Yes, gophers will eat tomato plants, and they cause damage in two ways
Gophers eat the roots, stems, and fruits of tomato plants, and they also tunnel through garden beds in ways that expose roots to air and kill plants indirectly. A single gopher can destroy a tomato plant by gnawing on the stem below soil level, which cuts off water and nutrients faster than the plant can recover. They also pull seedlings down into their tunnels from below, so a healthy transplant can vanish overnight.
The damage happens because gophers are burrowing rodents that spend most of their time underground, eating roots and bulbs as they tunnel. Tomato plants are attractive to them because the roots are soft and nutritious, and the fruits that touch soil are straightforward meals. If you see a tomato plant suddenly wilt despite wet soil, or find a seedling missing with a hole in the ground where it was, a gopher is the likely cause.
Key Takeaways
- Gophers eat tomato roots, stems, and low-hanging fruit, and can kill a plant by severing the stem underground.
- Gopher tunnels expose roots to air and dry them out, which kills plants even if the gopher does not eat them directly.
- Young transplants and seedlings are more vulnerable than established plants because their root systems are smaller and easier to sever.
- Physical barriers like wire cages around individual plants or raised beds with buried mesh are the most reliable way to stop gopher damage.
- Trapping is effective but requires patience and correct placement in active tunnels; poison and repellents have mixed results.
How gophers damage tomato plants below the soil
Gophers do not dig randomly. They create a network of main tunnels and branch tunnels, and they travel these routes regularly to feed. When a tomato plant sits in their path, the gopher will gnaw on the root system as it passes. If the main root or the stem just below soil level is cut, the plant cannot move water upward, and it wilts and dies within days even if the soil is wet.
The tunneling itself causes a second kind of damage. As gophers move soil, they create air pockets around roots. Roots need contact with moist soil to absorb water; air pockets dry them out. A plant can die from root desiccation without the gopher ever taking a bite. This is why you sometimes find a tomato plant that looks healthy one day and is completely dead the next, with no visible wound.
Gophers also pull seedlings and small transplants down into their tunnels. They grab the stem at soil level and drag the plant underground. This happens so fast that the plant straightforward vanishes, and you are left with a hole. Established plants with thick stems are harder to pull down, but young plants with tender growth are vulnerable.
Which tomato plants are most at risk
Seedlings and young transplants are the highest-risk group because their stems are thin and their root systems are small. A gopher can sever a seedling's root with one bite, and the plant will not recover. Transplants in their first month after planting are also vulnerable because the roots have not yet grown deep enough to escape the main tunnel zone.
Established tomato plants with thick stems and deep root systems are harder for gophers to kill outright, but they are not safe. A gopher will still tunnel under them and eat the roots, and the damage accumulates. A plant that has lost 30 or 40 percent of its root system will produce fewer fruits and may wilt during hot days even when soil moisture is adequate.
Cherry and smaller heirloom varieties are sometimes more attractive to gophers because the fruits are easier to bite into. Large beefsteak tomatoes are less often eaten whole, but the roots are equally vulnerable.
Physical barriers that actually stop gophers
Wire cages are the most reliable defense. Bury a cage of 1/4-inch hardware cloth (wire mesh) around each plant before planting or when ready after transplanting. The cage should extend at least 12 inches below the soil surface and 6 inches above. Gophers cannot chew through hardware cloth, and they will not dig deeper than necessary to find easier food elsewhere.
Raised beds with buried mesh are effective for protecting multiple plants at once. Line the bottom and sides of the bed with 1/4-inch hardware cloth before filling with soil. Bury the mesh 12 inches deep around the perimeter so gophers cannot tunnel under the edge. This method works well if you are building a new bed, but retrofitting an existing bed is labor-intensive.
Individual plant cages are easier to install than whole-bed barriers. You can buy pre-made gopher cages or make them from hardware cloth rolled into a cylinder. The key is burying the bottom edge deep enough that a gopher cannot dig under it. Shallow cages that sit mostly above soil are less effective because gophers will tunnel around them.
