Plant tomatoes in Florida during the fall and winter, not spring and summer

Florida's heat and humidity make summer tomato growing nearly impossible—the plants will wilt, drop flowers, and produce little fruit once temperatures stay above 85°F at night. Instead, plant tomatoes in late August through September for a fall harvest, or in late January through February for a spring harvest. The sweet spot is fall planting, which gives you cooler nights in November and December when tomatoes actually set fruit.

Your location in Florida matters. North Florida (Jacksonville area) can plant slightly earlier in late August. Central Florida (Orlando area) should wait until early September. South Florida (Miami area) can plant as late as October and still get a good winter crop. Check your first frost date—tomatoes stop growing when temperatures drop below 50°F at night, so you want to harvest before that happens.

Key Takeaways

  • Plant tomatoes in Florida from late August through September for fall harvest, or late January through February for spring harvest—never in late spring or summer when heat stops fruit production.
  • Choose heat-tolerant varieties bred for warm climates, such as Heatwave II, Surefire, or Florida varieties, rather than standard garden-center tomatoes.
  • Florida's sandy soil drains too fast and lacks nutrients, so mix in compost or aged manure before planting and add mulch to hold moisture.
  • Water deeply and consistently—Florida's heat and sandy soil mean daily watering is normal during dry spells, and inconsistent watering causes blossom-end rot.
  • Plant in a location with at least six to eight hours of direct sun, and consider afternoon shade cloth in late summer to protect young plants from scorching.

Choose tomato varieties that tolerate Florida heat and humidity

Standard tomato varieties sold at most garden centers were bred for cooler climates and will not produce well in Florida. Look instead for heat-tolerant varieties developed specifically for warm regions. Heatwave II, Surefire, and Sunny are determinate (bush) types that set fruit even when nights are warm. For indeterminate (vining) types, try Florida, Floradade, or Homestead 24.

Cherry tomatoes like Sungold and Sweet 100 handle heat better than large slicing tomatoes, though they still produce best in fall and winter. If you want a large slicing tomato, Heatwave II is your most reliable choice. Avoid heirloom varieties like Brandywine or Mortgage Lifter in Florida—they need cool nights to set fruit and will disappoint you in summer.

Buy transplants (seedlings) rather than seeds if you are planting in late August or early September. Starting seeds indoors takes six to eight weeks, which means you would need to start them in June or July when Florida heat makes seed germination difficult. Transplants let you plant when ready when the weather cools.

Prepare Florida's sandy soil with compost and organic matter

Florida's native sandy soil drains so quickly that it cannot hold water or nutrients long enough for tomatoes to use them. Before planting, dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix the removed sand with compost, aged manure, or peat moss—aim for a 50-50 blend of sand and organic matter. This gives roots something to hold onto and keeps moisture in the soil longer.

If you are planting in a raised bed (which many Florida gardeners do), fill it with a mix of topsoil, compost, and aged manure rather than pure sand. A raised bed also warms up faster in fall, which helps transplants establish before cooler weather arrives. Add a two- to three-inch layer of mulch—straw, wood chips, or shredded leaves—around the base of each plant after planting. Mulch keeps the soil cooler and reduces water loss, which matters enormously in Florida's heat.

Do not use fresh manure, which can burn roots and introduce disease. Aged manure (at least six months old) is safe. If you cannot find aged manure, use composted kitchen scraps or bagged compost from a garden center.

Space plants correctly and support them as they grow

Plant tomato transplants 24 to 36 inches apart, depending on the variety. Determinate (bush) types need less space—24 inches is fine. Indeterminate (vining) types need 36 inches because they grow larger and need air circulation to prevent disease in Florida's humid air. Crowded plants trap moisture and invite fungal problems like early blight and septoria leaf spot.

Install a cage or stake at planting time rather than waiting until the plant is large. Pushing a stake through roots later damages them. Use sturdy cages at least five feet tall for indeterminate varieties—Florida tomatoes grow tall and heavy with fruit. Determinate types can use shorter cages or a straightforward stake with soft ties.

Bury the transplant deeper than it was growing in its pot. Tomatoes develop roots all along the buried stem, which creates a stronger plant. You can bury it up to the first true leaves if needed.

Water consistently and watch for blossom-end rot

Tomatoes need one to two inches of water per week, but Florida's sandy soil and heat mean you may need to water every day during dry spells. Water deeply at the base of the plant in the early morning—never overhead, which wets the leaves and encourages fungal disease in humid Florida air. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal because they deliver water directly to the roots.

