The simplest compost bin is a pile in a corner, but a contained bin keeps rodents out and speeds decomposition

You can make a working compost bin from wood pallets, a plastic storage container, wire fencing, or even a garbage can with holes drilled in it. The bin does not need to be fancy—it needs to hold material in one place, let air and water move through it, and keep pests from tunneling in from below. A basic wooden pallet bin takes an afternoon to build and costs almost nothing if you find free pallets. A plastic bin works if you have limited space. Wire bins are the cheapest to make but offer the least pest protection.

The size that works best depends on how much kitchen and yard waste you generate. A bin that is 3 feet wide, 3 feet deep, and 3 feet tall holds enough material to heat up and decompose actively. Smaller bins still work but take longer to break down. Larger bins are harder to turn and manage by hand.

Key Takeaways

  • A wooden pallet bin is the fastest build: four pallets, wire or hinges, and two hours of work.
  • Your bin needs drainage holes or gaps at the bottom so water does not pool, and air gaps in the sides so the pile does not go anaerobic.
  • A lid or cover keeps rain from waterlogging the pile and keeps raccoons and rats from digging in from above.
  • The bin location matters: partial shade keeps the pile from drying out too fast, and level ground prevents water from pooling on one side.

Building a wooden pallet bin

Find four wooden pallets of the same size—check behind grocery stores, garden centers, or warehouses. Look for pallets that are not stamped with "MB" (methyl bromide treated), which is toxic. Pallets stamped "HT" (heat treated) are safe. Stand the four pallets on edge to form a square, with the open side facing you. Wire them together at the corners using fencing wire or zip ties, or bolt them if you want a more permanent structure.

Drill or punch holes in the bottom pallet (or the ground beneath it) so water can drain. If the pallet sits directly on soil, water will drain naturally, but if it sits on concrete or compacted ground, drill 1-inch holes every 12 inches across the bottom. Attach a hinged lid to the back or top using old hinges or a piece of plywood on hinges so you can access the finished compost at the bottom.

This bin costs almost nothing if you find free pallets and have wire or zip ties at home. It lasts three to five years before the wood rots, depending on your climate.

Making a plastic storage bin composter

A 32-gallon or larger plastic storage container works well for small households or apartment balconies. Drill holes around all four sides, about 1 inch in diameter, spaced 6 inches apart. Drill holes in the bottom as well—at least six holes—so excess water can drain. Drill holes in the lid too, so air can reach the top of the pile.

Place the bin on a slight slope or on a pallet so water can drain away from the bottom. Fill it with alternating layers of brown material (dry leaves, shredded paper, cardboard) and green material (grass clippings, food scraps, plant trimmings). When it is full, stop adding material and let it decompose for two to three months. Start a second bin while the first one breaks down.

Plastic bins heat up faster than wooden ones because they are smaller and more enclosed, but they also dry out faster. Check the moisture level every week—the pile should feel like a wrung-out sponge, not soggy or bone-dry.

Building a wire cylinder bin

Roll a length of wire fencing (chicken wire or hardware cloth) into a cylinder about 3 feet in diameter and 3 feet tall. Overlap the ends by 6 inches and wire them together. Stand the cylinder on level ground—no bottom needed, since the open bottom lets water drain and earthworms move in and out.

This is the cheapest bin to build, costing only the price of fencing wire. The downside is that rodents can burrow underneath and access the pile from below. To prevent this, lay hardware cloth (smaller mesh than chicken wire) flat on the ground before you set the cylinder down, or bury the bottom edge of the fencing 6 inches into the soil.

Wire bins work best in yards where you do not have a serious rodent problem. They are straightforward to disassemble and move, and they let air flow freely through the pile.

Preparing the site and drainage

Choose a spot that gets partial shade—full sun dries out the pile too fast, and full shade slows decomposition. Level the ground as much as you can so water does not pool on one side. If your yard slopes, place the bin on the higher side of the slope.

If you are building on concrete or very compacted soil, lay down a layer of hardware cloth or landscape fabric to keep burrowing pests out. Leave the fabric loose enough that water can drain through. If you are building on bare soil, you do not need a barrier—earthworms and beneficial insects will move in naturally.

Make sure the bin is at least 3 feet away from your house, deck, or fence. Compost piles can attract insects and rodents, and you want them away from where you spend time. If you live in a neighborhood with strict rules, check your local code before building—some areas limit bin size or require them to be screened from neighbors' view.

Adding a lid or cover

A lid keeps rain from waterlogging the pile and keeps raccoons, rats, and other animals from digging in from above. It does not have to be airtight—in fact, you want some air to reach the top of the pile. A straightforward plywood sheet propped on top works. A hinged lid made from scrap wood or an old door frame is more convenient because you can lift it without moving it.

If you use a plastic bin, the bin itself is the lid. If you use a wire cylinder, a piece of plywood or a wooden frame covered with hardware cloth keeps pests out while letting rain through. Leave a small gap or drill holes so air can enter.

Choosing materials that last

Untreated wood pallets last longer than you might think—usually three to five years before they start to rot. Pressure-treated wood is not recommended for compost because the chemicals can leach into your finished compost. Cedar or redwood pallets last longer but are harder to find free.

Plastic bins last indefinitely but can become brittle in direct sun after several years. Wire fencing rusts slowly, especially if it is galvanized, but will eventually need replacing. Hardware cloth lasts longer than chicken wire because it has smaller mesh and thicker wire.

If you plan to keep the bin for more than five years, invest in better materials upfront. If you are experimenting with composting for the first time, build with whatever you have on hand—you can always rebuild or upgrade later.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a bottom on my compost bin?

No, but it depends on your pest situation. An open bottom lets earthworms and beneficial insects move in, and water drains naturally. If you have rats or burrowing animals, lay hardware cloth on the ground before you build the bin, or bury the bottom edge of the bin 6 inches into the soil.

Can I use treated wood for the bin?

Pressure-treated wood contains chemicals that can leach into your compost over time. Use untreated wood, or look for pallets stamped "HT" (heat treated). Cedar and redwood are naturally rot-resistant and safe, but they are harder to find free.

What size bin do I actually need?

A 3-by-3-by-3-foot bin is the standard because it holds enough material to heat up and decompose actively. Smaller bins still work but decompose slower. If you have very little space, a 2-by-2-foot bin or a plastic storage container works—it just takes longer.

How often do I need to turn the compost?

You do not have to turn it at all—compost will break down on its own, just more slowly. Turning it every two to four weeks speeds decomposition. If your bin has a removable front or side, you can fork material from one bin into another to turn it without much effort.

Can I make a compost bin from a garbage can?

Yes. Drill holes around all sides and in the bottom for drainage and air flow. A 32-gallon garbage can works like a plastic storage bin. Drill at least 20 holes total, spaced evenly. Drill holes in the lid too so air can reach the pile.