Florida's Two Tomato Seasons, Not One

Florida has two distinct windows for planting tomatoes, not the single spring season most other states follow. You can plant tomatoes in late winter for a spring harvest (January through March in most of the state) or in late summer for a fall harvest (August through September). The reason is Florida's heat: tomatoes stop setting fruit when daytime temperatures stay above 90°F, which happens by May in most of Florida and lasts until September. Planting in the traditional spring window means your plants will produce for only a few weeks before the heat shuts them down.

The exact timing depends on which part of Florida you live in. North Florida (Jacksonville area) has a longer spring window and a shorter fall window. Central Florida (Orlando area) splits the difference. South Florida (Miami area) has a very short spring season but a longer fall season because temperatures stay warm longer into winter. Your local frost date is the hard boundary: you cannot plant tomatoes outdoors until after your last spring frost, and you must plant fall tomatoes early enough that they mature before the first fall frost.

Key Takeaways

  • North Florida plants tomatoes in January to early February for spring and August to early September for fall; South Florida plants in February to March for spring and July to August for fall.
  • Tomato plants stop producing fruit when daytime temperatures exceed 90°F consistently, which eliminates most of the summer in Florida.
  • Your local frost date sets the earliest you can plant in spring and the latest you can plant in fall—check your county's extension office for the exact date.
  • Fall tomatoes often produce better yields than spring tomatoes in Florida because they mature during the cooler months when fruit sets more reliably.

Spring Planting: January Through March

Spring planting in Florida happens much earlier than in northern states. In North Florida, you can plant transplants (not seeds) outdoors in late January, as long as the last frost date has passed. In Central Florida, late February is safer. In South Florida, early March is typical. The goal is to get plants in the ground early enough that they flower and set fruit before May heat arrives.

Plant from transplants, not seeds, because seeds take 6 to 8 weeks to reach planting size, and you do not have that much time. Buy transplants from a local nursery in January or February—they will be sized for when ready planting. Space them 24 to 36 inches apart in full sun (at least 6 to 8 hours daily) and water deeply after planting. Mulch around the base with 2 to 3 inches of wood chips to keep roots cool and retain moisture.

Spring crops in Florida are typically smaller than fall crops because the heat arrives quickly. Expect 4 to 8 weeks of good production before temperatures climb above 90°F during the day. Pick fruit as it begins to turn color and let it finish ripening indoors if necessary—this is normal in Florida and does not affect flavor.

Fall Planting: July Through September

Fall planting produces the better harvest in most of Florida. You plant in the heat of summer (July in South Florida, August in Central and North Florida) so that plants are established and flowering by October, when temperatures drop and fruit sets reliably. Fall tomatoes mature during the cool months, which means longer production and larger yields.

Again, use transplants rather than seeds. Plant in late July in South Florida, mid-August in Central Florida, and early September in North Florida. The exact date depends on your first fall frost date—you need at least 70 to 80 days from planting to first frost for the plant to produce a meaningful crop. Your county's University of Florida extension office publishes the frost date for your area; call them or check their website to confirm before you plant.

Fall-planted tomatoes need afternoon shade in South Florida because even in August and September, the sun can scald young fruit. Use a 30 to 50 percent shade cloth from planting through October, then remove it as temperatures cool. Water deeply and consistently—fall heat is dry, and inconsistent watering causes problems like blossom-end rot and fruit cracking.

Frost Dates and Your Planting Window

Your county's frost date is the hard boundary for both seasons. The last spring frost date is the latest date a frost can occur in spring; you cannot safely plant tomatoes outdoors before this date. The first fall frost date is the earliest date frost can occur in fall; you must plant early enough that your tomatoes mature before this date.

Frost dates vary by county and even by neighborhood. North Florida's last spring frost is typically mid-April; Central Florida's is mid-May; South Florida's is mid-February or later. Fall frost dates are roughly reversed: North Florida's first fall frost is mid-November, Central Florida's is late November, and South Florida's is mid-December or later. Do not guess. Contact your county's University of Florida Cooperative Extension office—they have the exact dates for your location and can tell you the best planting window for your area.

