Cherry tomatoes need full sun, warm soil, and space between plants to thrive
Cherry tomatoes grow best in soil that has warmed to at least 60°F, ideally 70°F or higher. Plant them after your last frost date has passed — check your local frost calendar to find the exact week for your area. They need at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, so choose a spot that faces south or west if possible. Unlike some vegetables, cherry tomatoes are forgiving about soil quality, but they do need soil that drains well so water doesn't pool around the roots.
You can plant cherry tomatoes in the ground, in raised beds, or in containers as small as five gallons. Container growing works especially well for cherry tomatoes because you can move them to catch more sun or protect them from wind. The main difference between planting methods is how much soil you're working with and how often you'll need to water — containers dry out faster than garden beds.
Key Takeaways
- Plant cherry tomatoes after your last frost date in soil warmed to at least 60°F, in a spot with six to eight hours of direct sun.
- Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart in the ground or use containers at least five gallons in size to give roots room to spread.
- Bury the stem deeper than it was growing in its nursery pot — roots will form along the buried stem and strengthen the plant.
- Water deeply at the soil level once or twice a week depending on heat and rainfall, and add mulch to keep soil moisture steady.
- Install a cage or stake at planting time rather than later, when you risk damaging roots trying to drive it into the ground.
Preparing the planting spot and soil
Before you plant, clear the area of weeds and grass. If you're planting in the ground, work the top six to eight inches of soil with a garden fork or tiller to loosen it. Cherry tomatoes don't need rich soil, but they do benefit from soil that holds moisture without staying soggy. If your soil is mostly clay, mix in two to three inches of compost or aged manure to improve drainage. If it's very sandy, compost helps it hold water longer.
For container planting, use a potting mix labeled for vegetables or general-purpose potting soil — not garden soil from your yard, which compacts in containers. Fill the container so the soil surface is about an inch below the rim, leaving room for water to settle without running off.
Spacing and planting depth matter more than most gardeners realize
Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart in the ground. Cherry tomatoes grow into bushy plants, and crowding them invites disease because air can't circulate around the leaves. If you're planting in containers, one plant per five-gallon pot is the standard — a 10-gallon container can hold two plants if you space them well.
Dig a hole slightly deeper than the root ball of your nursery plant. Cherry tomato seedlings are often leggy — tall and thin — and that's actually an advantage: bury the stem up to the first true leaves. Roots will form all along the buried stem, creating a stronger root system. This is one of the biggest differences between planting tomatoes and most other vegetables. Remove the lower leaves before you bury the stem so they don't sit in the soil and rot.
Gently firm the soil around the plant and water it in thoroughly. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged — you should be able to squeeze it and have it hold together without dripping.
Support structures should go in at planting time
Install a cage, stake, or trellis at the moment you plant rather than waiting until the plant is larger. Driving a stake into the ground later risks piercing roots and damaging the plant. Cherry tomatoes are smaller and lighter than beefsteak varieties, so they don't need the heaviest cages, but they do need something — the weight of fruit will pull branches down as the plant grows.
A straightforward stake and twine works well: drive a five-foot stake into the ground next to the plant and tie the main stem loosely to it as it grows. A cage designed for determinate (bush-type) tomatoes also works. Avoid cages that are too small — they should be at least 48 inches tall and sturdy enough not to tip over when the plant is full of fruit.
Watering and mulch keep soil conditions steady
Water deeply at the soil level once or twice a week, depending on how hot it is and how much rain you've had. In hot weather, container plants may need water every day. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist, not wet — let the top inch dry out between waterings. Watering from above wets the leaves, which can lead to fungal disease, so water at the base of the plant instead.
After the soil has warmed and the plant is established, add two to three inches of mulch around the base — straw, wood chips, or shredded leaves all work. Mulch keeps the soil temperature steady, reduces water loss, and prevents soil from splashing onto leaves during rain or watering. Leave a few inches of space around the stem so the mulch doesn't trap moisture against the plant.
Hardening off seedlings before planting outdoors
If you started your cherry tomato plants from seed indoors, they need to adjust to outdoor conditions before you plant them in the garden. This process is called hardening off. Begin about a week before your planting date by setting the seedlings outside in a sheltered, shaded spot for an hour or two. Each day, gradually increase the time outside and move them into more direct sun. By the end of the week, they should be able to spend a full day and night outside.
Hardening off prevents the shock that kills seedlings moved directly from a warm indoor windowsill to outdoor sun and wind. You'll notice the plants look tougher and develop a slight purple tint as they adjust — that's normal and a sign they're ready to plant.
Planting in containers versus in-ground beds
Container planting has real advantages: you can position pots to catch maximum sun, move them if a storm is coming, and control the soil quality completely. The trade-off is that containers need more frequent watering because soil dries out faster, especially in heat. A five-gallon bucket with drainage holes drilled in the bottom works as well as a purpose-made pot.
In-ground planting uses less water and requires less daily attention, but you're committed to that location for the season. If the spot turns out to be too shady or too wet, you can't easily move the plant. In-ground beds also warm up more slowly in spring, so you may have to wait longer to plant. Choose containers if you want flexibility or have limited garden space; choose in-ground beds if you have a sunny, well-draining spot and want lower maintenance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant cherry tomatoes in the same spot where I grew tomatoes last year?
It's better not to. Tomato diseases live in the soil and can infect new plants. If you must replant in the same bed, remove the top six inches of soil and replace it with fresh compost, or plant in containers with new potting mix instead.
What's the difference between planting a seedling and a transplant from the nursery?
There's no real difference — both are young plants grown indoors. Nursery transplants are usually already hardened off, so you can plant them directly outdoors. Seedlings you started yourself need the hardening-off process first.
How deep should the hole be if my seedling is already tall and leggy?
Bury it as deep as you can without burying the first true leaves. If the seedling is eight inches tall, bury six inches of stem. The deeper you bury it, the stronger the root system, so err on the side of deep rather than shallow.
Do cherry tomatoes need fertilizer at planting time?
No — if you've mixed compost into the soil, that's enough nutrition to start. Too much nitrogen at planting encourages leafy growth at the expense of fruit. Wait until the plant is flowering to add fertilizer.
Can I plant cherry tomatoes in partial shade?
They'll grow in four to six hours of sun, but they'll produce fewer fruits and ripen more slowly. Six to eight hours is the minimum for good production. If your only option is partial shade, choose a spot that gets morning sun rather than afternoon shade.