The most reliable barrier is fencing buried at least 6 inches underground

Animals destroy raised beds in two ways: they dig from outside to get in, or they climb over the sides. A single fence above ground stops climbers but not diggers. To stop both, you need fencing that goes down as well as up. Bury the bottom 6 to 12 inches of your fence material underground, angled outward slightly so burrowing animals hit it and turn back rather than dig through it.

The height you need depends on what you are protecting against. Rabbits need 2 feet of fence above ground. Deer need 6 to 8 feet, though they rarely jump into a space they cannot see out of, so a 5-foot fence works if your bed is in the open and they cannot approach from higher ground. Groundhogs need 3 feet above ground plus the buried portion. If you have multiple animals, build for the largest one.

Use hardware cloth (a wire mesh with half-inch or quarter-inch openings) rather than chicken wire. Chicken wire tears easily under pressure and does not stop determined diggers. Hardware cloth costs more but lasts years longer and actually blocks small animals. Attach it to wooden frames with staples every 4 inches so animals cannot peel it back.

Key Takeaways

  • Buried fencing stops both digging and climbing animals, and must extend 6 to 12 inches underground angled outward to turn back burrowers.
  • Hardware cloth with half-inch openings is more durable and effective than chicken wire for keeping rabbits and groundhogs out.
  • Electric fencing works well for deer and larger animals but requires a grounded power source and regular maintenance of vegetation contact.
  • Removing food sources and shelter near your beds—fallen fruit, brush piles, dense weeds—makes the area less attractive to animals in the first place.
  • Motion-activated sprinklers and lights deter some animals temporarily but work best combined with physical barriers rather than alone.

Electric fencing for deer and larger animals

If you have deer, a single strand of electric fencing at 4 to 5 feet high often works better than a tall solid fence. Deer test barriers with their noses first. When they touch the wire and get shocked, they learn to avoid the area. The fence does not need to be solid—just visible and electrified.

Electric fencing requires a charger (plug-in or battery-powered), grounding rods driven into moist soil, and regular checking that vegetation is not touching the wire and draining the charge. A battery charger costs $40 to $150 and lasts several seasons. The wire itself is cheap. Test the fence weekly with a voltage meter or by touching it yourself (you will feel a tingle, not pain) to confirm it is working.

This approach works less well for rabbits and groundhogs, which are small enough to slip under a single strand. For those animals, combine electric fencing with buried hardware cloth around the bed perimeter, or use the buried fence alone.

Removing shelter and food sources nearby

Animals live where they find cover and food. A raised bed next to a brush pile, dense weeds, or fallen fruit is an straightforward target. Clear a 10-foot radius around your beds of brush, leaf piles, and tall weeds where rabbits and groundhogs hide. Remove fallen fruit and vegetables when ready—they attract deer, raccoons, and other wildlife.

If you compost near your beds, use a sealed bin rather than an open pile. Open compost attracts rodents and bears. Store pet food indoors and do not leave water bowls outside overnight, as they draw raccoons and other animals.

These steps alone will not stop a determined animal, but they make your beds less attractive compared to other food sources in the neighborhood. Combined with fencing, they are much more effective than fencing alone.

Motion-activated sprinklers and lights

Motion-activated sprinklers startle animals when they approach and can deter deer, raccoons, and rabbits for a time. They work best in the evening and early morning when animals are most active. The downside is that animals learn the pattern—after a few weeks, many will test the sprinkler and realize it does not hurt them.

Motion-activated lights have the same limitation. They work better on animals that are naturally shy, like deer, than on bold animals like raccoons. Use these tools as a temporary measure or as a second layer of defense alongside fencing, not as your only protection.

Both require a water source (for sprinklers) and electricity, and both need to be repositioned every few weeks so animals do not predict where they will set up. If you use them, combine them with a physical barrier for reliable results.

Netting and row covers for smaller animals

For rabbits and groundhogs, lightweight netting or row covers draped directly over plants can work if you find the edges to the ground with soil, stakes, or boards. The animal cannot push through without lifting an edge, and if the edges are sealed, it cannot get in.

This method works best for young plants or for protecting specific rows within a larger bed. It does not work for tall plants like tomatoes or for an entire season, because you have to remove the cover to water and harvest. Use it as a temporary shield during the most vulnerable weeks after planting, then switch to fencing once plants are established.

Make sure the netting is not so tight that it damages plants or prevents water and light from reaching them. Drape it loosely and check underneath regularly for trapped animals.

Fencing materials that work and those that do not

Hardware cloth is the best choice for rabbits and groundhogs because it does not rust quickly, does not tear easily, and the small openings prevent animals from squeezing through. Galvanized hardware cloth lasts 10 to 15 years. Stainless steel lasts longer but costs more.

Chicken wire is cheaper but fails faster. Animals can tear it, and it rusts within a few years in wet climates. Use it only for temporary protection or for animals you know are not aggressive diggers.

Solid wood or plastic fencing stops climbing but does nothing for digging. If you use it, bury hardware cloth around the base or install an underground barrier separately. Vinyl fencing is durable but expensive and does not stop digging animals unless you add buried mesh.

For deer, a straightforward wire or rope fence works because deer respect barriers they can see. Solid fencing is not necessary and is much more expensive. A 6-foot wire fence costs a fraction of what a solid wood fence costs and works just as well.

Protecting specific plants within the bed

If you cannot fence the entire bed, you can protect individual plants with cages or collars. A tomato cage with hardware cloth wrapped around it stops rabbits from eating the base of the plant. A PVC pipe collar sunk 2 inches into the soil and rising 12 inches above it protects young seedlings from groundhogs.

These methods work for a few plants but become impractical if you are protecting dozens. They also do not stop deer, which can reach over most plant-level barriers. Use individual protection for your most valuable plants while working on a larger fence for the bed itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use chicken wire instead of hardware cloth to save money?

Chicken wire is cheaper upfront but fails faster and does not stop determined diggers. If you have only rabbits and the fence is temporary, chicken wire works. For groundhogs or long-term protection, hardware cloth costs more but lasts years longer and actually stops the animals. The total cost over time is usually lower with hardware cloth.

How deep do I need to bury the fence to stop groundhogs?

Groundhogs dig down 3 to 4 feet, so burying 6 to 12 inches and angling the fence outward works by making them hit the barrier and turn back rather than dig through it. They rarely dig straight down under a fence if the fence is angled. Twelve inches is more reliable than 6 inches, especially in soft soil.

Will deer jump over a 5-foot fence?

Deer can jump 6 to 8 feet high, but they rarely jump into a space they cannot see out of or approach from higher ground. A 5-foot fence works in open areas where the bed is visible and the deer cannot approach from uphill. In a wooded yard or near a slope, use 6 to 8 feet or add an electric strand at the top.

Do I need to turn off electric fencing in winter?

You can leave it on year-round, but many people turn it off in winter when animal activity is lower and snow may short the fence to ground. In spring, clear vegetation from the wire and test the voltage before turning it back on. Battery chargers should be brought indoors in freezing weather to preserve battery life.

What if animals are already in my raised bed—how do I get them out?

Open the fence or remove the cover and give the animal a clear escape route. Do not corner it. Most animals will leave on their own if given a way out. Once it is gone, seal the opening and check for burrows or entry points you missed. If the animal returns, you likely have a gap in your fence or an underground tunnel you did not see.