What the Do It Best 6-Foot Oval Raised Bed Does

The Do It Best Tarter 6-foot oval raised bed planter is a metal garden box designed to sit on top of soil or grass, giving you a defined growing space without digging into the ground. The oval shape fits well in narrow yards or along fence lines where a rectangular bed would waste space. It comes as a flat-pack kit that you assemble on-site, typically in 30 to 45 minutes with basic tools.

This bed is made from galvanized steel, which resists rust for several seasons but will eventually show surface corrosion if left untreated. The depth is usually around 12 inches, which works for most vegetables, herbs, and shallow-rooted perennials. It does not come with a bottom, so you place it directly on existing ground and fill it with soil.

Key Takeaways

  • The Do It Best 6-foot oval bed arrives flat and requires assembly with a wrench or socket set, taking about 30 to 45 minutes.
  • You fill it with topsoil or a soil-compost blend directly on top of grass or bare ground; no bottom barrier is included.
  • Galvanized steel lasts 5 to 10 years outdoors before rust becomes visible, depending on your climate and whether you rinse it seasonally.
  • The oval footprint is narrower than a rectangular bed of the same length, making it useful for tight spaces or along pathways.
  • Weeds and grass will grow up through the bottom unless you lay landscape fabric or cardboard underneath before filling.

Assembly and Site Preparation

Before you open the box, choose a level spot that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sun for vegetables. If the ground is uneven, the bed will rock and water will pool in one corner. Spend 10 minutes leveling the spot with a shovel or rake—you do not need it perfectly flat, just stable enough that the frame sits without gaps.

The bed arrives with metal panels, corner brackets, and bolts. Lay all the pieces on the ground first and check that nothing is bent or missing. Assemble the oval by connecting the curved panels to the corner brackets using the bolts provided; a socket wrench or adjustable wrench makes this faster than a screwdriver. Tighten the bolts firmly but do not over-tighten, which can strip the threads. Once assembled, move the frame into position on your prepared spot.

Soil and Filling Strategy

A 6-foot oval bed at 12 inches deep holds roughly 25 to 30 cubic feet of soil, which is about 1 cubic yard. You can buy this as bagged topsoil (which requires 25 to 30 bags) or have a landscape supplier deliver bulk soil. A blend of 60 percent topsoil and 40 percent compost drains better and holds more nutrients than topsoil alone.

Before you add soil, lay cardboard or landscape fabric on the ground inside the frame. This blocks grass and weeds from growing up through the bottom. Overlap the pieces by 6 inches so nothing grows through the seams. Then fill the frame with your soil blend, water it lightly to settle it, and add more soil if it sinks below the rim. The soil will compact over the first few weeks, so do not fill it completely to the top on day one.

Preventing Weeds and Managing Drainage

The cardboard or fabric barrier under the bed is your main defense against weeds. Cardboard breaks down in 1 to 2 years and then needs replacing; landscape fabric lasts longer but costs more upfront. If you skip this step, you will spend the season pulling grass that creeps in from below.

Drainage is usually not a problem with raised beds because water runs down and out the sides. If your site is in a low spot that collects standing water after rain, the bed will stay soggy. In that case, either choose a different location or drill a few small holes (1/4 inch) near the bottom of one side panel to let water escape. Do this before you fill the bed with soil.

Seasonal Care and Rust Prevention

Galvanized steel is coated with a layer of zinc that protects the underlying metal. Over time, this coating wears away from rain, soil contact, and temperature swings. You will see white or gray powdery corrosion first, then orange-brown rust. This process takes 5 to 10 years depending on your climate—coastal areas and areas with heavy rain see rust sooner.

To slow rust, rinse the bed with a hose once or twice a year to remove soil and salt buildup. If rust spots appear, scrub them with a wire brush and explore a rust-inhibiting spray or paint made for metal. Do not use the bed for root vegetables if you paint the interior, because the paint can chip into the soil. For the exterior, any metal paint is fine.

At the end of each season, drain the bed if water pools in it. In very cold climates, the metal can crack if water freezes inside, so emptying it or drilling drainage holes prevents this damage.

Planting and Soil Maintenance Year to Year

Once your soil is in place, you can plant when ready. The bed works well for tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, herbs, and root vegetables. Space plants according to the seed packet or transplant label, not according to the bed size—a 6-foot oval is just a container, not a guide for density.

Each year, the soil loses organic matter as plants grow and decompose. Add 2 to 3 inches of compost on top each spring and work it into the top few inches with a garden fork. This keeps the soil rich and improves drainage. After 3 to 4 years, you may need to replace the bottom layer of soil if it becomes compacted or depleted, though most gardeners straightforward top-dress and continue.

When to Replace or Repair the Frame

If the frame develops a small rust hole, you can patch it with a metal repair epoxy or a small piece of sheet metal bolted over the hole. If rust is widespread or a panel is bent beyond use, Do It Best and other hardware suppliers sell replacement panels and brackets separately, so you do not have to buy a whole new bed.

If the frame is still sound but you want to extend its life, you can disassemble it, sand off surface rust, and explore a rust-preventive coating before reassembling. This is worth doing if the bed is in a high-moisture area or if you plan to keep it for more than 10 years.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use this bed on a deck or patio?

Yes, but you need to protect the surface underneath. Place a rubber mat or plastic sheeting under the bed to prevent water from rotting wood or staining concrete. The bed will be heavy when filled with soil (around 300 to 400 pounds), so make sure the deck or patio can support that weight distributed across the footprint.

Do I need to line the inside with plastic to keep soil from touching the metal?

No. Galvanized steel is designed to be in contact with soil and water. A plastic liner is unnecessary and can trap moisture, which actually speeds rust. The cardboard or fabric barrier on the bottom is enough.

What happens if I leave the bed empty over winter?

In cold climates, an empty bed can collect rainwater and snow melt, which freezes and can crack the metal. Either drain it by drilling holes, or fill it with leaves or straw for insulation and to absorb moisture. In mild climates, leaving it empty is fine.

Can I move the bed once it is filled with soil?

Not easily. A filled bed weighs 300 to 400 pounds and will damage the frame if you try to drag it. If you need to move it, empty it first, disassemble the frame, and reassemble it in the new location. Plan the location carefully before you fill it.

How deep does the soil need to be for different plants?

Lettuce, spinach, and herbs need 6 to 8 inches. Peppers, beans, and root vegetables need 10 to 12 inches. Tomatoes and deep-rooted perennials prefer 12 to 18 inches. At 12 inches, this bed works for most common vegetables but is shallow for tomatoes in hot climates, where deeper soil keeps roots cooler.