The number of tomato varieties runs into the thousands, but most home gardeners choose from a much smaller set

Botanists and seed companies have catalogued somewhere between 7,500 and 10,000 named tomato varieties worldwide, though the exact count shifts as breeders develop new ones and old heirloom varieties resurface. That number sounds overwhelming until you realize that most of these exist in seed banks, specialty nurseries, or regional farms—not in the packets at your local garden center. For a home gardener, the real choice is usually between 50 to 200 varieties available through mail-order seed companies and local nurseries in any given year.

The varieties you can actually find depend on where you live, what season it is, and whether you shop at a big-box store or a specialty seed company. A standard garden center might stock 8 to 15 tomato varieties in spring. A seed catalogue like Johnny's Selected Seeds or Burpee carries 40 to 80. Specialty companies focused on heirloom or regional varieties can list 200 or more. The difference matters because availability shapes what you can grow, not just preference.

Key Takeaways

  • Tomato varieties number in the thousands globally, but home gardeners typically choose from 50 to 200 varieties available through common seed sources.
  • Varieties fall into distinct types—slicing, cherry, paste, beefsteak, and heirloom—each bred for different uses and growing conditions.
  • Determinate varieties stop growing at a set height and produce most fruit at once; indeterminate varieties grow all season and need staking or caging.
  • Disease resistance codes on seed packets (like V, F, N) tell you which common tomato problems a variety can withstand in your region.
  • Heirloom varieties offer unusual flavors and colors but often lack disease resistance and produce less fruit than modern hybrids.

The main types of tomatoes and what they're bred for

Slicing tomatoes are the large, smooth varieties you slice for sandwiches and salads. They include beefsteaks (very large, often irregular), standard slicers (3 to 4 inches across), and medium varieties. Examples: 'Brandywine', 'Cherokee Purple', 'Early Girl', 'Mortgage Lifter'. These tend to be indeterminate (keep growing) and need support.

Cherry tomatoes are small, sweet, and prolific. They ripen continuously through the season and are forgiving for new growers. Examples: 'Sungold', 'Black Cherry', 'Sweet 100', 'Tiny Tim'. Most are indeterminate, though some dwarf varieties stay compact.

Paste or plum tomatoes are dense, meaty, and low in seeds—bred for sauce, paste, and canning. The classic is 'San Marzano', but 'Roma', 'Amish Paste', and 'Opalka' are common. Most are determinate (stop growing at a set height) and produce a heavy crop all at once, which suits canning schedules.

Heirloom varieties are open-pollinated tomatoes (not hybrids) that have been grown for decades or centuries. They often have unusual colors—purple, yellow, striped, or green—and complex flavors. They also tend to have thin skins, crack easily, and produce less total fruit than modern hybrids. Examples: 'Brandywine', 'Cherokee Purple', 'Green Zebra', 'Mortgage Lifter'. Many heirlooms lack resistance to common diseases.

Determinate versus indeterminate: the growth pattern that matters most

Determinate (or "bush") tomatoes grow to a fixed height—usually 3 to 4 feet—then stop. They produce most of their fruit within a 2 to 3 week window, then slow down. They need little or no staking. Paste tomatoes and many early-season varieties are determinate. This pattern suits gardeners who want to harvest and preserve all at once, or who have limited space.

Indeterminate (or "vining") tomatoes keep growing taller all season, sometimes reaching 6 to 8 feet or more. They produce fruit continuously from mid-summer until frost. They need sturdy cages, stakes, or trellises. Most slicing and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate. This pattern suits gardeners who want fresh tomatoes throughout the season.

The seed packet or plant label always states which type you have. If it does not say "determinate," assume indeterminate and plan for support. This single choice—determinate or indeterminate—shapes your whole growing plan more than the variety name does.

Disease resistance codes and what they mean for your garden

Seed packets often show letters after the variety name: V, F, N, T, A, or L. These are disease resistance codes that tell you which problems the variety can handle. They matter because some diseases are common in certain regions or weather patterns, and a resistant variety saves you weeks of spraying or watching plants fail.

V = Verticillium wilt. F = Fusarium wilt (there are races 1, 2, and 3; the packet will say F1, F2, or F3). N = Nematodes (root-knot). T = Tobacco mosaic virus. A = Alternaria (early blight). L = Septoria leaf spot (late blight). A variety marked VFN has resistance to three of these. A variety with no letters has no documented resistance to any of them.

Which codes matter depends on your region. In the humid Southeast, late blight and early blight are constant threats, so A and L matter. In the Southwest, nematodes are common in warm soil, so N matters. Your local extension office can tell you which diseases are problems in your area. Choosing a resistant variety does not may provide you will never see the disease, but it means the plant can fight it off better than a susceptible one.

