The main tomato varieties number in the hundreds, but they fall into a handful of practical groups

There is no single count of tomato varieties because breeders and seed companies keep creating new ones, and different regions grow different heirlooms that have been around for decades. What matters for a grower is not the total number but which type fits your space and what you want to do with it. The useful division is by growth habit, size, and use: determinate versus indeterminate plants; cherry, slicing, paste, and specialty sizes; and whether the variety is a hybrid, heirloom, or modern open-pollinated line.

Seed catalogs typically list between 50 and 200 varieties in any given year, and a large seed company might carry 100 or more. If you count every named variety ever recorded, the number climbs into the thousands, but most home growers will never see more than a few dozen at their local nursery or in a standard seed catalog.

Key Takeaways

  • Tomato varieties are grouped by growth habit (determinate plants stop growing; indeterminate ones keep going), which determines how you stake and prune them.
  • Size categories—cherry, slicing, paste, and beefsteak—tell you what the tomato is bred for and how it tastes, not just how big it gets.
  • Heirloom varieties are open-pollinated and produce seeds you can save; hybrids are bred for disease resistance and uniform ripening but do not produce usable seed.
  • Your local growing season and disease pressure matter more than variety count—a catalog of 100 options narrows quickly once you filter for your climate zone.
  • Most home gardeners grow between three and eight varieties per season, so the practical choice is smaller than the total number available.

Determinate versus indeterminate: the split that changes how you grow

Determinate tomatoes grow to a fixed height—usually 3 to 4 feet—and stop. They set most of their fruit at once, ripen it over a short window, and are done. These are the tomatoes you see in commercial fields and in paste sauce varieties like San Marzano and Roma. They need less staking and pruning, and they are good if you want to harvest and preserve a large batch at one time.

Indeterminate tomatoes grow as long as the season allows, sometimes reaching 6 feet or taller. They flower and set fruit continuously from mid-summer until frost. Beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are often indeterminate. They need sturdy stakes or cages, regular pruning to manage size, and they reward you with fruit over weeks or months rather than all at once.

A few varieties are semi-determinate, meaning they grow taller than a determinate but shorter than a true indeterminate, and they set fruit in two or three flushes rather than one or continuously. These are less common but useful if you want a middle ground.

Size and use: cherry, slicing, paste, and specialty types

Cherry tomatoes are small, usually under 2 inches across, and bred for sweetness and snacking. They include varieties like Sungold, Black Cherry, and Sweet 100. Most are indeterminate and prolific. They are the easiest to grow for beginners because they tolerate stress and produce heavily.

Slicing tomatoes are the large, round tomatoes you slice for sandwiches and salads. They range from 3 to 5 inches across and include varieties like Brandywine, Big Beef, and Early Girl. Some are meaty with few seeds; others are juicier. Most home gardeners grow at least one slicing variety.

Paste tomatoes are dense, low in water, and bred for sauce and canning. San Marzano, Roma, and Amish Paste are common examples. They are usually determinate, which makes them convenient for preserving. The flesh is thick and the seed cavity is small.

Specialty types include beefsteaks (very large slicing tomatoes, often over 8 ounces), cocktail tomatoes (between cherry and slicing size), and novelty colors like yellow, orange, purple, and striped varieties. These are less common but widely available from specialty seed companies.

Heirloom, hybrid, and open-pollinated: what the label means

An heirloom tomato is an open-pollinated variety that has been grown for at least 50 years, often much longer. Heirlooms are not bred for disease resistance or uniform ripening; they are grown because they taste good or have historical significance. Examples include Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, and Mortgage Lifter. You can save seeds from heirlooms and grow the same variety next year.

Hybrids are bred by crossing two parent varieties to combine traits—disease resistance, early ripening, or higher yield. Hybrids are labeled F1 (first generation). They often outperform heirlooms in disease pressure and produce uniform fruit, but seeds saved from a hybrid plant will not grow true to type. Most commercial and disease-resistant varieties are hybrids.