Variety Selection for Florida's Heat

Not all tomato varieties tolerate Florida's heat equally. Heat-tolerant varieties are essential for spring crops and helpful for fall crops. Look for varieties labeled "heat-tolerant" or "heat-set" at the nursery. Cherry tomatoes like 'Sungold' and 'Sweet 100' set fruit more reliably in heat than large slicing tomatoes. Paste tomatoes like 'San Marzano' struggle in Florida's spring heat but do well in fall.

For spring planting, choose varieties bred for warm climates: 'Heatwave II', 'Surefire', 'Florida 91', or 'Solimar'. For fall planting, you have more options because temperatures are cooler, but heat-tolerant varieties still perform better. Avoid cold-hardy varieties bred for northern states—they are designed for long, cool seasons and will not thrive in Florida's short spring window.

Soil Preparation and Watering

Florida's sandy soil drains quickly and holds few nutrients. Before planting, work 3 to 4 inches of compost or aged manure into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil. This improves water retention and adds organic matter that sandy soil lacks. If you are planting in a container, use a quality potting mix, not garden soil—containers dry out faster in Florida heat.

Water deeply and consistently. In spring, water when the top inch of soil feels dry—usually every 2 to 3 days. In fall, water more frequently because heat and dry air increase evaporation. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are better than overhead watering because they reduce disease pressure and deliver water directly to roots. Mulch around plants with 2 to 3 inches of wood chips to moderate soil temperature and reduce watering frequency.

Common Problems and When to Expect Them

Spring tomatoes often fail to set fruit even when flowers appear. This happens because nighttime temperatures below 55°F prevent pollination, and because daytime heat above 90°F causes pollen to become sterile. There is no fix—you straightforward accept a smaller spring crop. Fall tomatoes set fruit more reliably because temperatures stay in the ideal range (65°F to 85°F) for longer.

Blossom-end rot (dark, sunken spots on the bottom of fruit) occurs when watering is inconsistent. Keep soil moisture even—not soggy, but not dry. Fruit cracking happens when heavy rain follows a dry period; mulch and consistent watering prevent this. Fungal diseases like early blight and septoria leaf spot thrive in Florida's humidity. Space plants for air circulation, water at soil level rather than overhead, and remove lower leaves as the plant grows to improve airflow.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant tomatoes year-round in Florida?

No. Summer heat (June through August) stops fruit set, and winter frost (December through February in North Florida) kills plants. You are limited to spring and fall windows. South Florida has a longer fall window because frost arrives later, but even there, summer is too hot for productive plants.

Should I start seeds indoors or buy transplants?

Buy transplants. Seeds take 6 to 8 weeks to reach planting size, and Florida's planting windows are short. Transplants from a local nursery are ready to plant when ready and are already acclimated to Florida conditions. Starting seeds indoors is possible but adds complexity and risk in a short season.

What if I plant too late in the fall?

The plant will grow but may not produce fruit before frost kills it. Frost dates are not exact—they are the average date of the first frost, not a may provide. If you plant within 70 to 80 days of your first frost date, you have a reasonable chance of harvest. Plant later than that, and you are gambling.

Do I need to prune tomato plants in Florida?

Light pruning helps. Remove suckers (shoots that grow between the main stem and branches) to direct energy into fruit production. Remove lower leaves once the plant is 12 inches tall to improve airflow and reduce fungal disease. Do not strip the plant bare—leaves protect fruit from sunscald in spring and early fall.

Why do my spring tomatoes taste bland?

Heat stress reduces sugar content and flavor. Spring tomatoes in Florida mature quickly under stress and do not develop the same depth of flavor as fall tomatoes, which mature slowly in cool weather. Fall tomatoes are almost always better-tasting. If flavor is your priority, focus on the fall crop.