Heirloom varieties: flavor and color, with trade-offs

Heirloom tomatoes are open-pollinated, meaning you can save seeds from them and grow identical plants next year. They often have striking colors—deep purple, yellow, striped, or even green when ripe—and complex, sometimes tangy flavors. 'Brandywine' is famous for rich taste. 'Cherokee Purple' is dark and earthy. 'Green Zebra' is tart and fruity. 'Mortgage Lifter' is large and sweet.

The trade-off is real: heirlooms typically produce fewer total fruits than modern hybrids, have thinner skins that crack in rain or when overripe, and often lack disease resistance. A 'Brandywine' plant might give you 8 to 12 large, delicious tomatoes. A hybrid 'Early Girl' plant might give you 30 to 40 smaller but disease-resistant ones. Heirlooms also ripen later and need longer growing seasons. If you have a short summer or high humidity, an heirloom may not finish ripening before frost or disease takes the plant.

Heirlooms are worth growing if you have space, a long season, and you prioritize flavor over quantity. They are less forgiving for new gardeners or in challenging climates. Start with one or two heirloom plants alongside disease-resistant hybrids to see how they perform in your garden.

Hybrid varieties: consistency, disease resistance, and higher yields

Hybrid tomatoes are bred by crossing two specific parent plants. The result is a plant that combines traits from both parents—often disease resistance from one and flavor or size from the other. Hybrids produce uniform fruit, ripen reliably, and often yield more total tomatoes than heirlooms. They do not breed true from seed, so you cannot save seeds and grow the same plant next year; you buy new seed or transplants each season.

Common hybrids include 'Early Girl' (fast, reliable, disease-resistant), 'Big Beef' (large, meaty, disease-resistant), 'Sungold' (sweet cherry, prolific), and 'Mountain Magic' (bred for disease resistance in humid regions). Hybrids dominate garden centers because they are easier to grow and more predictable. For a first-time grower or someone in a region with serious disease pressure, a hybrid is often the smarter choice than an heirloom.

How to narrow down from thousands to the right variety for you

Start with three questions: What do you want to eat? How much space do you have? What is your growing season like?

If you want fresh slicing tomatoes for sandwiches, choose a medium to large slicing variety that is indeterminate (continuous harvest). If you want sauce or canning, choose a paste variety that is determinate (one big harvest). If you want snacking tomatoes, choose a cherry variety. If you have only a small space or a patio, choose a determinate or dwarf variety. If you have a long, hot, humid summer, choose varieties with disease resistance codes that match your region's problems. If you have a short season, choose early-maturing varieties (often marked "early" or with a days-to-maturity number under 70).

Once you have narrowed by use and space, check your local extension office or a regional seed company to see which varieties perform well in your climate. Then pick one or two to start. You can experiment with more varieties in future years once you know what works in your garden.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a hybrid and an heirloom tomato?

Hybrids are bred by crossing two specific parent plants and produce uniform, predictable fruit with often higher yields and disease resistance. Heirlooms are open-pollinated, meaning you can save seeds, and they offer unusual colors and complex flavors but often produce less fruit and lack disease resistance. Hybrids do not breed true from seed; heirlooms do.

Do I need to stake or cage every tomato plant?

Determinate varieties need little or no support and stay compact. Indeterminate varieties grow tall and sprawling and need sturdy cages, stakes, or trellises to keep fruit off the ground and improve air flow. Check your seed packet or plant label to see which type you have.

What do the letters on a tomato seed packet mean?

Letters like V, F, N, T, A, and L are disease resistance codes. V is Verticillium wilt, F is Fusarium wilt, N is nematodes, T is tobacco mosaic virus, A is early blight, and L is late blight. A variety marked with these letters can resist those diseases better than one without them. Which codes matter depends on which diseases are common in your region.

Can I grow heirloom tomatoes if I have never gardened before?

Heirlooms are harder than hybrids because they produce less fruit, crack easily, ripen late, and often lack disease resistance. If you are new to gardening, start with a disease-resistant hybrid like 'Early Girl' or 'Big Beef'. Once you know how tomatoes grow in your garden, try one heirloom plant alongside your hybrids to see if it works for you.

How many tomato plants should I grow?

One indeterminate plant produces enough fresh tomatoes for one person through the season. Two to three plants feed a small family. For canning or sauce, grow three to five determinate paste tomatoes so you have enough to harvest and preserve all at once. Start with fewer plants than you think you need; most gardeners end up with more tomatoes than they expected.