soundbar. If you are buying your own, bring the bracket to the hardware store and match the hole size.
Running cables after you mount
Once the soundbar is mounted, you need to connect it to power and to your TV or receiver. The power cable usually runs down the wall to an outlet. The audio cable (HDMI, optical, or Bluetooth) connects to your TV or receiver. If you want cables hidden, run them behind the wall using a low-voltage conduit, or use a cable raceway that sticks to the wall surface.
If you are running cables inside the wall, drill a hole at the top and bottom of the wall where the soundbar will sit and where your receiver is. Use a fish tape (a flexible wire tool) to pull the cable through. This is easier if you have a stud finder that also detects pipes and wires — you want to avoid those.
For most setups, running cables along the wall behind furniture or a TV stand is simpler and does not require drilling into studs. Use cable clips or velcro straps to keep them neat and out of sight.
Troubleshooting common mounting problems
If your soundbar is crooked after mounting, use a level to check the bracket and loosen the bolts slightly. Adjust until the bubble in the level is centered, then tighten again. If the soundbar sags or feels loose, the fasteners may not be holding. Remove it and check that the bolts are tight and the anchors are fully seated in the wall.
If you drilled into a stud but the bolt still spins, you may have hit a knot in the wood or drilled at an angle. Back out the bolt, move 2 inches to the side, and try again. If drywall anchors keep pulling out, the wall may be too thin or damaged. Use toggle bolts instead — they grip better and hold heavier loads.
If your soundbar blocks the TV's remote sensor or vents, move it lower or to the side. Most TVs have sensors on the bottom bezel, so mounting the soundbar 8 to 10 inches below the TV usually works. Check your TV's manual if you are unsure where the sensor is.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I mount a soundbar on a plaster or textured wall?
Yes, but use heavy-duty anchors instead of relying on studs. Plaster is brittle and crumbles easily, so toggle bolts or Molly bolts grip better than plastic anchors. Test the anchor in a hidden spot first to make sure the plaster does not crack. If it does, consider a shelf or TV mount instead.
What if my TV does not have VESA holes?
Older TVs and some flat-panel models do not have VESA holes. In that case, wall mounting or shelf mounting is your best option. You can also buy a universal TV bracket with VESA holes and attach it to your TV's stand, then mount the soundbar to that bracket.
Do I need to turn off the power before mounting?
Yes. Turn off and unplug the soundbar before you mount it. If you are running cables inside the wall, turn off the circuit breaker for that wall to avoid drilling into live wires. Use a stud finder that detects electrical wires to double-check before you drill.
How high should a soundbar be mounted above the floor?
Mount it 6 to 12 inches below your TV, or at ear level when you are sitting on your couch. If your TV is mounted high on the wall, the soundbar should be lower so the sound reaches your ears directly. Avoid mounting it so high that sound travels over your head.
Can I mount a soundbar on a brick or concrete wall?
Yes, and it is actually easier than drywall because concrete and brick do not need anchors — the fastener grips the solid material directly. Use a masonry bit and concrete anchors rated for your soundbar's weight. Drill slowly to avoid cracking the surface, and wear a dust mask because concrete dust is harmful to breathe.