Cardboard, landscape fabric, and hardware cloth each solve different problems

The material you line your raised bed with determines what grows there, how long the bed lasts, and whether you spend money fighting weeds and pests. Cardboard blocks weeds cheaply and breaks down in two to three years, feeding the soil as it goes. Landscape fabric lasts five to ten years, lets water through, and stops perennial weeds but not seeds already in your soil. Hardware cloth (a metal mesh) protects against burrowing rodents but adds cost and complexity. Most gardeners use one material or a combination, depending on what threatens their garden most.

The choice depends on three things: what's underneath your bed, what pests live in your area, and how long you want the barrier to last. A bed sitting on lawn needs something to kill grass. A bed over bare soil needs mainly weed control. A bed in an area with gophers or voles needs metal protection. Understanding what each material does — and what it doesn't — saves you money and frustration.

Key Takeaways

  • Cardboard is the cheapest option, blocks most weeds for two to three years, and improves soil as it decays, but won't stop burrowing rodents.
  • Landscape fabric lasts longer than cardboard, prevents most weeds, and allows water and nutrients to pass through, but costs more and requires proper installation.
  • Hardware cloth stops gophers and voles but must be buried at least six inches deep and can rust or shift over time, adding labor and expense.
  • Combination linings — cardboard plus fabric, or fabric plus hardware cloth — solve multiple problems but require careful layering to work properly.
  • The material you choose should match the specific threats in your location and soil conditions, not just what worked for someone else's garden.

Cardboard: Cheap, effective, and temporary

Cardboard is the fastest and least expensive way to block weeds and grass under a new raised bed. Lay it flat, overlapping the edges by at least six inches, and wet it down so it stays in place while you fill the bed. It kills the grass and weeds beneath it by blocking light, and as it breaks down over two to three years, it adds organic matter to your soil.

The catch is that cardboard only lasts two to three years in moist soil. After that, it disintegrates and stops blocking anything. If you have perennial weeds — dandelions, bindweed, quackgrass — they'll push through before the cardboard is gone. Cardboard also does nothing to stop burrowing pests like gophers or voles. Use it when you're starting fresh on lawn or bare soil, and when rodents aren't a problem in your area.

Remove any tape, plastic windows, or glossy coating before laying cardboard down. Plain kraft cardboard and corrugated cardboard both work. Avoid cardboard that's been treated with fungicide or that held produce treated with pesticides — check the box for stamps or labels. Wet cardboard is easier to work with than dry, and it settles faster.

Landscape fabric: Longer-lasting weed control

Landscape fabric (also called weed cloth) is a synthetic or natural material that blocks weeds while letting water, air, and nutrients pass through. It lasts five to ten years depending on quality and sun exposure, and it handles perennial weeds better than cardboard because it doesn't break down. Lay it flat across the bottom of your bed, overlapping seams by at least six inches, and pin it down with landscape staples or rocks so it doesn't shift when you fill the bed.

Landscape fabric comes in different weights. Heavier fabric (3 to 4 ounces per square yard) blocks more weeds and lasts longer, but costs more and is harder to work with. Lighter fabric (1 to 2 ounces) is cheaper and easier to install but tears more easily and may not stop determined weeds. Most gardeners find 2 to 3 ounces a good balance.

The main drawback is that landscape fabric doesn't stop seeds already in your soil from sprouting. If your soil is full of weed seeds, you'll still pull weeds — just fewer of them. Fabric also doesn't stop burrowing pests. Over time, soil builds up on top of the fabric, and weeds can root into that soil layer and work their way through the fabric. Plan to replace it every five to ten years, or sooner if you see weeds pushing through regularly.

Hardware cloth: Protection against rodents

Hardware cloth is a metal mesh (usually galvanized steel) with holes roughly one-quarter inch across. It stops gophers, voles, and ground squirrels from burrowing up into your bed. Lay it flat on the ground, then fold the edges up the sides of your raised bed and staple or nail it to the frame. Bury the bottom edge at least six inches deep in the soil outside the bed, or fold it outward under the frame so animals can't dig under it.

Hardware cloth is expensive — a 4-by-8-foot sheet costs $30 to $50 — and installation is labor-intensive. It also rusts over time, especially in wet climates, and can shift or tear if you dig or work the soil roughly. Many gardeners use hardware cloth only on the bottom of the bed, not the sides, to save money and labor. If you do this, bury the edges deep enough that burrowing animals can't reach under it.

