Containers That Work for Composting

You do not need to buy a compost bin. Most containers that hold soil, let air reach the pile, and can be opened to remove finished compost will work. A plastic storage tote with holes drilled in the sides, a wooden crate, a wire cylinder, a 5-gallon bucket, or even a corner of your yard enclosed by boards all function as compost bins. The bin's job is to contain your materials and speed decomposition by keeping moisture and temperature stable—any container that does that is doing its job.

The best choice depends on your space, how much compost you make, and whether you want to turn the pile or let it sit. A small bin works for an apartment balcony. A large wooden box works for a suburban yard. A straightforward pile with no container works if you have the space and do not mind the appearance. All three produce usable compost.

Key Takeaways

  • Plastic storage bins, wooden boxes, wire cylinders, and buckets all work as compost containers if they have drainage holes and allow air to reach the pile.
  • A bin should be at least 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet to generate enough heat for faster decomposition, though smaller bins still work—they just take longer.
  • Drainage holes in the bottom and air holes in the sides prevent the pile from becoming waterlogged and smelly.
  • You can build a bin from scrap wood, wire fencing, or pallets for little or no cost, or use containers you already own.

Plastic Bins and Storage Containers

A plastic storage tote is one of the easiest starting points. Drill or cut holes in the bottom for drainage and holes around the sides for air flow—roughly one hole every 4 to 6 inches. A standard 18-gallon tote works for small amounts of kitchen scraps and yard waste. Larger totes (30 to 50 gallons) hold more material and heat up faster, which speeds decomposition.

Plastic bins are portable, stackable, and keep pests out if you use a lid. They dry out faster than open piles, so you will need to water them more often. In hot climates, dark plastic can overheat the pile; light-colored bins or bins in shade work better. Plastic bins typically produce finished compost in 2 to 6 months, depending on how often you turn the pile and the size of the materials you add.

Wooden Boxes and Pallets

A wooden frame is straightforward to build or assemble from scrap lumber. Four boards nailed or bolted into a square (at least 3 feet on each side) create a bin that lets air flow freely and is straightforward to access. Untreated wood lasts 3 to 5 years before rot sets in; treated wood lasts longer but can leach chemicals into your compost, so untreated is the safer choice.

Wooden pallets stacked and wired together make a quick bin with almost no cost if you can find free pallets. Avoid pallets marked with "HT" (heat-treated), which is safe, but watch out for pallets marked "MB" (methyl bromide), a pesticide—those should not go in your compost area. Wooden bins are attractive, sturdy, and let you easily turn the pile by moving compost from one bin to another. They do rot over time, so expect to rebuild every few years.

Wire Cylinders and Fencing

A cylinder made from wire fencing or hardware cloth is one of the cheapest options. Roll a piece of wire fencing into a circle 3 to 4 feet in diameter, find the ends with wire or zip ties, and you have a bin. Wire lets maximum air flow through the pile, which speeds decomposition. It also makes turning the pile straightforward—you straightforward lift the cylinder off and rebuild the pile next to it.

Wire bins offer no protection from pests and do not retain moisture as well as enclosed bins, so the pile dries out faster and needs more water. They also look less finished than wooden or plastic options. Wire works best in yards where appearance matters less and you have space to turn the pile regularly.

Buckets and Small Containers

A 5-gallon bucket with a lid and drainage holes drilled in the bottom works for small-scale composting, especially in apartments or on balconies. Drill holes around the sides too, about one hole per square foot of surface area. A bucket fills quickly and produces a small amount of finished compost every 2 to 3 months if you turn it weekly.

Small containers are best for vermicomposting (composting with worms) or for collecting scraps that you will later add to a larger pile. They are not practical for large households or yards because you would need many buckets to handle the volume. Buckets are portable and fit anywhere, making them ideal for renters or people with limited space.

No-Bin Composting

If you have yard space and do not mind the appearance, you do not need a bin at all. A straightforward pile in a corner of your yard, enclosed by boards or wire to keep it tidy, works just as well. Pile composting takes longer (6 to 12 months) because the outer edges stay cooler, but it requires no building or drilling. You can also dig a hole in your garden bed, bury kitchen scraps directly in the soil, and let them decompose in place—this is called trench composting.

Open piles and trenches are free and require no maintenance beyond adding materials. They attract more pests and smell more than enclosed bins, so they work best in rural areas or large yards away from neighbors. Finished compost from an open pile is ready to use in the same spot, so you do not have to move it.

What to Look for in Any Bin

Regardless of the container you choose, three features matter: drainage, air flow, and size. Drainage holes in the bottom let excess water escape so the pile does not become soggy and smell like rotten eggs. Air holes in the sides let oxygen reach the center of the pile, which bacteria need to break down materials quickly. A bin at least 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet generates enough heat to speed decomposition; smaller bins work but take longer.

A lid or cover keeps rain from waterlogging the pile and keeps pests out, but it is not required. A removable front panel or door makes it easier to remove finished compost from the bottom without disturbing the whole pile. If you plan to turn the pile regularly, access matters more than if you will let it sit undisturbed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a metal trash can as a compost bin?

Yes. Drill holes in the bottom and sides for drainage and air flow, then use it like any other bin. Metal heats up faster than plastic in sunlight, which can speed decomposition, but it also rusts over time. A metal can works well in cool climates where extra heat helps, but may overheat the pile in hot weather.

Do I need to buy a compost bin, or can I make one?

You can make one from scrap wood, wire fencing, or pallets for little to no cost. A straightforward wooden frame or wire cylinder works as well as a store-bought bin. The only tools you need are a drill (for plastic bins), a saw (for wood), and wire or nails to hold it together.

What size bin do I need?

A 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot bin is the minimum for hot composting (fast decomposition). Smaller bins still work but take longer—a 5-gallon bucket can produce compost in 2 to 3 months if you turn it weekly, while a larger bin might finish in 6 to 8 weeks with less effort.

Can I use a bin without drainage holes?

Not for long. Without drainage, water pools at the bottom, the pile becomes anaerobic (lacking oxygen), and it smells bad. If your bin does not have holes, drill them in the bottom and sides before you start composting.

Will a bin with no lid work?

Yes, but rain will waterlog the pile and pests can get in more easily. An open bin works best if you cover it with a tarp during heavy rain and turn the pile regularly to keep it warm and dry. A lid is convenient but not required.