You can make compost in your yard or indoors using kitchen scraps and yard waste
Compost is decomposed organic material that improves soil. You make it by layering brown materials (dry leaves, shredded paper, cardboard) with green materials (food scraps, grass clippings, plant trimmings) and letting them break down over time. The process takes anywhere from two months to a year depending on your method, how often you turn the pile, and the season.
You do not need special equipment or a large space. A straightforward pile in a corner of your yard works. So does a bin you build from pallets, a purchased tumbler, or even a sealed container indoors. The basic principle is the same: the right mix of materials plus moisture and air equals finished compost.
Key Takeaways
- Layer brown materials (leaves, paper) and green materials (food scraps, grass) in a roughly 3-to-1 ratio to keep decomposition balanced.
- Keep your pile as moist as a wrung-out sponge and turn it every week or two if you want finished compost in two to three months.
- Avoid meat, dairy, oils, and pet waste, which attract pests or introduce harmful bacteria.
- A finished pile will look dark, crumbly, and earthy and will not smell like rot.
What materials go into a compost pile
Green materials are nitrogen-rich and include fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and tea bags, fresh grass clippings, plant trimmings, and manure from herbivores (horse, rabbit, chicken). These materials heat up the pile and speed decomposition.
Brown materials are carbon-rich and include dry leaves, shredded newspaper or cardboard, straw, wood chips, and sawdust. These materials provide structure and air pockets so the pile does not become a wet, airless mat.
A working ratio is roughly three parts brown to one part green by volume. If your pile smells like ammonia or rotten eggs, you have too much green—add more brown. If it is not heating up and decomposing, you likely have too much brown or not enough moisture.
Materials to keep out of your compost
Do not add meat, fish, bones, or dairy products. These attract rats, raccoons, and flies. They also take much longer to break down and can create odor problems.
Avoid oils, fats, and grease for the same reason. Do not include pet waste (dog or cat feces), diseased plants, or weeds that have gone to seed—the pile may not get hot enough to kill pathogens or weed seeds. Glossy or colored paper, coal ash, and treated wood also do not belong.
Grass clippings are fine if they come from a lawn that has not been treated with pesticides or herbicides in the past few weeks. If you are unsure, leave them out.
Building and maintaining a straightforward outdoor pile
Choose a spot that gets partial sun and has decent drainage. Lay down a layer of coarse brown material (twigs, wood chips) so air can flow underneath. Then alternate layers: a few inches of green, a few inches of brown, and repeat until the pile is three to four feet tall.
Water each layer lightly as you build so the whole pile is moist but not waterlogged—think of a wrung-out sponge. In dry weather, water the pile every week or two. In heavy rain, you may need to cover the top with a tarp or cardboard to prevent it from becoming soggy.
Turn the pile every one to two weeks by moving material from the outside edges to the center. This speeds decomposition to two to three months. If you do not turn it, the process takes six months to a year. Either way works; turning is just faster.
Using a bin or tumbler for faster results
A compost bin contains the pile and keeps out pests. You can buy one or build one from four wooden pallets fastened at the corners with wire or bolts. Bins work the same way as open piles: layer brown and green, keep it moist, and turn it regularly.
A tumbler is a sealed barrel on a stand or axle that you rotate by hand. Tumblers heat up faster and finish compost in four to eight weeks because turning is easier and happens more often. They also keep out rodents and are good for small yards. The trade-off is cost and the physical effort of turning.
Both bins and tumblers need drainage holes or a way to remove finished compost from the bottom. Without drainage, the pile becomes waterlogged and stops decomposing.
Indoor composting for apartments and small spaces
You can compost indoors using a worm bin (also called vermicomposting). A worm bin is a stacked plastic container system where red wiggler worms break down food scraps. It sits under a sink, in a closet, or on a balcony and produces finished compost in three to six months.
Worm bins work best with fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, and shredded paper. Avoid meat, dairy, and oils. The bin needs to stay between 55 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit, so it works better indoors in cold climates. You can also use a bokashi bucket, which ferments food scraps (including meat and dairy) in an airtight container using special bran. Bokashi takes about two weeks and produces a pre-compost that you then bury in soil or add to an outdoor pile to finish breaking down.
Knowing when your compost is ready to use
Finished compost looks dark brown or black, crumbly, and earthy. You should not see the original materials—they are fully broken down. It smells like soil, not like rot or ammonia. A handful should feel moist but not wet.
If you see recognizable food scraps or leaves, the pile needs more time. If it is still heating up (the center feels warm to the touch), keep turning it and wait. Once it cools down and looks uniform, it is ready.
You can use finished compost to amend garden beds, mix into potting soil, or top-dress lawns. It improves soil structure, adds nutrients, and helps soil hold water.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I compost in winter?
Yes, but decomposition slows significantly in cold weather because microbes work more slowly. A pile started in fall will not finish until spring. In very cold climates, an insulated bin or indoor worm bin works better. You can keep adding scraps to an outdoor pile all winter; they will break down once temperatures rise.
Why does my compost smell bad?
A rotten-egg or ammonia smell means the pile is too wet or has too much green material and not enough air. Turn it, add brown material, and reduce watering. A bad smell usually clears within a few days of turning. A healthy pile should smell earthy.
Can I use compost from a pile that still has some unbroken material in it?
Yes. You can sift out larger pieces and return them to the pile, or just use the compost as-is. Unbroken material will continue to decompose in the soil. Many gardeners do not bother sifting and get good results.
Do I need to add anything to speed up composting?
No. A balanced pile with the right moisture and regular turning will decompose on its own. Compost starters and accelerators are not necessary. Turning the pile and keeping it moist are the most effective ways to speed the process.
What if I do not have space for a pile or bin?
A worm bin or bokashi bucket takes up minimal space and works indoors. You can also check whether your city or county has a compost drop-off program where you can bring scraps to be composted centrally. Some communities offer free finished compost to residents in return.