Trapping gophers in active tunnels
Trapping works, but it requires finding the right tunnel and setting the trap correctly. Gophers use main tunnels repeatedly, and these are the best places to set traps. To find a main tunnel, probe the soil with a metal rod or screwdriver near the plant. Main tunnels are usually 6 to 12 inches below the surface and feel hollow when you push through. Branch tunnels are shallower and more scattered.
Once you locate a main tunnel, dig down carefully and set a snap trap or scissor trap across the tunnel opening. Bait it with peanut butter, raisins, or a piece of carrot. Cover the hole loosely with soil so light does not enter the tunnel; gophers avoid bright openings. Check the trap daily. A trap in an active tunnel usually catches a gopher within 24 to 48 hours, but it may take several days.
One gopher removed does not mean the problem is solved. Other gophers may move into the same territory, especially in spring and fall when populations are active. If you see new mounds or wilting plants a few weeks after trapping, another gopher has arrived and you will need to trap again.
Why poison and repellents have limited success
Poison baits (usually strychnine or zinc phosphide) do kill gophers, but they are not reliable for protecting tomato plants. Gophers eat a wide variety of roots and bulbs, so they may not take the bait if other food is available. Poison also takes time to work, and a gopher may eat your tomato roots while the poison is still in its system. In some states, certain poisons are restricted or banned, so check local regulations before buying.
Repellents—sprays, granules, and ultrasonic devices—have mixed results at best. Castor oil-based repellents may deter gophers temporarily, but they wash away with rain and need frequent reapplication. Ultrasonic devices have no scientific evidence supporting their effectiveness. Gophers are driven by hunger and the need to tunnel, not by discomfort, so repellents rarely stop them for long.
If you choose to use poison, place it directly in active tunnels rather than on the soil surface. Gophers spend most of their time underground, so surface baits are less likely to be found. Always follow label instructions and keep poison away from children and pets.
Preventing gophers from moving into your garden
Gophers are attracted to gardens because they are full of roots and bulbs. You cannot make your garden unattractive to them without removing plants, but you can make it harder for them to establish. Keep the garden free of weeds and volunteer plants that gophers eat, because a gopher that finds abundant food will stay and dig more tunnels.
Remove debris piles, dense mulch, and tall grass around the garden perimeter. Gophers use these areas as cover while they move between tunnels. A clear border makes it easier to spot new mounds and tunnels early, when damage is still small.
If gophers are active in your neighborhood, install barriers before planting rather than waiting for damage to appear. A plant protected from the start will never be at risk, whereas a plant damaged by a gopher may not recover even after the gopher is removed.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a tomato cage to protect plants from gophers?
A standard tomato cage protects the above-ground part of the plant but does nothing to stop gophers from eating the roots below soil. You need a cage made of hardware cloth that extends 12 inches underground to be effective. A tomato cage alone will not prevent gopher damage.
What if I see a gopher mound in my garden?
A mound means a gopher is actively tunneling in that area. Probe nearby soil to find the main tunnel, then set a trap or install a barrier around vulnerable plants. Do not wait—active gophers will continue to tunnel and eat roots. The sooner you trap or exclude them, the less damage they will cause.
Do gophers eat tomato leaves and stems above ground?
Gophers rarely climb or eat above-ground plant parts because they are burrowing animals that spend most of their time underground. Damage to leaves and stems is usually from other pests like hornworms or beetles. Gopher damage is almost always below soil level.
Will my tomato plant survive if a gopher eats some of the roots?
A plant can survive losing some roots, but it will be stressed and produce fewer fruits. If the main root or the stem just below soil is severed, the plant will wilt and die within days. If only side roots are eaten, the plant may recover slowly, especially if you water regularly and the weather is cool.
How long does it take for a gopher to kill a tomato plant?
If the gopher severs the main stem below soil, the plant can die within 24 to 48 hours because water cannot move upward. If only roots are eaten, the plant may decline over a week or two. Seedlings can be pulled underground and killed in minutes.