Blossom-end rot is the most common tomato problem in Florida, and it is caused by inconsistent watering, not disease. The bottom of the fruit develops a dark, sunken spot. This happens when the plant cannot move enough calcium to the fruit because soil moisture fluctuates—wet one day, dry the next. Mulch helps prevent this by keeping soil moisture steady. If you see blossom-end rot on early fruit, do not panic—consistent watering will prevent it on new fruit.

In winter, when temperatures drop and growth slows, water less frequently. Check the soil before watering—if the top inch is still moist, wait another day.

Fertilize every two to three weeks once fruit appears

Florida's sandy soil does not hold nutrients, so tomatoes need regular feeding. Start with a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) when you plant. Once the plant flowers and begins setting fruit, switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium (like 5-10-10) to encourage fruiting rather than leafy growth.

explore fertilizer every two to three weeks according to the package directions. Liquid fertilizers work faster but need more frequent process. Granular fertilizers release slowly and need fewer applications. Avoid over-fertilizing with nitrogen, which produces lots of leaves but few tomatoes.

If leaves turn yellow and growth slows, the plant may need a micronutrient boost—Florida's sandy soil is often deficient in magnesium, calcium, and iron. A spray-on foliar fertilizer or Epsom salt (one tablespoon per plant, dissolved in water) can help. explore foliar spray in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid leaf burn.

Manage pests and diseases common in Florida

Whiteflies, spider mites, and hornworms are the most common tomato pests in Florida. Whiteflies cluster on the undersides of leaves and weaken the plant by sucking sap. Spray the undersides with insecticidal soap or neem oil every seven to ten days if you see them. Hornworms are large green caterpillars that eat leaves and fruit—hand-pick them or use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural insecticide.

Fungal diseases thrive in Florida's humidity. Early blight causes brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves. Septoria leaf spot causes small circular spots with dark borders. Both spread when leaves stay wet. Remove infected leaves, water at the base only, and space plants for air circulation. If disease is severe, spray with a copper fungicide every seven to ten days.

Fusarium and verticillium wilt are soil-borne diseases that cause sudden wilting and cannot be cured. The best defense is choosing resistant varieties (look for VF or VFN on the label) and rotating where you plant tomatoes each year—do not plant tomatoes in the same spot two years running.

Harvest tomatoes at the right stage for best flavor

Pick tomatoes when they are fully colored but still slightly firm—they will continue to ripen off the vine and taste better than tomatoes picked rock-hard. In Florida's heat, tomatoes ripen fast, so check plants every two to three days once fruit starts turning color.

If frost is forecast and you have green tomatoes still on the vine, pick them and place them in a paper bag indoors with a ripe banana or apple. The ethylene gas from the fruit speeds ripening. Green tomatoes will ripen to red in one to two weeks at room temperature.

Most fall-planted tomatoes stop producing by late December or early January as nights cool below 55°F. Spring-planted tomatoes stop producing by May as heat returns. This is normal—plant again in late August for the next fall crop.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I grow tomatoes in Florida during summer?

Not successfully. Tomatoes need nighttime temperatures below 85°F to set fruit. From June through August, Florida nights stay above 85°F, so flowers drop and fruit does not develop. Wait until late August to plant for fall harvest.

What is the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes?

Determinate (bush) types grow to a fixed size, produce most fruit at once, and stop growing. Indeterminate (vining) types grow continuously and produce fruit all season. In Florida, indeterminate varieties give you a longer harvest window because they keep producing through fall and winter.

Why are my tomato flowers dropping without making fruit?

Flowers drop when nighttime temperatures stay above 75°F or when the plant is stressed by heat, drought, or inconsistent watering. This is normal in Florida summer. Plant in fall instead, when nights are cooler and flowers will set fruit.

Do I need to prune tomato plants in Florida?

Light pruning helps. Remove suckers (shoots that grow between the main stem and branches) on indeterminate varieties to direct energy into fruit. Remove lower leaves once fruit appears to improve air circulation and reduce fungal disease. Do not strip all leaves—they protect fruit from sunscald.

How long does it take from planting to first harvest?

Transplants typically produce fruit in 50 to 80 days, depending on variety and temperature. Fall-planted tomatoes usually start producing in November or December. Spring-planted tomatoes produce in April and May before heat stops fruit set.