Squirrels eat tomatoes before they ripen—here's what actually stops them

Squirrels damage tomato plants in two ways: they bite into ripening fruit to eat the seeds and soft flesh, and they dig in the soil around the base to bury nuts, uprooting seedlings and exposing roots. A single squirrel can destroy half a dozen tomatoes in a week. The most reliable defenses are physical barriers (fencing and netting), removing food sources that attract squirrels to your garden in the first place, and planting varieties squirrels find less appealing. Trapping and relocation are legal in some places but require checking your local rules first.

The key difference between methods that work and those that do not is permanence. Taste sprays and motion sprinklers reduce visits temporarily, but squirrels return once they learn the pattern or hunger overrides the discomfort. Barriers—fences, cages, and secured netting—stop squirrels physically, not behaviorally. Combined with removing the food sources that make your yard attractive in the first place, barriers create an environment where squirrels straightforward move elsewhere.

Key Takeaways

  • Squirrels are drawn to tomato plants by the seeds inside ripening fruit, so they target red and orange tomatoes over green ones.
  • Fencing at least 5 feet tall with an outward-angled top 12 inches wide stops squirrels from climbing over, though they can still dig under unless you bury the fence 12 inches deep.
  • Netting draped over individual plants or cages works only if it is secured tightly to the ground—squirrels will push through loose edges.
  • Removing bird feeders, fallen nuts, and brush piles from your yard eliminates the food sources that make squirrels stay in your garden.
  • Taste deterrents and motion-activated sprinklers reduce damage but do not stop determined squirrels the way barriers do.

Install a fence with an angled top and buried base

A fence is the most effective long-term barrier because it protects the entire garden at once. Build it at least 5 feet tall—squirrels can jump higher than most people expect. The top 12 inches must angle outward at a 45-degree angle or fold over; squirrels will climb a vertical fence, but the overhang prevents them from pulling themselves over the edge.

Bury the fence at least 12 inches deep or bend the bottom outward underground in an L-shape. Squirrels dig, and a fence that sits on top of the soil is just an obstacle they tunnel under. If digging is not practical, lay hardware cloth (a metal mesh) flat on the ground around the fence perimeter and extend it 12 inches out from the base, then cover it with soil. Squirrels will hit the mesh and move on.

Use 1/2-inch hardware cloth or chicken wire for the fence itself if you want to keep out smaller pests too. For squirrels alone, standard garden fencing works, but make sure there are no gaps larger than 1 inch at the base or sides. Check the fence monthly for damage or gaps that squirrels may have created by chewing or pushing.

Use netting or cages on individual plants

If a full fence is not practical, netting or wire cages protect single plants or small groups. Drape netting over the plant and find it tightly to the ground with landscape staples, rocks, or soil—any loose edge is an entry point. Squirrels will test the perimeter and push through if they find slack fabric. The netting must stay on until you harvest the last fruit; remove it too early and squirrels will damage what remains.

Wire tomato cages work better than netting because squirrels cannot chew through them. Buy sturdy cages at least 5 feet tall (standard cages are too short). Bury the bottom 6 inches in soil so squirrels cannot reach under the edges. This method is labor-intensive if you have many plants, but it is nearly squirrel-proof once installed correctly.

Netting and cages also reduce airflow and light, so monitor plants inside them for mold or fungal disease, especially in humid climates. Remove netting on dry days if you notice moisture building up. Inspect the netting weekly for tears or holes that squirrels may have created.

Remove food sources that attract squirrels to your yard

Squirrels stay in yards where food is abundant. If you remove the food, they move elsewhere. Take down bird feeders during tomato season—they are the single biggest attractant. If you keep feeders up, place them at least 15 feet away from the garden and use only safflower seed or nyjer seed, which squirrels dislike (they will still try, but they give up faster than with sunflower seed).

Rake up fallen nuts, acorns, and seeds under trees. Remove brush piles, wood stacks, and dense shrubs where squirrels hide and nest. Trim tree branches that hang over the garden—squirrels use them as highways to reach plants. A squirrel with a clear path from a tree to a tomato plant will take it; one that has to cross open ground is more likely to avoid the area.