Open-pollinated varieties are not hybrids. They self-pollinate or are pollinated by insects, and seeds produce plants identical to the parent. Heirlooms are open-pollinated, but not all open-pollinated varieties are heirlooms—some are modern varieties bred without hybridization. Open-pollinated varieties let you save seed, which matters if you want to preserve a favorite or reduce seed costs over time.

How disease resistance affects variety choice

Tomato varieties are bred to resist common fungal and bacterial diseases. You will see letters on seed packets like V, F, N, T, and A, which stand for Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt, nematodes, tobacco mosaic virus, and Alternaria (early blight). If a disease is common in your area, choosing a variety with resistance to it can mean the difference between a healthy plant and one that fails mid-season.

Heirloom varieties often lack these resistances, which is why they can be harder to grow in humid climates or in soil where disease has built up. If you want an heirloom, you may need to manage disease with pruning, spacing, and fungicide, or accept some loss. Hybrids bred for your region usually have multiple resistances built in.

Your local extension office or a regional seed company can tell you which diseases are problems in your area and which varieties carry resistance to them. This is more useful than a national list because disease pressure varies by climate and soil.

Regional and heirloom varieties tied to specific places

Many heirloom tomatoes are named for the regions where they originated or became popular. Brandywine comes from Pennsylvania, San Marzano from Italy, Cherokee Purple from the Cherokee Nation, and Mortgage Lifter from West Virginia. Growing a regional heirloom can be a way to connect to local food history, but it also means the variety may be adapted to that region's climate and may not perform as well elsewhere.

Seed companies and gardening groups in different regions often maintain collections of locally adapted varieties. If you live in the South, a Southern heirloom collection will have varieties bred for heat and humidity. If you are in the North, Northern varieties will mature faster and tolerate cooler nights. Checking what grows well in your state or region is often more practical than choosing from a national catalog.

How to narrow down from hundreds to the few you actually need

Start with your growing space and season length. If you have a short season, choose early-maturing varieties like Early Girl or Siberia. If you have limited space, determinate or dwarf varieties take less room. If disease is a problem, filter for resistance letters that match your area.

Next, decide what you want to eat or preserve. One or two slicing varieties for fresh eating, one paste variety if you make sauce, and one cherry tomato for snacking covers most home gardens. Add a specialty or heirloom if you want to experiment, but do not feel obligated to grow 10 varieties your first year.

Finally, check what is available locally. A tomato you can buy as a transplant in spring is easier than starting from seed, and a local nursery's selection is usually already filtered for your climate. If you want more choice, seed catalogs let you order specific varieties, but you will need to start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a heirloom and a hybrid tomato?

Heirlooms are open-pollinated varieties grown for at least 50 years, and you can save seeds to replant. Hybrids are bred by crossing two parent varieties to gain traits like disease resistance or early ripening, but seeds from a hybrid will not grow true to type. Hybrids often perform better in disease pressure; heirlooms often taste better but require more care.

Do I need to grow multiple varieties or can I just pick one?

One variety will produce fruit, but most gardeners grow at least two or three to spread ripening over the season and have different flavors and uses. A slicing variety for salads, a cherry for snacking, and a paste variety for sauce is a common combination. You can start with one and add more as you learn what you like.

What does the F1 label mean on a seed packet?

F1 means first-generation hybrid. The seed is the result of crossing two parent varieties. F1 hybrids are uniform and often vigorous, but seeds saved from an F1 plant will not produce identical plants. If you want to save seeds, choose open-pollinated or heirloom varieties instead.

How do I know which variety will grow well in my area?

Your local extension office has lists of varieties tested in your region and knows which diseases are common in your soil and climate. Seed companies also often organize by region or hardiness zone. Asking at a local nursery what sells well is another quick way to find varieties suited to your area.

Can I grow a determinate tomato in a container?

Yes, determinate varieties are actually better for containers because they stay smaller and need less staking. A 5-gallon bucket or larger pot works well. Indeterminate varieties can grow in containers too, but they need a tall, sturdy cage or stake and more frequent watering because containers dry out faster.