What You Need to Start a Compost Box

A compost box is a container—plastic, wood, or metal—that holds food scraps and yard waste while they break down into usable compost. You can start one with a container you already own, a purchased bin, or even a pile on the ground. The only real requirement is a place to put it and something to contain the material so it does not spread across your yard or attract pests.

The simplest setup is a plastic storage bin with a lid and holes drilled in the bottom and sides for air flow. A 20-gallon bin works for a single person or small household; larger households benefit from a 30 to 40-gallon bin or multiple boxes. If you want something more permanent, you can buy a ready-made compost tumbler (a rotating barrel), a wooden bin kit, or a commercial composter. None of these are necessary—a basic bin with drainage holes will work just as well.

Key Takeaways

  • Start with any container that has drainage holes and a lid, or drill holes yourself into a plastic bin you already own.
  • Layer brown materials (dry leaves, shredded paper, cardboard) with green materials (food scraps, grass clippings) in roughly equal amounts by volume.
  • Keep the compost as moist as a wrung-out sponge and turn it weekly or every other week to speed decomposition.
  • Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy; it takes two to six months depending on how often you turn it and what you add.
  • Never compost meat, dairy, oils, or pet waste, as these attract pests or introduce harmful bacteria.

Choosing a Location for Your Compost Box

Place your compost box in a spot that gets partial sun—not full shade, which slows decomposition, and not in direct afternoon heat, which can dry it out too quickly. A corner of your yard, against a fence, or under a tree works well. If you are composting indoors or in an apartment, a kitchen counter or under-sink bin works, though it will need more frequent emptying.

Make sure the location has good drainage so water does not pool underneath. If your ground is clay or stays wet, set the bin on a pallet or gravel to lift it slightly. Keep the box away from your house foundation and away from areas where children or pets play, since the decomposing material can attract insects and small animals.

Drilling Holes and Preparing Your Container

If you are using a plastic storage bin, you need to create air flow by drilling or punching holes. Use a drill with a quarter-inch bit to make holes in the bottom of the bin—space them about 4 inches apart in a grid pattern. Drill holes in the sides as well, about 2 inches from the top and bottom, again spacing them 4 inches apart. This allows oxygen to reach the decomposing material, which speeds the process and prevents odors.

If you do not have a drill, a heated nail or a thick screwdriver can punch holes, though it takes longer. Aim for at least 12 to 16 holes total in a 20-gallon bin. The lid does not need holes—it keeps rain out and pests away—but you can drill a few small ones if you want air to circulate from the top.

Layering Your First Materials

Start your compost box with a layer of brown materials—dry leaves, shredded newspaper, cardboard, or straw—about 4 inches deep. Browns are carbon-rich and help create air pockets. Then add a layer of green materials—food scraps, grass clippings, or plant trimmings—about 4 inches deep. Greens are nitrogen-rich and feed the microbes that do the decomposing. Alternate brown and green layers as you add material.

Aim for roughly equal amounts of brown and green by volume. If your compost smells like ammonia or looks slimy, you have too much green; add more brown material. If it is not breaking down and smells musty, you have too much brown; add more green or water. The pile should feel like a wrung-out sponge—moist but not soggy.

What to Add and What to Avoid

Safe to compost: fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and tea bags, crushed eggshells, grass clippings, leaves, shredded paper and cardboard, wood chips, and plant trimmings. Chop large pieces into smaller chunks so they break down faster.

Never compost: meat, fish, or bones (they attract rats and raccoons); dairy products or eggs (they smell and harbor harmful bacteria); oils or fats; pet waste; diseased plants; or weeds with seeds. Avoid glossy or colored paper, which may contain chemicals. Do not add large branches or thick woody stems unless you are willing to wait a year or more for them to decompose.

Turning and Maintaining Your Compost

Turn your compost every 7 to 14 days using a pitchfork or shovel. Pull material from the outside edges toward the center, mixing the cooler outer layers with the hot center. Turning adds oxygen, speeds decomposition, and helps distribute moisture evenly. If you do not turn it, decomposition still happens—it just takes two to three times longer.

Check the moisture level weekly. Squeeze a handful of compost; a few drops of water should come out. If it is dry, add water or more green material. If it is soggy, add brown material or drill additional drainage holes. In hot weather, compost can dry out in days; in cool weather, it may stay moist for weeks.

Knowing When Your Compost Is Ready

Finished compost is dark brown or black, crumbly, and smells earthy—like soil after rain. You should not be able to identify the original materials. If you turn your compost every week and keep it moist, it can be ready in 6 to 8 weeks. If you turn it less often or add material slowly, expect 3 to 6 months. If you never turn it, it may take a year or longer.

You do not have to wait for all the material to fully decompose before using it. You can pull finished compost from the bottom of the bin while still adding fresh material to the top. Sift the compost through a quarter-inch screen or your hands to remove any chunks that are not ready, and return those chunks to the bin to finish breaking down.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a compost box indoors or in an apartment?

Yes. A small bin under the sink or on a kitchen shelf works well if you empty it into a larger outdoor bin once or twice a week. Bokashi bins, which ferment scraps in a sealed container using special bran, are designed for indoor use and produce almost no smell. You can also keep a small countertop bin and take it to a community garden or drop-off site when full.

How do I stop my compost from smelling bad?

Bad smells mean too much green material or not enough air flow. Add brown material (shredded paper or leaves), turn the pile more often, and make sure drainage holes are not clogged. If it smells like rotten eggs or ammonia, it is anaerobic (lacking oxygen). Turn it thoroughly and add brown material when ready.

Will my compost attract rats or raccoons?

Only if you add meat, dairy, or oils. Stick to plant scraps and yard waste, and keep the bin covered with a tight-fitting lid. Bury food scraps under at least 4 inches of brown material so they are not visible. If you live in an area with aggressive wildlife, use a bin with a locking lid or keep it in a shed or garage.

What if I do not have yard waste to add?

You can compost with just kitchen scraps and shredded paper or cardboard. It will take longer because you have fewer browns, but it still works. Save newspaper, junk mail, and cardboard boxes. Shred them by hand or run them through a paper shredder. Aim to add a layer of shredded paper for every two layers of food scraps.

Can I compost in winter?

Yes, but decomposition slows dramatically in cold weather. In freezing temperatures, the pile essentially pauses. Keep adding material if you want, and it will start breaking down again in spring. If you want faster results, insulate the bin with straw or leaves, or move it to a sheltered spot that gets afternoon sun.