You can make compost in your backyard or kitchen with materials you already throw away

Compost is decomposed organic matter—food scraps, yard waste, and paper—that turns into dark, crumbly soil you can use in gardens and potted plants. You do not need special equipment, chemicals, or a large yard. A basic pile in a corner, a wooden bin, or even a sealed container on a kitchen counter will work. The process takes anywhere from two months to a year depending on your method and climate, and it costs nothing to start.

The core principle is straightforward: layer brown materials (dry leaves, shredded paper, cardboard) with green materials (food scraps, grass clippings, plant trimmings), keep the pile moist like a wrung-out sponge, and turn it occasionally. Microorganisms and insects do the actual work of breaking everything down. You end up with finished compost—a dark, earthy-smelling material that looks like soil—ready to dig into garden beds or mix into potting soil.

Key Takeaways

  • Layer brown materials (leaves, cardboard, paper) with green materials (food scraps, grass clippings) in a roughly 3-to-1 ratio by volume to speed decomposition.
  • Keep your pile or bin moist (like a wrung-out sponge) and turn it every one to two weeks if you want finished compost in two to three months, or leave it undisturbed for six to twelve months.
  • Never add meat, dairy, oils, diseased plants, or pet waste; these attract pests or introduce pathogens into your finished compost.
  • Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy; you can use it when ready in gardens, potted plants, or as a lawn topdressing.

What materials to add and what to avoid

Green materials are nitrogen-rich and include fresh food scraps (vegetable peels, fruit, coffee grounds, eggshells), grass clippings, plant trimmings, and fresh manure from herbivores like horses or chickens. These materials heat up the pile and speed decomposition. Brown materials are carbon-rich and include dry leaves, shredded newspaper, cardboard, straw, wood chips, and sawdust. They provide structure and balance the nitrogen from greens.

Never add meat, fish, bones, dairy products, oils, fats, or pet waste. These attract rats, raccoons, and flies, or introduce harmful bacteria into your finished compost. Avoid diseased plants, weeds with seeds, and glossy or colored paper. Citrus peels and onions can slow decomposition, so add them sparingly. If you have a hot, actively turned pile, you can include small amounts of these materials, but a beginner's pile is safer without them.

Building a basic outdoor pile or bin

The simplest method is a pile on bare ground in a shaded corner of your yard. Lay down a layer of brown materials (leaves, straw, or cardboard) about 4 to 6 inches thick. Add a layer of green materials about 2 to 3 inches thick. Repeat until your pile is 3 to 4 feet tall. The larger the pile, the hotter it gets and the faster it decomposes. A pile smaller than 3 feet tall will decompose more slowly.

If you want to contain the pile, build or buy a bin. A wooden pallet bin costs almost nothing: stand four pallets on edge, wire or bolt them together, and leave one side removable so you can pull out finished compost from the bottom. A wire cylinder made from chicken wire or hardware cloth works the same way. Commercial plastic bins are available at garden centers and online; they are compact and tidy but heat up more slowly than open piles. Whatever container you choose, drill or punch holes in the bottom and sides for drainage and airflow.

Moisture and turning for faster results

Keep your pile moist like a wrung-out sponge—damp but not soggy. If it smells like ammonia or rotten eggs, it is too wet; add brown materials and turn it. If it is dry and not heating up, water it. In dry climates, cover the top with cardboard or a tarp to hold moisture. In very wet climates, cover it to prevent waterlogging.

Turning the pile every one to two weeks speeds decomposition by introducing oxygen and mixing materials evenly. Use a garden fork to pull material from the outside of the pile toward the center, where it is hottest. After four to six turns over two to three months, your compost should be finished. If you do not turn the pile, it will still decompose—just more slowly, taking six to twelve months. This method, called cold composting, requires less work and is fine for most home gardeners.

