Squirrels will eat tomato fruit but usually leave the plant itself alone

Squirrels are interested in your tomato plants, but not in the way you might fear. They do not chew through stems or dig up roots to destroy the plant. What they want is the ripe or ripening tomato fruit itself — the actual tomatoes hanging on the vine. A squirrel will bite into a tomato, take a few bites, and often leave the rest behind, which is frustrating because the damage makes the fruit unusable even if most of it remains.

The reason squirrels target tomatoes is straightforward: they are looking for water and sugar. Tomatoes are about 95 percent water and taste sweet when ripe, which makes them attractive to squirrels during hot, dry weather or when natural food sources are scarce. A squirrel does not need to eat the whole tomato to get what it wants — a few bites satisfy the craving and it moves on to the next one.

Young plants and seedlings are generally safe from squirrel damage. Squirrels do not typically dig up or uproot tomato plants unless they are burying or retrieving nuts nearby. The real problem starts once the plant begins producing fruit, usually in mid to late summer depending on your climate.

Key Takeaways

  • Squirrels eat ripe or ripening tomato fruit but do not destroy the plant structure itself.
  • Damage is usually limited to a few bites per tomato, leaving the rest of the fruit exposed to rot and insects.
  • Squirrels are most active in your garden during hot, dry periods when water and fresh fruit are harder to find elsewhere.
  • Physical barriers like netting or cages around individual plants are the most reliable way to stop squirrel damage.
  • Removing fallen fruit and ripe tomatoes promptly reduces the attraction that brings squirrels back repeatedly.

Why squirrels prefer tomatoes over other garden plants

Squirrels eat a wide range of foods — nuts, seeds, bark, fungi, insects, and bird eggs — but they are drawn to tomatoes because of the combination of water and natural sugars. In summer, when temperatures climb and natural water sources dry up, a juicy tomato becomes a valuable resource. Squirrels will travel across yards and climb fences to reach a tomato plant they know is producing fruit.

Squirrels also have good memory for food sources. If a squirrel finds ripe tomatoes in your garden one year, it will return to the same spot the following year, often bringing other squirrels with it. This is why tomato damage can seem to escalate — you are not necessarily dealing with more squirrels, but the same ones returning because they know where to find food.

Other garden plants like lettuce, peppers, and beans are less attractive to squirrels because they lack the high water and sugar content of ripe tomatoes. Squirrels will nibble at these plants occasionally, but tomatoes are the prize.

Physical barriers that actually stop squirrel damage

Netting is the most effective defense. Use bird netting or garden netting with a mesh size small enough that a squirrel cannot push through — typically 1/2 inch or smaller. Drape the netting over the plant and find it to stakes or cages so squirrels cannot lift it from underneath. The netting must be tight enough that a squirrel cannot squeeze between the net and the plant stem. Leave the netting in place from the time fruit begins to form until you finish harvesting.

Cages and frames made from wire or PVC pipe work well for determinate (bush) tomato varieties that stay compact. Build a frame around the plant and cover it with 1/2-inch mesh or hardware cloth. Make sure the cage is tall enough that squirrels cannot reach over the top, and find it firmly to the ground so it cannot be tipped or moved.

Individual fruit covers are labor-intensive but effective for small plants or when you have only a few tomatoes ripening. Wrap each tomato in paper bags or netting once it reaches full size but before it begins to ripen. find the covering loosely so the tomato can still receive sunlight and air circulation. Remove the cover when you are ready to harvest.

Fencing around the entire garden is less effective for squirrels than for larger animals because squirrels climb and jump. A fence must be at least 6 feet tall and angled outward at the top, with no nearby trees or structures they can use to jump over it — an impractical solution for most home gardens.

Removing food sources that attract squirrels

Squirrels return to gardens where they have found food before. Removing that food source breaks the cycle. Pick ripe tomatoes as soon as they reach full color, even if you prefer to let them ripen on the vine a few more days. Ripe tomatoes attract squirrels more than partially ripe ones, so harvesting early reduces the attraction.

