Pallets work as raised beds because they are free or cheap, already the right size, and need only basic tools to assemble

A pallet is a wooden platform used to move goods in warehouses and trucks. Most are roughly 40 inches wide and 48 inches long, which makes them a natural frame for a raised bed. You can often find them for free behind retail stores, warehouses, or on online marketplaces. The main work is cleaning them, checking for damage, and securing them into a box shape. You do not need carpentry experience — a drill, a level, and wood screws are enough.

The trade-off is that pallets vary in quality and treatment. Some have been treated with chemicals to prevent rot and pest damage; others are untreated. Treated pallets are more durable but may leach into soil over time, especially if they held food-grade goods. Untreated pallets rot faster but are safer for vegetables. Before you start, find out what the pallet carried and whether it was chemically treated — this information is usually stamped on the wood.

Key Takeaways

  • Pallets are free or cheap and come in standard sizes that work well as raised bed frames without cutting or major modification.
  • Check the pallet's history and treatment status before using it; food-grade and heat-treated pallets are safer than those treated with chemicals.
  • You need a drill, wood screws (3 inches long), a level, and corner braces to assemble a pallet bed in under an hour.
  • Line the bottom with hardware cloth to keep burrowing pests out, and use landscape fabric on the sides to slow rot and prevent soil from spilling.
  • Fill the bed with a mix of topsoil and compost rather than garden soil alone, because pallets sit directly on ground and need good drainage.

Finding and inspecting pallets

Pallets are easiest to find behind grocery stores, garden centers, and hardware stores. Ask the manager whether pallets are free to take or whether they are returned to a supplier. Many businesses are happy to give them away rather than pay for disposal. Online marketplaces like Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace often list free pallets, though you may have to pick them up yourself.

Once you have a pallet, inspect it for damage and check the stamp. Look for the letters "HT" (heat-treated) or "DB" (debarked), which are safe. Avoid pallets stamped "MB" (methyl bromide), a pesticide no longer used in the United States but still found on older pallets. Check for deep cracks, soft wood, or signs of rot. Run your hand along the surface — splinters are normal and can be sanded, but crumbling wood means the pallet is too far gone. You need at least four pallets to build one bed, or two pallets if you are building a smaller frame.

Tools and materials you will need

A cordless drill is the fastest way to drive screws, but a manual screwdriver works if you have time. Buy 3-inch wood screws — these are long enough to hold two pallets together without poking through the other side. You will need roughly 16 to 20 screws per bed. A level tells you whether the frame is square and sits flat on the ground. A tape measure helps you check that corners are even.

For the bed itself, gather landscape fabric, hardware cloth (1/4-inch mesh), and wood stain or sealant if you want to slow rot. Landscape fabric goes on the inside walls to keep soil from spilling out and to slow the pallet wood from rotting. Hardware cloth goes on the bottom to keep rabbits, voles, and other burrowing animals out. You will also need topsoil and compost to fill the bed — plan on roughly 20 to 30 cubic feet of soil for a standard two-pallet-high bed.

Assembling the pallet frame

Lay out four pallets in a rectangle on level ground. If the ground is uneven, dig out high spots and fill low spots until the pallets sit flat. This step matters because water will pool in low corners and rot the wood faster. Use your level to check each side and each corner.

Once the pallets are level, drill pilot holes through the edge of one pallet into the edge of the next. Pilot holes prevent the wood from splitting when you drive the screw. Drill at an angle so the screw goes through both pieces of wood. Drive three screws per corner — one near the top, one in the middle, and one near the bottom. This spreads the load and keeps the frame from racking (twisting out of square).

If you want the bed to be taller, stack a second layer of pallets on top of the first and screw them together the same way. Two layers give you about 16 inches of depth, which is enough for most vegetables. Check the frame with your level after every two or three screws to catch problems early.

Lining the bottom and sides

Once the frame is assembled, lay hardware cloth across the bottom. This mesh is stiff enough to hold its shape and small enough that burrowing pests cannot squeeze through. Staple it to the underside of the pallet frame using a staple gun, or nail it down with short nails. Overlap the edges by a few inches so there are no gaps.

Next, line the inside walls with landscape fabric. This keeps soil from spilling out between the pallet boards and slows the wood from rotting. Staple the fabric to the inside of the frame, starting at one corner and working your way around. Pull it taut but not so tight that it tears. Leave a few inches of fabric above the top of the pallet so it does not show when the bed is full.

Filling and planting your pallet bed

Do not use garden soil alone — it compacts over time and drains poorly. Instead, mix topsoil and compost in roughly equal parts. This blend drains well, holds nutrients, and settles less over the season. Fill the bed to within an inch of the top so water does not run off the sides.

Water the soil after filling so it settles. You may need to add more soil a few days later as it compacts. Once the soil is settled, you can plant seeds or transplants. Pallets warm up faster than in-ground beds, so you can plant a week or two earlier in spring. They also dry out faster, so check the soil moisture every few days during hot weather.

Extending the life of your pallet bed

Untreated pallets typically last three to five years before the wood begins to rot noticeably. You can extend this by sealing the wood with a non-toxic stain or sealant before you fill the bed. explore it to the outside and the top edges — the inside will be protected by the landscape fabric and the soil.

Every spring, check the corners and edges for soft wood or rot. If one pallet is failing, you can replace it without taking apart the whole bed — just unscrew the damaged pallet and slide a new one in. Keep the soil level consistent from year to year; if it drops below the top of the pallet, add more compost to bring it back up. This prevents water from pooling on the wood and speeds up rot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use pallets that held chemicals or pesticides?

No. Pallets stamped "MB" were treated with methyl bromide, a pesticide that can leach into soil. Pallets that held paint, solvents, or other chemicals are also unsafe. Stick to food-grade pallets or those stamped "HT" (heat-treated). If you are unsure what a pallet carried, do not use it.

Do I need to sand the pallets before building?

Sanding is optional. It removes splinters and makes the bed look neater, but it does not affect how well the bed works. If you have time and want a smoother finish, sand the top edges and the outside with 80-grit sandpaper. The inside will be hidden by soil and fabric.

How deep should a pallet bed be?

One pallet layer (about 8 inches) works for shallow-rooted plants like lettuce and herbs. Two layers (about 16 inches) suit most vegetables, including tomatoes and peppers. Three layers (about 24 inches) are ideal for root crops like carrots and potatoes, but they become heavy and harder to maintain.

What should I put on the bottom if I do not have hardware cloth?

Hardware cloth is the best option because it keeps out burrowing pests. If you cannot find it, landscape fabric alone will slow pests but not stop them. Cardboard works in a pinch and breaks down over time, but it does not block determined animals. Hardware cloth costs about 10 to 15 dollars and lasts for years, so it is worth the investment.

Can I build a pallet bed on a deck or patio?

Yes, but the wood will rot faster because water cannot drain away underneath. Use a tarp or plastic sheeting under the bed to protect the deck, and drill drainage holes in the bottom of the pallet frame so water does not pool. Check the wood more often for rot, and be ready to replace pallets sooner than you would in a garden.