Hardware cloth works best in areas where gophers or voles are a known problem. If you've never seen these pests in your garden, you may not need it. Ask neighbors or your local extension office whether burrowing rodents are common in your area before you invest in hardware cloth.

Combination linings for multiple problems

Many gardeners layer materials to solve more than one problem at once. A common combination is cardboard on the bottom (to kill grass and add organic matter) plus landscape fabric on top (to extend weed control after the cardboard breaks down). Lay the cardboard first, overlapping edges, then lay the fabric on top and staple it to the frame. Water both layers so they settle together.

Another option is landscape fabric on the bottom plus hardware cloth underneath if you have rodent problems. Lay the hardware cloth first, bury the edges, then lay the fabric on top. This protects against both burrowing pests and weeds. The downside is cost and complexity — you're paying for two materials and doing twice the installation work.

If you use a combination, make sure each layer overlaps properly and is secured so it doesn't shift when you fill the bed. Gaps between layers let weeds and pests find their way through. Staple or pin everything down before you add soil.

What not to use and why

Plastic sheeting (like black plastic or visqueen) blocks weeds and pests but also blocks water. Rain runs off instead of soaking in, and your soil dries out faster. Plastic also breaks down in sunlight and leaves fragments in your soil. Avoid it unless you're lining a temporary bed and plan to water by hand or drip line.

Newspaper works like cardboard but tears more easily and breaks down faster. If you use it, lay it at least six sheets thick and overlap the edges. It's a good free option if you have old newspapers on hand, but it's not worth buying.

Treated wood, old carpet, or rubber mulch may contain chemicals that leach into your soil. Stick with materials designed for gardens or plain cardboard and fabric.

Installation tips that make a difference

Overlap all seams by at least six inches, whether you're using cardboard or fabric. Weeds and pests find gaps. Wet cardboard and fabric as you lay them so they settle and stay in place. find everything with landscape staples, rocks, or the frame itself before you fill the bed — once soil is on top, you can't adjust anything.

If your bed is on lawn, mow the grass short before you lay down cardboard or fabric. This gives the material better contact with the soil. If the ground is very uneven, rake it roughly level first. Bumps and hollows let water pool and create gaps where weeds can push through.

For hardware cloth, wear gloves — the edges are sharp. Bury or fold the bottom edge so it extends at least six inches beyond the bed frame. Burrowing animals are persistent, and a shallow edge won't stop them.

How long each material actually lasts

Cardboard lasts two to three years in moist soil, sometimes longer in dry climates. It breaks down faster if you turn the soil frequently or if you have a lot of earthworms and microbes working it. In a no-dig bed where you add compost on top each year, cardboard may last closer to four years.

Landscape fabric lasts five to ten years depending on quality, sun exposure, and how much you disturb it. Heavier fabric lasts longer. Fabric in full sun breaks down faster than fabric in shade. If you walk on it or dig through it regularly, it tears and fails sooner.

Hardware cloth lasts ten to fifteen years if it's galvanized steel and you live in a dry climate. In wet or coastal areas, it rusts faster and may fail in five to ten years. Stainless steel hardware cloth lasts longer but costs two to three times as much.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use cardboard and landscape fabric together?

Yes. Lay cardboard first to kill grass and add organic matter, then lay landscape fabric on top to extend weed control after the cardboard breaks down. Overlap both layers by at least six inches and find them before filling the bed. This combination is popular because it's cheap upfront and lasts longer than cardboard alone.

Do I need to line the sides of my raised bed?

No. Lining the bottom stops weeds and pests from coming up from below. The sides of the bed frame itself stop soil from spilling out. Line the sides only if you're using untreated wood and want to prevent soil from touching the wood, or if you're using hardware cloth to stop rodents from burrowing in from the sides.

What if I'm building a bed directly on concrete or pavement?

You don't need a bottom liner. Concrete blocks weeds and pests naturally. You can skip the lining entirely and just fill the bed with soil. If you want to add cardboard or fabric anyway for extra insurance, it won't hurt, but it's not necessary.

How do I know if I need hardware cloth for rodents?

Ask your neighbors whether they've had gopher or vole problems, or contact your local extension office. If you've never seen these pests in your garden and they're not common in your area, you probably don't need hardware cloth. If you do have them, hardware cloth is worth the cost and effort.

Can I replace the lining later if I change my mind?

It's difficult but possible. If you want to add hardware cloth after the bed is built and filled, you'd have to empty the bed, remove the old lining, install the new one, and refill. It's much easier to get the lining right the first time. If you're unsure, start with cardboard or fabric and upgrade to hardware cloth later if rodents become a problem.