Yes, squirrels eat grass seed, and they will dig up freshly planted seed before it germinates
Squirrels eat grass seed because it is a concentrated source of fat and protein they need, especially in fall and winter. They do not eat the grass itself—they are after the seed. A squirrel will dig shallow holes across a seeded lawn, pull up the seed, and either eat it on the spot or bury it elsewhere. If you have just spread seed and then see small holes with exposed soil, squirrels are almost certainly the cause.
The damage is worst in the first two to three weeks after seeding, when the seed sits near the surface and before grass roots anchor it in place. Once grass germinates and grows, squirrels lose interest because the seed is no longer accessible and the young grass offers them nothing they want.
Key Takeaways
- Squirrels dig up and eat grass seed in the first two to three weeks after you spread it, before germination.
- Physical barriers like netting or burlap laid over the seeded area are the most reliable way to stop them.
- Taste deterrents and motion-activated sprinklers reduce squirrel activity but do not eliminate it completely.
- Raking seed into the soil or using a seed roller pushes seed deeper and makes it harder for squirrels to reach.
- Once grass is actively growing, squirrels stop digging because the seed is no longer exposed or accessible.
Why squirrels target newly seeded lawns
Squirrels are opportunistic foragers. They eat acorns, nuts, berries, and fungi, but they also take advantage of straightforward meals. Grass seed is small, calorie-dense, and sitting right on top of the soil where they can dig it up with minimal effort. A squirrel can cover a large seeded area in a single morning, pulling up dozens of seeds.
The behavior is strongest in fall, when squirrels are building fat reserves for winter. Spring seeding also attracts them, but the pressure is usually lighter because natural food sources are more abundant. If you seed in late summer or early fall, expect more squirrel activity than if you seed in spring.
Physical barriers that actually work
The most effective defense is a physical barrier that prevents squirrels from reaching the seed. Lay bird netting or hardware cloth (quarter-inch mesh) over the seeded area when ready after spreading seed. Anchor the edges with landscape staples, rocks, or soil so squirrels cannot lift it. Leave the barrier in place for two to three weeks—long enough for the seed to germinate and the grass to grow past the point where squirrels can pull it up.
Burlap is another option. It is less visible than netting and allows water and light through, but it is also easier for squirrels to dig under if the edges are not secured. Straw or erosion control blankets designed for seeding offer some protection but are not as reliable as netting because squirrels can still work through them.
The downside of barriers is labor: you have to install them and remove them once the grass is established. But if you have a small to medium lawn, this is the surest way to stop squirrel damage entirely.
Taste deterrents and their limits
Capsaicin-based sprays (the compound that makes hot peppers hot) can reduce squirrel interest in grass seed. Products like Capsaicin Repellent or Critter Ridder are sprayed on the seed or soil before seeding. The idea is that squirrels taste the heat and move on to easier food elsewhere.
These sprays work inconsistently. Some squirrels avoid treated areas; others ignore them. Rain washes the spray away, so you need to reapply after heavy rain. Taste deterrents are best used as part of a layered approach—combine them with a barrier or other method rather than relying on them alone.
Predator urine (coyote or fox) is sold as a squirrel deterrent, but the evidence that it works is weak. Squirrels may avoid an area for a few days, but they usually return once they realize there is no actual predator present.
Motion-activated sprinklers and noise makers
Motion-activated sprinklers startle squirrels and can reduce their visits to your lawn. They work best when placed strategically near the seeded area and when squirrels have not yet learned that the spray is harmless. Over time, squirrels often become accustomed to them and return.
Noise makers, spinning pinwheels, and reflective tape have similar limitations. They may deter squirrels for a week or two, but habituation is common. These tools are most effective when combined with a physical barrier or when squirrel pressure is light.
Planting technique: pushing seed deeper into soil
The easier squirrels can access the seed, the more damage they cause. If you rake seed into the soil or use a seed roller after spreading, you push the seed deeper and make it harder for squirrels to dig up. This does not prevent all damage, but it reduces it significantly.
When you seed, work the seed into the top quarter-inch of soil using a light rake or a seed roller. This keeps the seed in contact with soil moisture (which helps germination) and makes it less visible and accessible to squirrels. The trade-off is slightly more labor during installation, but the payoff is worth it on a larger lawn.
Timing your seeding to reduce squirrel pressure
If you have a choice, seed in spring rather than fall. Squirrel activity is lower in spring because natural food is abundant. Fall seeding, especially in late August or September, coincides with the season when squirrels are most aggressive about gathering food.
Spring seeding also means the grass is established and growing before fall, when squirrel pressure peaks again. If you must seed in fall, combine it with a physical barrier to protect the seed during the critical first few weeks.
When to call a professional
If squirrel damage is severe and widespread, or if you have tried multiple methods without success, a wildlife control service can help. They can assess the squirrel population on your property and recommend exclusion or removal strategies. This is rarely necessary for grass seed alone, but it may be worth considering if squirrels are causing damage to other parts of your property as well.
Before hiring someone, try a combination of physical barriers and planting technique adjustments. Most homeowners find that netting for two to three weeks solves the problem without additional expense.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will squirrels eat grass seed if I mix it with fertilizer?
No. Squirrels are after the seed itself, not the fertilizer. Mixing them does not deter squirrels. The seed is still visible and accessible, so squirrels will still dig it up.
Can I use poison or pesticides to stop squirrels from eating grass seed?
Poisoning squirrels is illegal in most places and is not a practical solution for grass seed. Barriers and deterrents are safer and more effective. If you are considering poison for another reason, contact your local wildlife agency first.
How long do I need to keep netting over my seeded lawn?
Leave netting in place for two to three weeks after seeding, or until the grass is actively growing and the seed is no longer exposed. Once the grass is a half-inch tall, you can safely remove the netting.
Do squirrels eat all types of grass seed?
Squirrels eat most grass seeds, but they prefer larger seeds like those in perennial ryegrass and tall fescue. Fine fescue seeds are smaller and less attractive to them, though squirrels will still eat them if nothing else is available.
Will my grass grow normally if I use a barrier?
Yes. Netting and burlap allow water and light through, so grass germinates and grows normally underneath. Remove the barrier once the grass is established, and it will continue to grow without any setback.