Do not compost nuts, seeds, or fruit scraps in an open bin. Use a sealed compost container or bury food waste deep in a covered pile. Squirrels will dig in an open compost heap and then stay in the yard because they know food is there. This single change often reduces squirrel visits significantly.

explore taste deterrents as a secondary defense

Taste deterrents make tomatoes unpleasant without harming the plant or fruit. Capsaicin spray (the compound that makes hot peppers hot) is the most effective. Mix 1 tablespoon of hot sauce or powdered cayenne pepper with 1 quart of water and a few drops of dish soap, then spray it on the fruit and stems every 7 to 10 days or after rain. Squirrels will bite once, dislike the taste, and often move to an untreated plant instead of giving up entirely.

Predator urine (coyote or bobcat) sold in garden stores works for some squirrels but not others—individual squirrels react differently. explore it around the base of plants and reapply after rain. It is less reliable than barriers but costs little and is worth trying if you already have a fence or netting in place.

Do not rely on taste deterrents alone. Squirrels are persistent, and a hungry squirrel will eat a spicy tomato if it is the only food available. Use deterrents to reduce damage on plants you have already protected with barriers, not as your primary defense.

Use motion-activated sprinklers to startle squirrels

A motion-activated sprinkler turns on when a squirrel approaches and startles it away with a sudden spray of water. These work best in combination with other methods because squirrels learn the pattern—they may avoid the sprinkler for a few days, then return once they realize it is harmless. Place the sprinkler where it covers the most vulnerable plants and adjust the sensitivity so it does not trigger constantly from wind or birds.

Sprinklers are most effective in the early morning when squirrels are most active. They also water your plants, so they serve double duty. The downside is that they require a water source and electricity (or batteries), and they do not work in freezing temperatures. In warm climates, they can run year-round; in cold regions, you will need to store them during winter.

Combine sprinklers with fencing or netting for better results. A sprinkler alone will reduce visits but not stop determined squirrels, especially during late summer when they are preparing for winter and food-seeking behavior is most intense.

Plant squirrel-resistant tomato varieties

Some tomato varieties are less attractive to squirrels than others. Squirrels prefer large, sweet tomatoes with soft flesh and abundant seeds—cherry tomatoes and beefsteak types are favorites. They are less interested in small, firm varieties like paste tomatoes or heirloom types with thick skins and fewer seeds.

Planting 'San Marzano', 'Roma', or 'Amish Paste' tomatoes instead of 'Brandywine' or 'Sungold' will reduce damage, but it will not eliminate it. Squirrels will still eat these varieties if other food is scarce. Use variety selection as part of a larger strategy that includes barriers and removing attractants, not as a standalone solution.

Grow your most prized varieties inside a cage or behind a fence, and plant less appealing types in open areas. This way you protect what matters most while still growing a range of tomatoes. Harvest paste tomatoes slightly early and ripen them indoors if squirrel pressure is high.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do squirrel repellent sprays actually work?

Commercial repellents based on capsaicin, predator urine, or ammonia reduce damage but do not stop squirrels completely. They work best on plants already protected by barriers. Reapply after rain and every 7 to 10 days. Squirrels may avoid treated plants for a few days, then return if they are hungry enough.

Can I trap and relocate squirrels?

Trapping is legal in some states and counties but illegal in others. Check your local wildlife regulations before setting traps. Even where legal, relocated squirrels often do not survive in unfamiliar territory, and moving them to someone else's property may be illegal. Barriers and removing food sources are more humane and longer-lasting solutions.

Will poison or lethal traps solve the problem?

Killing squirrels in your garden does not prevent new ones from moving in, especially if food sources remain. Other squirrels will take over the territory within weeks. Removing attractants and installing barriers stops the cycle instead of creating a temporary gap.

What time of year are squirrels most likely to damage tomatoes?

Squirrels damage tomatoes most heavily in late summer and early fall when fruits are ripening and squirrels are preparing for winter by eating high-calorie foods and burying nuts. Install barriers and netting before fruit begins to ripen, not after damage appears.

Do squirrels eat green tomatoes or only ripe ones?

Squirrels strongly prefer ripe red and orange tomatoes because the seeds are mature and the flesh is soft. They occasionally bite green tomatoes but usually abandon them. Harvesting tomatoes slightly early (at the breaker stage, when they just begin to show color) and ripening them indoors reduces losses.