Remove fallen fruit when ready. A tomato that has dropped to the ground and split open is an open invitation to squirrels and other pests. Check under the plant daily during peak harvest season and pick up any fruit that has fallen, whether it is ripe or not.

Do not compost tomato scraps or damaged fruit in an open pile where squirrels can access them. Use a closed compost bin or bury scraps deep in the pile where they are not visible or easily reached. Leaving tomato waste around the garden teaches squirrels that your yard is a reliable food source.

Deterrents that have limited success

Taste deterrents like capsaicin-based sprays (made from hot peppers) can reduce squirrel interest, but they must be reapplied after rain and lose effectiveness over time. Squirrels may also straightforward avoid the sprayed area and move to untreated fruit on the same plant. These sprays work best as part of a layered approach, not as a standalone solution.

Ultrasonic devices and motion-activated sprinklers have mixed results. Some gardeners report success, but squirrels often become accustomed to the noise or spray and return. These devices work better for larger areas and may deter squirrels temporarily rather than permanently.

Predator decoys like plastic owls or snakes rarely work on squirrels because they are intelligent enough to recognize that a stationary decoy poses no real threat. Squirrels will investigate the decoy, realize it is harmless, and ignore it.

Ammonia-soaked rags and other smell-based deterrents are unreliable. Squirrels have strong noses but are not consistently repelled by odors, especially when food motivation is high.

Choosing tomato varieties less attractive to squirrels

Some tomato varieties are less appealing to squirrels than others, though no variety is completely squirrel-proof. Smaller fruiting varieties like cherry tomatoes and grape tomatoes are actually more attractive to squirrels because the fruit is easier to bite into and carry. Larger slicing tomatoes are sometimes less targeted because they are harder for a squirrel to get a grip on, but this is not a reliable defense.

Varieties that ripen later in the season may experience less squirrel pressure if squirrels have moved on to other food sources by that time. However, this depends on your local climate and the availability of other foods in your area — it is not a may provide solution.

The most practical approach is to choose the tomato varieties you actually want to grow and protect them with barriers rather than relying on variety selection alone.

When to call for professional help

If squirrel damage is severe and widespread across multiple plants, and barriers are not practical for your garden layout, a wildlife control professional can assess your situation. They may recommend trapping and relocation, though this is regulated differently by state and county — check your local wildlife regulations before pursuing this option. Some areas prohibit relocation of squirrels, and others require a permit.

A professional can also identify whether other wildlife is contributing to garden damage and recommend a comprehensive approach. However, for most home gardeners, netting or cages combined with prompt fruit removal will solve the problem without outside help.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will squirrels eat green tomatoes?

Squirrels prefer ripe or ripening tomatoes because they are softer and sweeter, but they will eat green tomatoes if ripe fruit is scarce. Green tomatoes are harder to bite through, so squirrels are less likely to target them. If squirrel pressure is high, protecting all fruit — green and ripe — with netting is the safest approach.

Can I use poison or pesticides to stop squirrels from eating tomatoes?

No. Poison is dangerous to pets, children, and other wildlife, and it is illegal in most areas. Pesticides do not deter squirrels and can contaminate the tomatoes you plan to eat. Barriers and removal of food sources are the safe and legal methods.

Do squirrels damage tomato roots or dig up plants?

Squirrels may dig near tomato plants while burying or retrieving nuts, but they do not target tomato roots specifically. If you see holes around the base of your plant, they are likely from squirrel or chipmunk nut-burying activity rather than an attempt to destroy the plant. This damage is usually minor and does not kill the plant.

What time of year are squirrels most active in gardens?

Squirrels are most active in tomato gardens during mid to late summer when fruit is ripening and natural water sources are scarce. Activity may peak during hot, dry spells. In fall, squirrels shift focus to acorns and nuts, so tomato damage often decreases naturally as the season progresses.

Will netting hurt the tomato plant or the fruit?

Properly installed netting does not harm the plant or fruit. Use soft mesh netting and find it loosely enough that it does not rub against stems or leaves in the wind. Check under the netting regularly to make sure no branches are being pinched or bent. Remove the netting after harvest to allow the plant to recover.