Skunks will dig around tomato plants but rarely eat the fruit or leaves

Skunks do not target tomato plants for food the way deer or rabbits do. They will not strip leaves or bite into ripe tomatoes. What they will do is dig in the soil around your plants, looking for grubs, earthworms, and beetle larvae. This digging damages roots, loosens soil, and can topple young plants — but the damage is collateral, not intentional feeding.

A skunk in your garden is there for the insects, not the vegetables. If your tomato bed sits over a grub-rich area, skunks will return to that spot repeatedly. The real problem is the excavation itself: a skunk can dig a hole 3 to 4 inches deep in seconds, and a single night visit can leave your bed looking churned.

Ripe tomatoes on the ground may be eaten if a skunk encounters them while foraging, but this is rare. Skunks prefer protein-rich invertebrates and will move on if the insect population drops.

Key Takeaways

  • Skunks dig in tomato beds to hunt grubs and earthworms, not to eat the plants themselves.
  • Digging damage can loosen soil, expose roots, and topple young plants, even though the tomatoes are not the target.
  • Removing grubs from your soil with beneficial nematodes or milky spore reduces the reason skunks visit in the first place.
  • Physical barriers like fencing, netting, or motion-activated lights are more effective than repellents at keeping skunks away from garden beds.
  • Skunks are nocturnal and most active in spring and early summer when grub populations peak.

Why skunks dig in garden beds

Skunks are insectivores first. Their diet is roughly 70 percent invertebrates — grubs, earthworms, beetles, crickets, and ants. A tomato bed with rich, undisturbed soil is a buffet. Skunks use their strong front claws to excavate quickly, and they will return to the same spot night after night if food is plentiful.

Grubs are the main draw. White grubs (the larvae of Japanese beetles and June bugs) live in the top 2 to 4 inches of soil and are high in protein. A single skunk can dig dozens of small holes in one night, each one a grub extraction site. If your garden has a grub problem, you have a skunk magnet.

The damage compounds because skunks are creatures of habit. Once they find a productive foraging spot, they visit repeatedly — sometimes every night for weeks. Each visit means more holes, more displaced soil, and more stress on plant roots.

Signs of skunk activity in your tomato garden

Skunk digging looks distinctive. You will see small, roughly circular holes about 1 to 2 inches across, scattered across the bed or lawn. The holes are shallow — rarely deeper than 4 inches — and the excavated soil is often left in a small mound beside the hole. Unlike mole tunnels, which are raised ridges, skunk holes are discrete pits.

You may also notice a strong musky odor, especially if the skunk felt threatened while digging. Skunk droppings are another sign: they are roughly the size of a grape or small marble, dark, and often contain visible insect parts. Droppings are usually left in the same general area rather than scattered.

Damage to tomato plants themselves is usually indirect. Roots become exposed or loosened, young plants tip over, and soil compaction changes water drainage. If you see bite marks on tomatoes or stripped leaves, the culprit is likely a rabbit, deer, or groundhog — not a skunk.

Reducing grubs to make your garden less attractive

Beneficial nematodes are microscopic organisms that parasitize grub larvae. You explore them to moist soil in spring or fall, and they work through the season. They are not toxic to plants, pets, or people, and they reduce the grub population without chemicals. Results take 4 to 6 weeks to become visible, but they persist year to year.

Milky spore is a naturally occurring bacterium that infects Japanese beetle grubs. Like nematodes, it is applied to soil and works over time. It is slower than nematodes but lasts longer — sometimes 10 years or more. Both products are available at garden centers and online.

You can also reduce grub habitat by improving drainage and avoiding overwatering. Grubs prefer moist soil, so letting the top inch dry out between waterings makes the environment less hospitable. Removing thatch from lawn areas near your garden also reduces grub shelter.

If you use these methods, skunk visits should decline within a season as the food source disappears. This is the most permanent solution because it removes the reason skunks come at all.

Physical barriers that actually work

Fencing is the most reliable deterrent. A fence at least 3 feet tall, buried 6 inches into the ground, will keep skunks out of a defined area. Skunks can dig, but they are not aggressive diggers around barriers — they prefer to move to easier foraging spots. The buried portion prevents them from tunneling underneath.

Motion-activated lights and sprinklers startle skunks and make them uncomfortable. Skunks are nocturnal and prefer to forage in darkness. A light that turns on suddenly or a spray of water is usually enough to send them elsewhere. These work best when placed near the edge of the garden bed rather than in the center.

Row covers or netting protect individual plants but do not stop digging around them. If you use netting, find it tightly to the soil so a skunk cannot lift it to dig underneath. Netting is more practical for small beds or a few prized plants than for an entire garden.

Avoid relying on repellents like capsaicin spray, ammonia-soaked rags, or commercial skunk deterrents. These have mixed results and require frequent reapplication. Skunks are adaptable and often ignore them after a few nights.

When to expect skunk activity

Skunks are most active in spring and early summer, when grub populations peak and skunks are raising young. You may see activity from April through July in most regions, with a secondary peak in fall. Winter activity is rare unless you live in a warm climate.

Nighttime is the primary foraging period. If you see a skunk in daylight, it may be sick or disoriented — keep your distance and contact a local wildlife control service. Healthy skunks are nocturnal and predictable.

If you have had skunk problems in past seasons, start preventive measures in early spring before they establish a routine in your garden. Once they find your bed, breaking the habit takes longer than preventing it in the first place.

What to do if a skunk is actively in your garden

Do not corner or chase a skunk. They spray as a last resort, but they will spray if they feel trapped. If you encounter one, back away slowly and give it an exit route. Skunks are not aggressive and will leave if given the chance.

If a skunk has become a persistent problem and you have ruled out grubs as the food source, contact a local wildlife control service. They can humanely trap and relocate the animal or advise on exclusion methods specific to your property. Many areas have regulations about wildlife removal, so check local rules before attempting trapping yourself.

Do not poison or harm a skunk. It is illegal in most places, and it does not solve the underlying problem — another skunk will move in if the conditions remain attractive.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will skunks eat ripe tomatoes off the vine?

Skunks rarely eat tomatoes directly from plants. They may eat a tomato that has already fallen to the ground, but they are not climbing or picking fruit. If you see tomatoes with bite marks or missing sections, the culprit is more likely a groundhog, raccoon, or opossum.

Can I use mothballs or ammonia to keep skunks away?

These repellents have limited effectiveness. Skunks may avoid them for a few nights, but they adapt quickly and return once they realize there is no real threat. Physical barriers and grub reduction are more reliable long-term solutions.

Do skunks only dig in spring?

Skunks dig most heavily in spring and early summer when grub populations are highest and they are feeding young. Fall activity is possible in some regions. Winter digging is rare unless you live in a warm climate where skunks remain active year-round.

Will beneficial nematodes hurt my tomato plants?

No. Beneficial nematodes target only grub larvae and do not harm plants, beneficial insects, or soil microbes. They are safe to use in vegetable gardens and around food crops.

How deep do skunks dig when they are looking for grubs?

Skunks typically dig 1 to 4 inches deep, which is where grub larvae live. They do not dig deep holes like groundhogs do. The shallow, scattered holes are their signature and usually cause only surface damage to plant roots.