Plant tomatoes in Georgia between mid-March and early April for spring harvest, or in late July and August for a fall crop

Georgia's growing season splits into two windows because of the state's hot summers. Tomatoes planted in spring will produce through early summer, then struggle or stop setting fruit once temperatures stay above 90°F in July and August. A second planting in late summer lets you grow tomatoes again in the cooler fall months. The exact dates shift by a week or two depending on whether you live in north Georgia (cooler) or south Georgia (warmer), and whether you're planting seeds indoors or transplants outdoors.

The safest approach is to count backward from your area's last spring frost date and forward from your first fall frost date. North Georgia's last frost is typically around May 1; south Georgia's is around April 1. Your first fall frost arrives around November 1 in the north and November 15 in the south. Tomatoes need soil that has warmed to at least 60°F, and they grow best when it's between 70°F and 85°F.

Key Takeaways

  • Spring tomatoes go in the ground in mid-March to early April in Georgia, after the last frost date and when soil has warmed to at least 60°F.
  • Fall tomatoes are planted in late July through August so they mature before the first frost arrives in November.
  • Transplants (seedlings from a nursery) go in the ground faster than seeds started indoors, which need 6 to 8 weeks before they're ready to move outside.
  • Tomatoes stop setting fruit when temperatures stay above 90°F, which is why a fall crop is necessary in Georgia to avoid a long gap with no harvest.
  • Soil temperature matters as much as air temperature—use a soil thermometer to confirm the ground has warmed before planting.

Spring planting: mid-March to early April

For a spring crop, plant transplants outdoors between mid-March and early April. This timing gets tomatoes in the ground after the worst frost risk has passed but while nights are still cool enough that the plants won't bolt or stop flowering. If you're starting from seed indoors, begin seeds in late January or early February so they're 6 to 8 weeks old and ready to transplant by mid-March.

Check your soil temperature before planting, not just the air temperature. Tomato roots won't absorb water or nutrients well in cold soil, and the plant will sit stunted for weeks. A soil thermometer (available at any garden center) should read at least 60°F; 70°F is better. In north Georgia, soil usually reaches 60°F by late March. In south Georgia, it often gets there by early March. If you plant too early and a frost comes, row covers or frost cloth can protect young plants for a night or two, but it's easier to wait.

Fall planting: late July through August

Plant fall tomatoes between late July and mid-August. This seems backward—planting in summer heat—but it works because tomatoes planted then will mature in September and October when temperatures drop into the ideal range. A tomato planted August 1 will flower and set fruit in September, when nights are 60°F to 70°F and days are 80°F to 85°F. That's when tomatoes produce the most fruit and the best flavor.

Fall tomatoes must mature before your area's first frost. In north Georgia, that's around November 1; in south Georgia, around November 15. Count backward: a tomato variety that takes 70 days from transplant to first ripe fruit needs to go in the ground by late August in the north, or early September in the south. Check the seed packet or plant label for the "days to maturity" number. If it says 75 days and your first frost is November 1, plant by August 17 at the latest.

Fall tomatoes also need less water than spring tomatoes because rainfall increases in September and October. However, they're more vulnerable to pests and diseases because humidity is higher. Watch for early blight (brown spots on lower leaves) and pick off affected leaves as soon as you see them.

Choosing between seeds and transplants

Seeds take longer but cost less and give you more variety. Transplants (also called seedlings or starts) are ready to plant when ready and skip the indoor seed-starting step. For spring planting, most home gardeners buy transplants from a nursery in March and plant them directly outdoors. For fall planting, transplants are harder to find because nurseries stop stocking them in summer, so you may need to start seeds yourself in June or early July.

If you start seeds indoors, use a seed-starting mix (not garden soil), keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and provide 14 to 16 hours of light per day under a grow light or in a bright window. Seedlings are ready to transplant outdoors when they have their first true leaves (the second set of leaves that appear) and are 3 to 4 inches tall. Harden them off by moving them outside to a sheltered spot for a few hours each day for a week before planting them in the garden.

Soil preparation before planting

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and need rich soil. Before planting, mix 2 to 3 inches of compost or aged manure into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil. If your soil is clay (common in Georgia), add compost to improve drainage; tomatoes rot if water pools around the roots. If you're planting in the same spot year after year, rotate to a different area if possible to reduce disease buildup.

At planting time, bury the stem deeper than it was growing in the pot—tomatoes will root along the buried stem and develop a stronger root system. You can bury up to the first true leaves. Add a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) or a tomato-specific fertilizer according to the package directions. Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen, or you'll get lots of leaves and few tomatoes.

Protecting spring tomatoes from late frosts

Even though you plant after the average last frost date, a surprise frost can still arrive in April. Keep row covers, frost cloth, or old blankets nearby. If frost is forecast, drape the cover over the plants in the evening and remove it the next morning when temperatures rise. Water the plants before covering them—moist soil holds heat better than dry soil. A light frost (32°F to 35°F) for a few hours usually won't kill established transplants, but it will damage tender new growth.

If a frost does damage the foliage, don't pull the plant out. Tomatoes often recover and send out new growth within a week or two. The delay will push your harvest back, but the plant will survive.

Variety selection for Georgia's two seasons

Not all tomato varieties perform equally in both seasons. For spring planting, choose varieties that tolerate heat well and stop flowering before July temperatures peak. 'Sungold', 'Early Girl', 'Celebrity', and 'Brandywine' are reliable in north Georgia. In south Georgia, heat-tolerant varieties like 'Heatwave II', 'Phoenix', and 'Surefire' are better choices.

For fall planting, choose varieties with shorter days to maturity (60 to 70 days) so they finish before the first frost. 'Early Girl', 'Glacier', 'Siberia', and 'Stupice' are cold-tolerant and mature quickly. Avoid long-season varieties like 'Brandywine' for fall planting in Georgia—they won't have time to ripen before frost.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant tomatoes in May in Georgia?

You can, but it's not ideal. Tomatoes planted in May will flower in June and July when temperatures are already climbing toward 90°F. Many flowers will drop without setting fruit, and you'll lose weeks of production. Spring planting works best in March and early April.

What if I miss the fall planting window?

If it's September and you haven't planted yet, check your first frost date and the days to maturity on the seed packet. If you have fewer than 60 days before frost, the tomatoes won't have time to produce. Wait until spring instead.

Do I need to start seeds indoors for fall tomatoes?

Yes, usually. Nurseries stop selling transplants in summer, so you'll need to start seeds indoors in June or early July. Plant seeds in a seed tray, keep them warm and moist, and transplant outdoors in late July or August when they're 3 to 4 inches tall.

Will tomatoes survive a Georgia winter?

No. Tomatoes are killed by frost. Even a light frost (32°F) will damage the plant. Harvest all fruit before the first frost date, even if it's still green. Green tomatoes will ripen indoors on a windowsill over a few weeks.

How deep should I plant a tomato transplant?

Bury the stem up to the first true leaves. Tomatoes will root along the buried stem, creating a stronger root system. This deeper planting also anchors the plant better as it grows tall.