Start Composting with Materials You Already Have at Home
You can begin composting today with a container, brown materials (dry leaves, shredded paper, cardboard), green materials (food scraps, grass clippings), and water. The simplest method is a pile in your yard or a bin made from a plastic storage container with holes drilled in the bottom and sides. Compost forms when bacteria and fungi break down organic matter, a process that takes anywhere from two months to a year depending on how often you turn the pile and what you add to it.
Home composting requires no special equipment, no cost beyond what you may already own, and produces finished compost you can use in gardens, potted plants, or yard beds. The process works because the right balance of materials, moisture, and air creates conditions where decomposition happens naturally.
Key Takeaways
- Layer brown materials (leaves, paper, cardboard) with green materials (food scraps, grass) in a 3-to-1 ratio, keeping the pile as moist as a wrung-out sponge.
- Drill holes in any container you use so air reaches the center of the pile, which speeds decomposition and prevents odors.
- Turn the pile every one to two weeks with a shovel or pitchfork to speed the process, or leave it undisturbed for slower, hands-off composting.
- Finished compost is dark brown, crumbly, and smells like soil; it takes two to twelve months depending on pile size, materials, and how often you turn it.
- Never add meat, dairy, oils, pet waste, or diseased plants, as these attract pests or introduce harmful organisms.
Choose a Container or Build a straightforward Bin
The easiest starting point is a plastic storage bin with a lid. Drill 10 to 15 holes in the bottom for drainage and another 10 to 15 holes around the sides, about 2 inches apart, so air can enter. Place the bin on a level surface outdoors where it will receive some sunlight but not sit in standing water. A bin this size will hold compost for a household of one or two people and finish in four to six months if you turn it weekly.
If you have yard space and want a larger pile, you can build a three-sided bin from untreated wood pallets or wire fencing, or straightforward pile materials on the ground. A pile at least 3 feet wide, 3 feet tall, and 3 feet deep heats up faster and decomposes more quickly than a smaller one. You can also buy a ready-made tumbler bin, which you rotate to mix materials, though this is optional—a stationary pile works just as well if you have patience.
Layer Brown and Green Materials in the Right Proportion
Brown materials are dry, carbon-rich items: fallen leaves, shredded newspaper, cardboard, straw, wood chips, and sawdust. Green materials are nitrogen-rich and wet: fruit and vegetable scraps, grass clippings, coffee grounds, plant trimmings, and manure from herbivores like rabbits or horses. The ideal ratio is roughly 3 parts brown to 1 part green by volume. This balance gives bacteria the carbon they need for energy and the nitrogen they need to reproduce.
Start your bin or pile with a 4-inch layer of brown material to allow air flow at the base. Add a 1- to 2-inch layer of green material, then repeat. Keep layering until your bin is full or your pile reaches 3 feet tall. If you have mostly green scraps and few leaves, shred newspaper or cardboard to add brown material. If you have mostly leaves and no green scraps, add grass clippings, coffee grounds, or vegetable peels from your kitchen as you accumulate them.
Keep the Pile Moist and Well-Aerated
The pile should feel as moist as a wrung-out sponge—damp but not dripping. Water it when the top layers feel dry to the touch, usually every few days in warm weather or weekly in cooler months. If the pile smells like ammonia or rotten eggs, it is too wet or has too much green material; add brown material and let it dry out. If it is not heating up or decomposing after a month, it may be too dry; water it thoroughly.
Air is equally important. Turn the pile every one to two weeks using a shovel or pitchfork, moving material from the outside edges toward the center. This mixes materials, introduces oxygen, and speeds decomposition. If you do not turn the pile, it will still compost but may take twice as long—six months to a year instead of two to four months. Turning also prevents the pile from compacting and becoming anaerobic, which creates foul odors.
Know What to Add and What to Avoid
Safe to add: fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and tea bags, crushed eggshells, grass clippings, leaves, shredded paper and cardboard, straw, hay, wood chips, sawdust, plant trimmings, and manure from herbivores. Chop large items into smaller pieces so they break down faster.
Never add: meat, fish, bones, dairy products, oils, fats, pet waste, diseased plants, weeds with seeds, or glossy or colored paper. Meat and dairy attract rats and raccoons. Oils and fats slow decomposition and create odors. Pet waste and diseased plants introduce pathogens. Weeds with mature seeds will survive composting and spread when you use the finished product.
Recognize When Compost Is Ready to Use
Finished compost is dark brown or black, crumbly, and smells earthy like soil. You should not be able to recognize the original materials—they have broken down completely. The pile will have shrunk to about one-third its original size. If you see whole leaves, food scraps, or wood chips, the compost is not ready; let it sit for another month and turn it again.
Sift finished compost through a 1/2-inch screen or hardware cloth to remove any large pieces, which you can return to a new pile. Use the finished compost in garden beds, mixed into potting soil, or spread around the base of trees and shrubs. One household's compost bin typically produces 5 to 10 gallons of finished compost every three to six months, depending on how much material you add and how often you turn the pile.
Troubleshoot Common Problems
If the pile smells bad, it is usually too wet or has too much green material. Stop adding scraps for a week, add shredded brown material, and turn it daily until the smell fades. If the pile is not heating up or decomposing, it may be too small (less than 3 feet on a side), too dry, or lacking green material. Add more green scraps, water it, and turn it to mix materials together.
If you see flies or gnats, cover food scraps with a 2-inch layer of brown material so they are not exposed. If you see rodents, remove any meat, dairy, or oils you may have added, and make sure your bin has a solid bottom or is elevated off the ground. Rodents are attracted to food, not to plant material alone. If your compost is taking longer than expected, turn it more frequently and make sure the pile is moist enough—these two steps will cut the time in half.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I compost in an apartment or small space?
Yes. Use a small plastic bin under the kitchen sink or on a balcony, or try vermicomposting (composting with worms in a shallow bin indoors). Both methods produce finished compost in two to four months without odor if managed correctly. Keep the bin moist, add brown material over food scraps, and turn it weekly.
How long does it really take to get finished compost?
Two to four months if you turn the pile weekly and keep it moist and balanced. Six to twelve months if you let it sit without turning. A small bin decomposes faster than a large pile because materials are more uniform. Temperature also matters—compost breaks down faster in warm weather than in cold.
What if I don't have brown materials like leaves?
Shred newspaper, cardboard, or paper bags to replace leaves. You can also use straw, hay, or wood chips if you have access to them. Avoid glossy or colored paper. If you have only green scraps and no brown material, compost will still form but may smell bad and take longer; buy a small bag of leaves or wood chips to get your free guide.
Can I add sawdust or wood chips from treated wood?
No. Treated wood contains chemicals that persist in compost and can harm plants. Use only sawdust or chips from untreated wood, or skip them entirely. Untreated wood shavings from pet bedding (if the animal is herbivorous) also work well.
Do I need to add compost starter or microbes?
No. Finished compost, garden soil, or a shovel of material from an existing compost pile will introduce the bacteria and fungi you need. If you have none of these, the microbes are already on the leaves and scraps you add—decomposition will just start more slowly. Compost starter products are not necessary.