The simplest compost bin is a pile in a corner of your yard, but a contained bin keeps rodents out and speeds decomposition

You can start composting with no bin at all—just a heap on bare ground works. But a bin gives you four real advantages: it keeps the pile contained so it doesn't spread across your yard, it discourages rats and other animals from burrowing into it, it lets you turn the pile more easily, and it heats up faster because the material stays denser. You can buy a bin ready-made, or build one yourself from wood pallets, wire fencing, or plastic storage containers in about an hour with basic tools.

The bin doesn't have to be fancy or expensive. What matters is that it holds material in a pile roughly 3 feet wide by 3 feet tall by 3 feet deep—that size heats up enough to break down food scraps and yard waste in a few months instead of a year. Smaller piles work too; they just decompose more slowly.

Key Takeaways

  • A three-sided wooden bin made from untreated wood pallets or boards takes about an hour to build and costs little or nothing if you have scrap materials on hand.
  • Wire fencing or hardware cloth wrapped around four stakes makes a straightforward cylindrical bin that lets air flow through and is straightforward to disassemble when you need to turn the pile.
  • Plastic storage bins work for small-scale composting in tight spaces, though they need drainage holes drilled in the bottom and sides.
  • Leave the bottom open to the soil so worms and microbes can move in from the ground, and avoid treated wood that contains chemicals.
  • Position your bin where it gets at least a few hours of sun and is close enough to your kitchen that you will actually use it.

Building a three-sided wooden bin from pallets or boards

This is the most common DIY bin and requires only a hammer, nails or screws, and a level. Find four untreated wooden pallets or cut four pieces of untreated lumber to the same length—36 inches is a good starting size. Stand three of them upright to form three sides of a square, and nail or screw them together at the corners. Leave the fourth side open so you can reach in to turn the pile and pull finished compost out from the bottom.

If you are using pallets, check that they are not stamped with "HT" (heat-treated) or "MB" (methyl bromide)—those chemicals leach into your compost. Pallets marked "DB" (debarked) are safe. If you cannot find pallets, buy untreated pine or cedar boards from a hardware store. Treated lumber, which is often green or brown, will poison your soil with copper and arsenic compounds.

find the corners with galvanized nails or exterior-grade screws so they do not rust. If the ground is uneven, use a level to make sure the top edges are roughly horizontal, or water will pool on one side. Dig out high spots or add soil under low corners if needed.

Making a wire cylinder bin for straightforward turning

A cylinder made from wire fencing or hardware cloth is lighter than wood, easier to move, and lets you see inside. Buy a roll of 1/2-inch hardware cloth or 1-inch chicken wire at least 3 feet tall—36 inches wide is standard. You will also need four wooden stakes, a staple gun, and wire cutters.

Drive the stakes into the ground in a circle about 3 feet across. Unroll the wire and wrap it around the stakes, overlapping the ends by at least 6 inches. Staple the wire to each stake every 12 inches or so, pulling it tight as you go. The wire should form a cylinder with no large gaps where animals can squeeze in.

When you want to turn the pile, straightforward unstaple one side, pull the wire away, and fork the material from the center outward. Then re-form the cylinder around the turned pile. This design works especially well if you turn your compost regularly, because the open sides let air flow through and speed decomposition.

Using plastic storage bins for small spaces

If you have limited yard space or want to compost on a patio or balcony, a large plastic storage bin works. Buy a bin at least 18 inches deep—the bigger the better, because small piles heat up slowly. Drill holes in the bottom for drainage and along the sides for air flow, spacing them about 4 inches apart. A 1/4-inch drill bit is the right size.

Set the bin on a tray or in a larger container to catch liquid that drains out—this "compost tea" is good for plants, so do not let it run away. Keep a lid on the bin to keep out fruit flies and rodents. Plastic bins work best if you chop your materials into small pieces before adding them, because the confined space does not let large chunks break down as fast.

Choosing a location and preparing the ground

Place your bin where it gets at least a few hours of direct sun each day. Sun helps the pile heat up and speeds decomposition. Partial shade is fine too—the pile will work, just a bit slower. Avoid deep shade under a tree, where the pile stays too wet and cool.

Position the bin close to your kitchen door if you can, because the closer it is, the more likely you are to use it regularly. A bin 50 feet away gets neglected; one 20 feet away gets fed. Make sure water drains away from the spot after rain—a bin sitting in a puddle becomes waterlogged and smells bad.

If you are building a wooden or wire bin, set it directly on bare soil with no barrier underneath. Worms, beetles, and microbes will move up from the ground into your pile and speed decomposition. If you must put the bin on concrete or asphalt, lay down cardboard first and accept that the pile will decompose more slowly.

What to avoid when building your bin

Do not use treated wood, which is often stamped with a color or label and contains copper or arsenic compounds that leach into soil and plants. Do not use pallets that carried chemicals or pesticides—if you do not know the history, skip it. Do not make the bin so tall or deep that you cannot reach the bottom to turn it or remove finished compost; 3 feet is the practical limit for most people.

Do not seal the bottom with plastic or concrete, because your pile needs contact with the soil below. Do not make the bin so small that it cannot hold enough material to heat up—anything under 2 feet on a side will decompose very slowly. Do not put the bin in a spot where it will be shaded all day or where water pools after rain.

Getting your bin ready to use

Once your bin is built, add a 4-inch layer of coarse material at the bottom—twigs, straw, or shredded paper work well. This creates air pockets so oxygen can flow through the pile. Then start adding your compost materials: alternating layers of "brown" items like dry leaves and shredded paper with "green" items like grass clippings and food scraps. Keep the pile as moist as a wrung-out sponge.

You do not need to buy anything to start—no starter cultures, no special additives. The microbes and worms are already in your yard and in the materials you add. Within a few weeks, the pile will start to heat up as decomposition begins. In three to six months, depending on how often you turn it and how warm your climate is, you will have dark, crumbly finished compost ready to use in your garden.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use treated wood for my compost bin?

No. Treated wood contains copper or arsenic compounds that leach into compost and then into your soil and plants. Use untreated pine, cedar, or pallets marked "DB" (debarked). If the wood is green, brown, or has a label, it is likely treated—skip it.

Do I need a lid on my compost bin?

A lid is not required, but it helps keep out rain (which can waterlog the pile), fruit flies, and rodents. If you use a lid, make sure air can still flow through—do not seal it completely. A straightforward wooden frame with hardware cloth works well.

How often do I need to turn my compost pile?

You do not have to turn it at all—the pile will decompose on its own in six months to a year. Turning it every two to four weeks speeds decomposition to three to six months. A wire cylinder bin makes turning easier than a wooden box.

What size should my bin be?

Three feet by three feet by three feet is the standard size because it holds enough material to heat up and decompose quickly. Smaller bins work but decompose more slowly. Larger bins are harder to turn by hand and may not heat up evenly in the center.

Can I put my compost bin on concrete or asphalt?

Yes, but lay cardboard down first to block the surface. The pile will work without soil contact, but decomposition will be slower because worms and soil microbes cannot move in from below. Bare soil is better if you have the space.