Plants that grow well with strawberries

Strawberries thrive alongside plants that don't compete for the same nutrients or space, and some actually improve soil or repel pests that damage berries. The best companions are shallow-rooted herbs, nitrogen-fixing plants, and low-growing vegetables that won't shade the strawberry plants. Borage, thyme, lettuce, spinach, and marigolds all grow successfully in the same bed without crowding strawberries or stealing water meant for the fruit.

The key is choosing plants with different root depths and growth habits. Strawberries have fibrous roots that spread horizontally in the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. If you plant deep-rooted vegetables like carrots or beets nearby, they'll reach down below the strawberry roots and won't fight for the same water and nutrients. Shallow herbs like thyme and oregano stay compact and won't overshadow the low-growing berry plants.

Key Takeaways

  • Borage, thyme, oregano, and marjoram are herbs that grow well with strawberries and attract pollinators without competing for space.
  • Lettuce, spinach, and arugula grow in the shade cast by strawberry leaves and use different soil depths, so both crops thrive in the same bed.
  • Marigolds and nasturtiums planted near strawberries deter aphids and spider mites that damage fruit, and their flowers are edible.
  • Avoid planting brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale) or fennel with strawberries because they release compounds that slow strawberry growth.
  • Plant companions at the edges or between strawberry rows so you can harvest berries without stepping on or damaging neighboring plants.

Herbs that pair well with strawberries

Borage is one of the best strawberry companions. It grows to about 2 feet tall, so plant it at the north edge of the bed where it won't shade the berries. Borage flowers attract bees and other pollinators, which increases strawberry fruit set. The plant also draws beneficial insects that prey on aphids and mites. Borage self-seeds readily, so deadhead spent flowers if you don't want seedlings everywhere next year.

Thyme and oregano are low-growing perennial herbs that stay under 12 inches tall. Both spread slowly across the soil surface and won't choke out strawberry plants. They prefer drier conditions than strawberries, so plant them slightly uphill or at the bed's edge where water drains faster. Thyme flowers attract pollinators, and both herbs repel some pest insects. They're also edible, so you harvest two crops from one bed.

Marjoram works the same way as oregano—compact, drought-tolerant once established, and attractive to beneficial insects. Plant it in spring so it has time to root before summer heat. All three of these herbs are perennials in most climates, meaning they'll come back year after year without replanting.

Leafy greens and vegetables to grow between strawberry plants

Lettuce and spinach are ideal bed-mates because they grow in the partial shade created by strawberry leaves and mature in 4 to 6 weeks. Plant them in early spring before strawberries leaf out heavily, or in late summer for a fall crop. Both are shallow-rooted and won't compete with strawberries for deep soil nutrients. Harvest outer leaves as needed, and the plants keep producing without disturbing the berry plants around them.

Arugula grows even faster than lettuce—ready to pick in 3 to 4 weeks—and tolerates the dappled shade under strawberry foliage. It's peppery and adds flavor to salads. Plant successive crops every 2 to 3 weeks from spring through early fall for continuous harvest. Like lettuce and spinach, arugula roots stay shallow and won't interfere with strawberry growth.

Radishes mature in 25 to 30 days and break up compacted soil as they grow, which benefits strawberry roots. Plant them in spring or fall when temperatures stay cool. Their quick harvest means the bed space opens up before strawberries need it most in summer. Avoid planting radishes directly under strawberry plants; instead, tuck them into gaps at the bed's edges.

Flowers that protect strawberries from pests

Marigolds are the classic strawberry companion. Their strong scent repels spider mites, aphids, and some beetles that feed on strawberry leaves and fruit. Plant marigolds around the bed's perimeter or between strawberry rows. They grow 12 to 24 inches tall depending on the variety, so choose dwarf types (8 to 12 inches) if space is tight. Marigold petals are edible and slightly peppery—you can harvest them for salads or tea.

Nasturtiums also repel aphids and spider mites, and they attract hoverflies, whose larvae eat aphid colonies. Nasturtiums prefer cooler weather and can struggle in hot summers, so plant them in spring or fall. They grow as trailing vines or compact mounds depending on the variety. The flowers and leaves are both edible with a peppery taste, and the seed pods can be pickled like capers.

Calendula (pot marigold) attracts pollinators and beneficial insects while repelling some pests. It's not as aggressive a pest deterrent as regular marigolds, but it adds color and edible petals to the bed. Calendula tolerates partial shade and cool weather, making it useful in spring and fall plantings.

