Plant tomato starts after the last frost date in your area, spacing them deeper than they were in their nursery pot
A tomato start is a young plant already a few weeks old, bought from a nursery rather than grown from seed. When you plant it, bury it deeper than it came in its pot — up to the first true leaves. Tomato roots will form all along the buried stem, creating a stronger root system. Plant in full sun (at least six to eight hours daily), in soil that drains well, after your area's last frost date has passed.
The timing matters more than the calendar date. Check your local frost date using the USDA Hardiness Zone Map or by searching "[your city] last frost date." Tomatoes planted before that date will sit in cold soil and rot rather than grow. If you buy starts early, keep them indoors or in a sheltered spot until the soil has warmed.
Key Takeaways
- Plant tomato starts deeper than their nursery pot, burying the stem up to the first true leaves to encourage a stronger root system.
- Wait until after your area's last frost date to plant outdoors, which you can find by searching your city name and "last frost date."
- Choose a location with at least six to eight hours of direct sun daily and soil that drains well.
- Space determinate varieties two to three feet apart and indeterminate varieties three to four feet apart, because they grow to different sizes.
- Water deeply after planting and keep the soil consistently moist for the first two weeks while roots establish.
Prepare the soil before you plant
Tomatoes grow best in soil that is loose, drains well, and holds some organic matter. If you are planting in the ground, work compost or aged manure into the top six to eight inches of soil a week or two before planting. This feeds the plant and improves drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, add compost to at least the planting hole — a hole that is wider and deeper than the start's root ball.
For container growing, use a potting mix labeled for vegetables or tomatoes, not garden soil. Garden soil compacts in a pot and roots cannot breathe. A five-gallon bucket or larger works for one plant; bigger containers (ten gallons or more) give roots more room and reduce how often you water. Fill the container with moist potting mix before planting.
Dig the hole and position the start
Dig a hole slightly wider than the start's root ball and deep enough that you can bury the stem up to the first set of true leaves — the leaves that look like tomato leaves, not the smooth seed leaves that emerged first. If the start is leggy or tall, you can bury it even deeper, at an angle if needed. Tomato stems will root anywhere they touch soil.
Gently remove the start from its pot by tipping it sideways and sliding it out. If roots are circling the root ball (root-bound), loosen them with your fingers before planting. Set the start in the hole so the buried portion is vertical or slightly angled, and the top leaves are above soil level. Backfill with soil and press gently to remove air pockets.
Space plants according to their mature size
Determinate tomatoes (bush types that grow to a fixed size) need two to three feet between plants. Indeterminate tomatoes (vining types that grow all season) need three to four feet. Check the label on your start to see which type it is. Wider spacing improves air flow, which reduces disease, and gives each plant room to spread without competing for water and nutrients.
If you are planting in a row, measure the distance from the center of one plant to the center of the next. In a garden bed, you can stagger plants in a triangle pattern to use space more efficiently while keeping the spacing the same.
Water when ready and establish a routine
Water deeply right after planting so soil settles around the roots and the plant is not stressed by transplanting. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged — you should be able to squeeze a handful and have it hold together without water dripping out. For the first two weeks, keep soil consistently moist as the roots establish in their new location.
After two weeks, switch to deeper, less frequent watering. Tomatoes prefer one deep watering per week (or more in very hot weather) over daily shallow watering. Water at the base of the plant, not on the leaves, to reduce fungal disease. In containers, check soil moisture daily because pots dry out faster than garden beds.
Add support early to avoid damaging roots later
Install a cage, stake, or trellis at planting time rather than weeks later. Driving a stake into the ground after roots have spread risks damaging them. Determinate varieties need light support; indeterminate varieties need sturdy cages or stakes because they grow tall and heavy with fruit. Tie the stem loosely to the support with soft ties or cloth strips so the plant can grow without girdling.
If you forget to stake at planting, wait until the plant is at least a foot tall before installing support, and be careful to avoid the root zone, which extends outward as far as the plant is tall.
Protect young plants from pests and weather
Newly planted starts are tender and attractive to slugs, cutworms, and other pests. If you see holes in leaves or stems cut at soil level, use a cutworm collar — a toilet paper tube or small can pushed into the soil around the stem. For slugs, remove debris around the plant and water in the morning so the soil dries during the day.
If a late frost is forecast after you have planted, cover plants with a frost cloth, blanket, or even newspaper held down with stakes. Remove the cover during the day so the plant gets sun and air. If a plant is damaged by frost (leaves turn black and wilt), it may recover if the stem is still green, so wait a few days before removing it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant tomato starts before the last frost date if I cover them?
Covering protects from one or two light frosts, but repeated cold nights will still stunt growth or kill the plant. It is safer to wait until the frost date has passed and soil is warm. If you plant early and cover, be ready to remove the cover during warm days so the plant does not overheat.
What if my tomato start is already flowering when I buy it?
Remove the flowers before planting. The plant will put energy into root development instead of fruit, and a stronger root system means more fruit later. Pinch off flowers with your fingers or scissors. The plant will flower again once it is established.
How deep should I bury the stem?
Bury up to the first true leaves (the leaves that look like tomato leaves, not the smooth seed leaves). If the start is very tall or leggy, you can bury it deeper or even lay it at an angle — roots will form along the buried stem. Never bury the leaves themselves, as they will rot.
Do I need to add fertilizer when I plant?
If you worked compost or aged manure into the soil before planting, you do not need fertilizer yet. If you did not amend the soil, you can add a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) to the planting hole according to package directions. Start regular feeding once the plant flowers.
What if I plant in a container — do I need drainage holes?
Yes. Without drainage holes, water pools at the bottom and roots rot. Use a container with at least one hole in the bottom, and set it on a surface where water can drain away. A saucer under the pot will catch water but should not let the pot sit in it.