The most common tomato plant pests are deer, rabbits, groundhogs, and insects

Deer and rabbits cause the most visible damage to tomato plants in most regions. Deer browse the leaves and fruit from above, often stripping entire branches. Rabbits nibble leaves close to the ground and can kill young seedlings by eating them down to the stem. Groundhogs (also called woodchucks) eat leaves and dig under plants, damaging roots. Squirrels and chipmunks usually target ripe fruit rather than foliage, taking bites out of tomatoes on the vine.

Insects also damage tomato plants but in different ways. Hornworms are large green caterpillars that chew holes in leaves and can defoliate a plant in days. Aphids cluster on stems and leaves, sucking plant juices and leaving sticky residue. Spider mites create fine webbing and cause yellowing. Whiteflies congregate on the undersides of leaves. These insects rarely kill a mature plant but can stunt growth and reduce fruit quality.

Key Takeaways

  • Deer and rabbits cause the most damage to tomato plants in gardens, eating leaves and fruit from different heights depending on the species.
  • Fencing at least 6 feet tall stops deer; rabbit fencing needs to be 2 feet high and buried 6 inches underground to block burrowing.
  • Hornworms are the most destructive insect pest and can be removed by hand or treated with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural bacterial spray.
  • Netting over plants protects fruit from squirrels and birds, while row covers protect seedlings from rabbits and insects early in the season.

How to identify which animal is eating your tomato plants

Look at what part of the plant is damaged and how high the damage occurs. Deer leave ragged, torn edges on leaves and branches because they have no upper front teeth. They typically browse at heights of 4 to 6 feet. Rabbits make clean cuts with their teeth and damage occurs near ground level, usually within 2 feet. Groundhogs leave larger, more irregular holes and you may see a burrow entrance near the plant base.

Insect damage has distinct patterns. Hornworm damage appears as large, irregular holes with dark droppings (frass) on leaves below. Aphids leave sticky honeydew and yellowing. Spider mites create fine webbing and a stippled, yellowed appearance. If you see small bites taken out of ripe tomatoes but the plant itself looks healthy, squirrels or birds are the culprit.

Fencing and barriers that work against large animals

A fence at least 6 feet tall stops most deer, though determined deer can jump higher in some regions. The fence should be solid or have openings no larger than 6 inches, because deer can squeeze through gaps. Electric fencing is effective but requires maintenance and poses safety concerns around children and pets.

Rabbit fencing needs to be 2 feet high above ground and buried at least 6 inches deep, because rabbits dig under barriers. Use 1/4-inch hardware cloth or chicken wire for the underground portion. Groundhog fencing requires the same depth but should extend 3 feet above ground. For groundhogs, an L-shaped barrier works well: bury the fence 6 inches down, then bend it outward underground in an L to prevent tunneling under.

Row covers (lightweight fabric laid over plants and anchored at the edges) protect seedlings from rabbits and insects during early growth. Remove covers once plants flower so pollinators can reach the blooms.

Removing and controlling hornworms and other insects

Hornworms are large enough to hand-pick. Check the undersides of leaves and the tops of branches in early morning or late afternoon. Drop them into soapy water or crush them. One hornworm can eat an entire leaf in a day, so removing them early prevents major damage.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring soil bacterium that kills caterpillars, including hornworms. It is safe for humans, pets, and beneficial insects. Spray it on leaves according to package directions, usually every 7 to 10 days. Bt works best on young caterpillars; older hornworms are harder to kill.

For aphids and spider mites, spray the plant with a strong stream of water from a hose to knock them off. Repeat every few days. If infestation is heavy, insecticidal soap or neem oil can be used, following label directions. These products work best on soft-bodied insects like aphids and whiteflies.

Repellents and deterrents with mixed results

Deer repellents based on predator urine, capsaicin (hot pepper), or rotten egg smell work for some gardeners but not others. Effectiveness depends on how hungry the deer are and how many other food sources are nearby. Repellents must be reapplied after rain and every few weeks as plants grow. They are most useful as a temporary measure while you install fencing.

Motion-activated sprinklers startle animals but deer and rabbits may become accustomed to them over time. Noise makers and reflective tape have limited long-term success. Companion planting (growing plants deer dislike nearby, such as garlic or marigolds) may reduce browsing but is not reliable on its own.

Protecting ripe fruit from squirrels and birds

Netting draped over plants or individual tomato clusters prevents squirrels and birds from reaching ripe fruit. Use netting with holes no larger than 1/4 inch. find it to stakes or the cage so animals cannot push underneath. Remove netting once you finish harvesting to avoid trapping wildlife.

Harvesting tomatoes slightly early (when they show color but are not fully red) and ripening them indoors reduces losses to wildlife. Store them in a paper bag at room temperature away from direct sunlight. This also works if you are concerned about frost or want to pick before heavy rain.

When to call a professional or use lethal control

If you have a persistent groundhog or deer problem that fencing has not solved, a wildlife removal service can trap and relocate the animal. Check local regulations first—some areas require permits or have restrictions on relocation. Never attempt to poison large animals; it is inhumane and often illegal.

For severe insect infestations that organic methods have not controlled, a licensed pest control service can recommend options. However, most tomato plant insect problems can be managed with hand-picking, netting, or Bt without professional help.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do birds eat tomato plants?

Birds rarely eat tomato leaves or stems. They peck at ripe or ripening fruit, especially soft varieties. Netting over plants or harvesting fruit slightly early prevents bird damage. Some gardeners use bird netting or scare tape, though birds often become accustomed to these over time.

Can I use pesticides on tomato plants I plan to eat?

Yes, but only products labeled for tomatoes. Follow all label directions, including how many days before harvest you must wait. Organic options like Bt, insecticidal soap, and neem oil have shorter or no waiting periods. Always wash tomatoes before eating, regardless of what was sprayed.

What time of year do most animals damage tomato plants?

Large animals (deer and rabbits) browse year-round but cause the most noticeable damage in spring when seedlings are tender and in late summer when other food sources dry up. Insects peak in mid to late summer when temperatures are warm. Hornworms appear in mid-summer and can cause damage through early fall.

Will planting tomatoes in containers stop animals from eating them?

Containers on the ground do not stop rabbits or groundhogs. Deer can still reach fruit on plants in large containers. Raising containers on a deck or elevated platform keeps rabbits and groundhogs away but not deer. Containers are most useful combined with netting or fencing.

How do I know if my tomato plant damage is from disease instead of animals?

Animal damage shows bite marks, torn edges, or missing sections of leaf or fruit. Disease typically causes spots, discoloration, wilting, or mold. If you see the animal itself or fresh droppings near the plant, damage is from feeding. Insect damage often includes visible insects, webbing, or sticky residue.