Plants to avoid near strawberries

Brassicas—cabbage, broccoli, kale, and Brussels sprouts—release compounds into the soil that inhibit strawberry growth. Even though they're vegetables, they're poor companions in a shared bed. If you want to grow brassicas, plant them in a separate raised bed or a different area of the garden.

Fennel secretes allelopathic compounds that slow the growth of most plants nearby, including strawberries. It's a beautiful plant with feathery foliage, but it's best grown alone or far from the strawberry bed. The same applies to tomatoes and potatoes—they're heavy feeders that compete with strawberries for nitrogen and potassium, and they're prone to diseases that can spread to berries.

Mint is tempting because it's an herb, but it spreads aggressively through underground runners and will eventually take over the bed. If you want mint nearby, grow it in a separate pot or a contained area where its roots can't reach the strawberry bed.

Layout tips for a strawberry companion bed

Plant tall companions (borage, marigolds over 12 inches) on the north side of the bed so they don't shade strawberries during the growing season. Strawberries need 6 to 8 hours of direct sun daily to produce sweet fruit, and shade reduces both yield and flavor.

Space strawberry plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows, leaving 18 to 24 inches between rows. This gives you room to plant herbs and flowers in the gaps without crowding. Shallow-rooted greens like lettuce can grow directly under strawberry foliage once the berries are established, but plant them before the strawberry canopy fills in.

Water the entire bed evenly—strawberries need consistent moisture, about 1 to 2 inches per week depending on rainfall and temperature. Most companion herbs and greens tolerate the same watering schedule, though thyme and oregano prefer slightly drier conditions. If you're growing thyme or oregano, plant them at the bed's edge where water drains faster, or mulch around strawberries but leave the herbs unmulched.

Timing your plantings for continuous harvest

Plant strawberries in early spring (March to April in most zones) or in fall (August to September). Once they're established, you can succession-plant quick-growing companions around them. Lettuce, spinach, and arugula go in as soon as soil can be worked in spring, then again in late summer for fall crops. Borage and perennial herbs go in at the same time as strawberries so they're established by the time berries start producing.

Marigolds and nasturtiums are frost-tender annuals—plant them after the last spring frost when soil has warmed. In most zones, that's mid-May. They'll flower all summer and into fall until the first hard frost. If you live in a warm climate where frost is rare, you can plant them in fall for winter and spring blooms.

Radishes are a spring and fall crop. Plant them in early spring for a late-spring harvest, then again in late summer (6 to 8 weeks before your first fall frost) for a fall crop. This timing means radishes are out of the bed before strawberries need maximum space in mid-summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant garlic or onions with strawberries?

Garlic and onions are possible companions, but they're not ideal. Both are heavy feeders that compete with strawberries for nitrogen. If you want to grow them together, plant garlic in fall (it needs a cold period to develop cloves) and harvest it in early summer before strawberries peak. Spring onions mature quickly and can be harvested before they compete seriously with berries.

Will companion plants reduce my strawberry yield?

No, if you choose the right companions and space them correctly. Herbs like borage and thyme actually increase yield by attracting pollinators. Lettuce and spinach use different soil depths and shade, so they don't reduce berry production. The key is avoiding heavy feeders and plants that release growth-inhibiting compounds.

Can I plant strawberries with beans or peas?

Yes. Beans and peas are nitrogen-fixing plants that actually improve soil for strawberries. However, they grow tall and can shade berries if not managed. Plant pole beans or peas on a trellis at the north edge of the bed, or use bush varieties and keep them trimmed back so strawberries get 6 to 8 hours of direct sun.

What if I want to grow multiple types of herbs with strawberries?

You can mix herbs as long as you account for their mature size and water needs. Thyme, oregano, and marjoram are all drought-tolerant and can grow together at the bed's edges. Borage needs more space and should go on the north side. Keep moisture-loving herbs like basil away from thyme and oregano, or plant them in separate zones of the bed where you can water them differently.

Do I need to fertilize the bed differently if I'm growing companions?

Strawberries need balanced fertilizer (roughly equal nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium). Most companion herbs and greens are light feeders, so they won't deplete soil faster than strawberries alone. If you're growing nitrogen-fixing beans or peas, you may need less nitrogen fertilizer overall. Test your soil in spring to know what you're starting with, then adjust based on plant growth.