Kitchen composting for small spaces

If you do not have yard space, use a sealed container on your kitchen counter or under the sink. A 5-gallon food-grade bucket with a tight lid works well. Layer food scraps with shredded newspaper or cardboard, and add a handful of finished compost or garden soil to introduce microorganisms. When the bucket is full, seal it and let it sit for two to four weeks, stirring occasionally if you want to speed things up. The contents will break down into a dark, crumbly material you can add to potted plants or give to a community garden.

Alternatively, buy a countertop compost bin designed for kitchens. These are small, odor-controlled containers that hold a few weeks' worth of scraps. Some use charcoal filters to reduce smell; others are sealed and airtight. When full, you empty the contents into an outdoor pile or bin to finish decomposing, or into a garden bed where it will break down over time. This method keeps pests and odors out of your kitchen while you collect scraps.

Recognizing finished compost and using it

Finished compost is dark brown or black, crumbly, and smells earthy—like soil after rain. You should not be able to identify the original materials. If you still see recognizable food scraps or leaves, it is not ready; let it sit longer or turn it more often. Finished compost should feel moist but not wet, and it should hold together loosely when you squeeze it.

Use finished compost when ready. Mix it into garden beds at a depth of 2 to 4 inches before planting. Blend it into potting soil at a ratio of one part compost to two or three parts store-bought soil for container plants. Spread it as a 1-inch layer on top of your lawn in spring or fall as a topdressing. You can also layer it in raised beds or use it to fill planting holes when transplanting shrubs or trees. There is no such thing as too much compost; it improves soil structure, drainage, and nutrient content.

Troubleshooting common problems

Pile is not heating up or decomposing slowly: You likely have too much brown material and not enough green. Add more food scraps, grass clippings, or fresh manure. Make sure the pile is at least 3 feet tall and moist. Turn it more often to introduce oxygen.

Pile smells bad (ammonia or rotten eggs): This means it is too wet or has too much green material. Add dry brown materials like shredded paper or leaves, and turn the pile to aerate it. Reduce watering or cover the top to shed rain.

Pests or rodents in the pile: You are likely composting meat, dairy, or oils. Remove these materials and bury food scraps deeper in the pile under brown materials. Use a bin with a tight-fitting lid or hardware cloth bottom to keep out rats and raccoons.

Pile is dry and not breaking down: Add water and turn the pile. In dry climates, cover the top with cardboard or a tarp to hold moisture. Add more green materials if available.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to make compost?

A hot, actively turned pile can produce finished compost in two to three months. A pile you turn less often takes four to six months. A cold pile you leave undisturbed takes six to twelve months. Speed depends on pile size, material mix, moisture, temperature, and how often you turn it. Smaller piles and cooler climates decompose more slowly.

Can I compost in winter?

Yes, but decomposition slows dramatically in cold weather. A pile will not heat up much below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. In cold climates, build your pile in fall, insulate it with straw or leaves, and let it sit through winter. It will finish decomposing in spring and early summer. You can also continue adding kitchen scraps to an outdoor pile year-round; they will break down when temperatures rise.

Do I need to add anything to speed up composting?

No. Finished compost or garden soil added to a new pile introduces microorganisms that are already present in the materials themselves. Commercial compost accelerators are not necessary. A proper mix of brown and green materials, adequate moisture, and oxygen (from turning or pile size) are all you need.

What if my finished compost has seeds or weeds in it?

This usually means your pile did not get hot enough to kill weed seeds. Hot piles (above 140 degrees Fahrenheit) kill most seeds; cold piles do not. If you see weeds sprouting where you used your compost, pull them out or cover the area with mulch. For future batches, make sure your pile is at least 3 feet tall and turn it regularly to generate heat.

Can I use compost from a pile that had diseased plants in it?

No. Pathogens from diseased plants survive in cold piles and can spread disease to new plants. If you accidentally added diseased material, do not use that compost on vegetables or plants you care about. Throw it away or use it only on ornamental plants far from your garden. For future piles, keep diseased plants out entirely.