Plant tomatoes in spring after the last frost, in a spot that gets at least six to eight hours of direct sun each day
Tomatoes need warmth to thrive. The soil temperature should be at least 60°F, but ideally closer to 70°F before you plant. In most regions, this means waiting until two to four weeks after your last spring frost date. You can find your local frost date by searching "[your city] last frost date" — it varies significantly by location.
Choose a location where tomato plants will receive direct sunlight for most of the day. Six hours is the bare minimum; eight or more is better. Tomatoes grown in shade produce fewer fruits and are more prone to disease. If your yard is mostly shaded, container growing on a sunny patio or deck is a practical alternative.
Key Takeaways
- Plant tomatoes in warm soil (at least 60°F, ideally 70°F) after your last spring frost, in a spot with six to eight hours of direct sun daily.
- Dig a hole deeper than the root ball and bury the stem partway up the plant — tomatoes will grow roots along the buried stem and establish stronger plants.
- Water deeply and consistently, aiming for about one inch per week, and water at the soil level rather than overhead to reduce disease.
- Support plants with stakes or cages early, and prune suckers (shoots between the main stem and branches) on indeterminate varieties to direct energy toward fruit.
- Harvest tomatoes when they reach full color, or pick them at the breaker stage (when the first blush of color appears) and ripen them indoors if pests or disease are a problem.
Preparing the soil and planting depth
Tomatoes grow best in soil that drains well and is rich in organic matter. Before planting, work compost or aged manure into the top six to eight inches of soil. If your soil is heavy clay or compacted, raised beds or containers filled with potting mix are often easier than amending in place.
When you plant, dig a hole deeper than the root ball of your seedling. Tomatoes have the ability to grow roots along their buried stem, so you can bury the plant up to the first set of true leaves. This creates a stronger root system and helps the plant withstand drought and wind. Remove the lower leaves before burying the stem — any leaves below soil level will rot and invite disease.
Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart, depending on the variety. Determinate (bush) types can be closer; indeterminate (vining) types need more room for air circulation.
Watering and feeding throughout the growing season
Tomatoes need consistent moisture, especially once flowering and fruiting begin. Aim for about one inch of water per week, delivered in one or two deep waterings rather than daily sprinkles. Deep watering encourages roots to grow downward and makes plants more resilient during dry spells.
Water at soil level, not overhead. Wet foliage invites fungal diseases like early blight and powdery mildew. A soaker hose or drip line is ideal; if you hand-water, direct the stream at the base of the plant.
Feed tomatoes every two to three weeks once they start flowering. Use a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) or one formulated for tomatoes, which is often higher in phosphorus and potassium to encourage fruiting. Follow the label rate — more fertilizer does not speed growth and can actually reduce fruit production. If leaves yellow between the veins while veins stay green, the plant may need magnesium; a light dusting of Epsom salt (one tablespoon per plant, worked into the soil) can help.
Supporting plants and managing growth
Install stakes or cages early, when plants are small — waiting until they are large and heavy makes it harder to support them without breaking branches. Wooden stakes, metal cones, and wire cages all work; choose based on the space you have and the variety you are growing. Indeterminate varieties (which grow tall and vine-like) often do better with stakes and string or twine tied loosely around the stem. Determinate varieties (compact, bush-like) usually fit well in cages.
On indeterminate tomatoes, you can prune suckers — the shoots that grow in the angle between the main stem and a branch. Removing suckers directs the plant's energy into fruit production rather than excess foliage. On determinate varieties, pruning is less necessary and can actually reduce your harvest, so leave them alone.
If your tomato plant becomes very dense with foliage, you can remove some lower leaves once the plant is established. This improves air circulation and reduces disease risk. Never strip more than one-third of the foliage at once.
Recognizing and preventing common problems
Early blight appears as brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves, usually in mid to late summer. Remove affected leaves promptly and improve air circulation by spacing plants well and pruning lower foliage. Avoid overhead watering. If the disease spreads despite these steps, a fungicide labeled for tomatoes (such as chlorothalonil or copper) can slow it, but prevention is far more effective than treatment.
Blossom end rot shows up as a dark, sunken spot on the bottom of developing fruit. It is caused by inconsistent watering and calcium deficiency in the fruit itself. The solution is steady, deep watering — do not let the soil dry out between waterings. Mulching around the base of the plant helps retain moisture.
Hornworms are large green caterpillars that can strip foliage quickly. Hand-pick them if you spot them, or use an insecticide labeled for tomatoes if the infestation is severe. Whiteflies and spider mites are common in hot, dry conditions; spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil if populations get out of hand.
Harvesting and ripening tomatoes
Tomatoes are ready to pick when they reach full color for their variety — deep red, orange, yellow, or pink, depending on the type. Gently twist and lift, or use pruning shears to avoid damaging the vine. Ripe tomatoes come off the plant easily.
If you are harvesting before the first frost and have green tomatoes still on the vine, pick them at the breaker stage — when the first blush of color appears at the blossom end. Place them in a cardboard box or paper bag at room temperature (around 68 to 72°F) indoors, out of direct sunlight. They will ripen over several days to a week. This method works well if pests or disease are threatening the crop, and it also prevents birds and insects from damaging ripe fruit on the vine.
Do not refrigerate tomatoes until they are fully ripe; cold temperatures stop the ripening process and damage flavor. Once ripe, tomatoes keep in the refrigerator for a few days, but they taste best at room temperature.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I grow tomatoes in containers?
Yes. Use a pot at least five gallons for determinate varieties and ten gallons or larger for indeterminate types. Fill with potting mix (not garden soil), water consistently because containers dry out faster than ground beds, and feed every two weeks. Container tomatoes need the same sun and support as in-ground plants.
What is the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes?
Determinate tomatoes are compact, bush-like plants that produce most of their fruit over a short window — good for canning or preserving. Indeterminate tomatoes grow tall and vine-like, producing fruit continuously until frost. Indeterminate varieties need more space, taller stakes, and pruning; determinate varieties are lower-maintenance and fit smaller spaces.
Why are my tomato flowers falling off without making fruit?
Flowers drop when temperatures are too hot (above 90°F at night), too cold (below 55°F), or when the plant is stressed by inconsistent watering or too much nitrogen fertilizer. may support steady moisture, avoid over-fertilizing, and be patient — once temperatures stabilize, flowering and fruit set usually resume.
How do I know when to stop watering before the first frost?
You do not need to stop watering. Continue deep watering until the first frost arrives. If you want to ripen green tomatoes faster in late summer, you can reduce watering slightly to stress the plant, but this is optional and can reduce overall yield.
Can I save seeds from my tomatoes?
Yes, but only from heirloom or open-pollinated varieties. Hybrid tomatoes will not produce seeds that grow into the same plant. Scoop seeds and pulp into a jar, ferment for two to three days (this removes a germination inhibitor), rinse, dry on a plate for a week, and store in a cool, dry place. Seeds stay viable for three to four years.