Cherry tomatoes need six to eight hours of direct sun, consistent watering, and support as they grow
Cherry tomato plants are smaller and more forgiving than full-size varieties, but they still need the same basic care: light, water, nutrients, and something to climb on. The main difference is that cherry plants produce fruit faster and keep producing longer if you maintain them properly. A plant that gets neglected for a week might stop flowering; one that gets regular attention will bear fruit from early summer until frost.
The good news is that cherry tomatoes grow in containers, in the ground, and even in hanging baskets. The care is the same regardless of where you plant them. If you get the watering and sunlight right, most other problems solve themselves.
Key Takeaways
- Cherry tomatoes need at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day to produce fruit; less light means fewer tomatoes and more disease.
- Water deeply at the soil level two to three times per week, not daily; wet leaves invite fungal disease and shallow roots invite drought stress.
- Install a cage or stake when you plant, not later, because tying up a mature plant damages roots and branches.
- Pinch off suckers (shoots that grow between the main stem and branches) every week or two to direct energy toward fruit instead of foliage.
- Stop fertilizing in late summer so the plant puts energy into ripening fruit rather than growing new leaves.
Sunlight and location matter more than most gardeners think
Cherry tomatoes will grow in five hours of sun, but they will flower less and fruit less. Six to eight hours is the minimum for steady production. If you have a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade, that works better than afternoon sun and morning shade, because morning light dries dew off the leaves and prevents fungal disease.
If you are growing in a container, you can move it to follow the sun as the season changes. If it is in the ground, choose the sunniest spot available before you plant. A plant that starts in shade and gets moved to sun later will have already wasted weeks of growth.
Reflected heat from a wall or fence is a bonus in cool climates and a problem in hot ones. In zones where summer temperatures regularly exceed 90°F, afternoon shade actually helps the plant set fruit, because extreme heat can cause flowers to drop.
Water at the soil level, not the leaves
The most common mistake is watering the leaves instead of the soil. Wet foliage invites early blight and powdery mildew, both of which kill cherry tomato plants. Water the base of the plant, slowly, so the water soaks down to the roots instead of running off the surface.
How often you water depends on temperature, soil, and whether the plant is in a container or the ground. In general, water when the top inch of soil feels dry to your touch. In hot weather that might be every other day; in cool weather it might be once a week. Container plants dry out faster than in-ground plants, so check them more often.
Drip irrigation or a soaker hose is ideal because water goes straight to the soil and stays off the leaves. If you use a regular hose, hold the nozzle low and let water run slowly for a minute or two. A plant needs about one inch of water per week, either from rain or from you.
Install support before the plant gets heavy
A cherry tomato plant will grow two to three feet tall and produce dozens of fruit-laden branches. Without support, branches break under the weight, fruit touches the ground and rots, and the plant becomes a tangled mess. Install a cage or stake at planting time, not later.
A cage works well for container plants and small spaces. Push it into the soil so it does not tip over when the plant gets heavy. A stake (a four-foot wooden or metal pole) works better if you plan to prune the plant into a single or double stem, because you can tie branches to it as they grow.
As the plant grows, gently tie branches to the support with soft ties—old strips of cloth, garden tape, or commercial plant ties. Tie loosely so the stem can expand. Check ties every week or two and loosen them if they are cutting into the branch.
Pinch off suckers to direct energy toward fruit
A sucker is a shoot that grows in the angle between the main stem and a branch. If you leave them alone, they grow into full branches with their own flowers and fruit, which sounds good but is not. Each sucker diverts energy from the fruit already on the plant, and a plant crowded with foliage gets poor air circulation and more disease.
Once a week, walk around the plant and pinch off suckers with your fingers. They are soft and snap off easily when they are young. If you miss one and it gets woody, use pruning shears. Do not remove the main stem or the large branches—only the shoots growing in the crotches.
Some gardeners remove the bottom leaves once the plant is established, to improve air circulation and keep fruit off the soil. Wait until the plant is at least a foot tall, then remove leaves from the bottom six inches. Do this gradually over a few weeks, not all at once.
Fertilize early in the season, then stop
A cherry tomato plant needs nitrogen to grow leaves and phosphorus to make flowers and fruit. If you planted in rich soil or added compost at planting time, you might not need to fertilize at all. If the soil is poor, fertilize every two to three weeks from planting until mid-summer.
Use a balanced fertilizer (something like 10-10-10) or a tomato-specific formula. Follow the label instructions for the amount. Too much nitrogen makes the plant grow leaves instead of fruit, and it makes the plant more attractive to pests.
Stop fertilizing in late July or early August, depending on your climate. At that point, the plant should be in full production, and you want it to put energy into ripening the fruit already on it, not growing new flowers. Fertilizing late in the season extends the growing season but delays ripening.
Watch for common pests and diseases
Cherry tomatoes are tougher than larger varieties, but they still get aphids, spider mites, and hornworms. Aphids cluster on new growth and suck sap; spider mites make leaves look speckled and dry; hornworms are large green caterpillars that eat leaves and fruit. If you see any of these, spray the plant with water from the hose to knock off aphids and mites, or pick off hornworms by hand.
Early blight and septoria leaf spot are fungal diseases that start on the lower leaves and work their way up. You will see brown spots with concentric rings. Remove the affected leaves, improve air circulation by pruning, and water only at the soil level. If the disease spreads, a fungicide labeled for tomatoes will slow it down, but prevention (good air flow and dry leaves) is more effective than treatment.
Blossom end rot is a dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the fruit. It is caused by inconsistent watering, not a disease. Keep the soil evenly moist and it will not happen. Fruit already affected cannot be saved, but new fruit will be fine.
Harvest ripe fruit and let the plant keep producing
Cherry tomatoes are ready to pick when they are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch. They do not have to be rock-hard. Pick them regularly—every few days in peak season—because a plant that is crowded with ripe fruit will slow down production. Removing fruit signals the plant to make more flowers.
Tomatoes will ripen off the vine if you pick them when they are light pink or orange. This is useful in late summer when you want to clear the plant before frost, or if you have more fruit than you can eat. Put them in a paper bag at room temperature and they will finish ripening in a few days.
A healthy cherry tomato plant will produce from June or July until the first frost. In mild climates, a plant can keep producing into November. The longer you maintain it—watering, pruning, removing ripe fruit—the longer it will bear.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I grow cherry tomatoes in a pot indoors under a grow light?
Yes, but the plant needs at least 12 to 14 hours of light per day from a light positioned 6 to 12 inches above the leaves. A standard household bulb is not bright enough. You will also need to hand-pollinate flowers by shaking the plant gently when it blooms, because there are no bees indoors to do it.
Why are my cherry tomatoes splitting or cracking?
Splitting happens when the fruit gets a lot of water after a dry period. The skin cannot expand fast enough and cracks. Water consistently instead of letting the soil dry out and then soaking it. Mulch around the plant to keep soil moisture steady. Fruit that has already split will not heal, but new fruit will be fine if you keep watering even.
Do I need to remove all the leaves to get more sun on the fruit?
No. Leaves make the sugar that goes into the fruit, so removing too many leaves actually makes tomatoes less sweet and less flavorful. Remove only the bottom leaves (once the plant is established) to improve air circulation and keep fruit off the soil. Leave the upper leaves alone.
What should I do at the end of the season when frost is coming?
Pick all the fruit, including green ones. Ripe fruit will keep in a paper bag at room temperature for a few days. Green fruit will ripen indoors over one to two weeks. Pull the plant out and throw it away or compost it if it is disease-free. Do not leave it in the garden, because disease spores overwinter in dead plant material.
Can I save seeds from my cherry tomatoes to plant next year?
Yes, but only if the plant is an open-pollinated or heirloom variety, not a hybrid. Hybrid seeds will not grow true to the parent plant. Scoop seeds and gel into a jar, add a little water, and let it ferment for two to three days. Rinse the seeds, dry them completely on a paper plate, and store them in a cool, dry place. They will stay viable for three to four years.