Plant tomatoes in central Florida in late February through March for spring harvest, or in late August through September for fall harvest

Central Florida's warm climate lets you grow tomatoes twice a year, but the timing is opposite to most of the country. The spring window runs from late February through March — plant too early and frost will kill seedlings, plant too late and heat arrives before fruit sets. The fall window runs from late August through September, when summer heat finally breaks and soil temperatures drop below 90 degrees. Miss these windows and you will spend months fighting heat stress, blossom-end rot, and insects that thrive in Florida's humidity.

The reason for two seasons is straightforward: tomatoes need nighttime temperatures between 55 and 75 degrees to set fruit. Central Florida's summers are too hot — daytime highs regularly exceed 90 degrees from June through September, which causes flowers to drop before they become fruit. Winter freezes (December through January) kill most varieties outright. The spring and fall windows are the only times when temperatures stay in the sweet spot long enough for a full harvest.

Key Takeaways

  • Spring planting happens in late February or March; transplants go in the ground after the last frost date (around February 15 in central Florida) but before mid-March heat arrives.
  • Fall planting happens in late August or September; seeds or transplants must be in the ground early enough to mature before the first frost (around November 15).
  • Nighttime temperatures above 75 degrees prevent fruit set, so planting after mid-March in spring or before late August in fall will result in flowers but no tomatoes.
  • Determinate varieties (bush types that fruit all at once) work better for fall because they finish before frost; indeterminate varieties (vining types that fruit continuously) suit spring because they have time to produce through May.
  • Soil temperature matters as much as air temperature — wait until soil reaches at least 60 degrees in spring, and plant fall crops when soil drops below 85 degrees.

Spring Planting: Late February Through March

The spring window is narrow. Transplants should go in the ground between late February and March 15. Central Florida's average last frost date is around February 15, which means frost can still occur after that date — it just becomes less likely. Planting in early March gives you a safety margin: the seedlings are established enough to survive a late frost, but still have time to grow before heat stress hits in late April.

Soil temperature is the real gate. Tomato roots do not absorb water or nutrients well below 60 degrees, so even if the air is warm, a cold soil will stunt the plant. Check soil temperature with a straightforward thermometer pushed 4 inches deep in the morning. If it reads below 60 degrees, wait another week. Planting into cold soil is the most common reason spring tomatoes sit dormant for weeks instead of taking off.

Spring tomatoes will produce through May and into early June if you choose indeterminate varieties (the vining types that keep growing and flowering). Determinate varieties (bush types that fruit all at once) finish faster and are less useful in spring because you will have already harvested everything before summer heat arrives. By late June, heat stress shuts down fruit production regardless of variety, so plan for a four-month harvest window, not longer.

Fall Planting: Late August Through September

Fall planting is trickier because you are racing the clock toward frost. Transplants must go in by early September at the latest — ideally by late August. A tomato plant needs 60 to 85 days from transplant to first ripe fruit, depending on variety. If you plant in late September, the plant will still be flowering when frost arrives in mid-November, and you will lose the crop before it ripens.

Soil temperature in late August is still very high — often 85 degrees or above. Tomato roots struggle in soil that warm, and seeds will not germinate reliably. Wait until soil temperature drops to 80 degrees or below before planting. This usually happens in the last week of August or first week of September. If you plant too early into hot soil, the transplant will sit stunted and stressed, wasting the weeks you cannot afford to lose.

Determinate varieties are the right choice for fall because they fruit all at once and finish before frost. An indeterminate variety planted in late August will still be flowering when frost hits, leaving you with green tomatoes you cannot ripen. Choose a variety that matures in 60 to 70 days, not 80 or 90. Varieties like 'Bush Early Girl', 'Siletz', and 'Mountain Fresh' are reliable for central Florida fall crops.

Frost Dates and Temperature Thresholds

Central Florida's average last spring frost is February 15; the average first fall frost is November 15. These are averages, not guarantees. Frost can occur weeks earlier or later depending on the year. Check your specific location using the National Weather Service or a local university extension office — frost dates vary by 5 to 10 days depending on whether you are in the hills or near a lake.

Tomato plants die when exposed to temperatures below 32 degrees for more than a few hours. Seedlings are more vulnerable than established plants. A frost in early March can kill a young transplant outright, while a mature plant in May might survive a light frost with only leaf damage. This is why spring planting has an upper time limit: if you plant too late, a surprise frost in late February or early March will destroy the crop before it is established.

For fall crops, the first frost date is your hard important date. Count backward 70 days from November 15 to find your latest planting date — that puts you at early September. Planting after that date means the plant will not have time to mature before frost, no matter how fast the variety is.

Heat Stress and Blossom-End Rot in Summer

Tomatoes stop setting fruit when nighttime temperatures stay above 75 degrees. Central Florida's nighttime lows climb above 75 degrees in late April and do not drop below that threshold again until late September. This is why there is no summer tomato season in central Florida — the plant will keep growing and flowering, but the flowers will drop without forming fruit. You will have a large, healthy plant with no tomatoes.

Blossom-end rot is a calcium deficiency that appears as a dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the fruit. It happens when soil dries out between waterings, preventing the plant from absorbing calcium. In central Florida's heat, soil dries fast, and blossom-end rot is common in spring crops that are still producing in May and June. Mulch heavily (3 to 4 inches of wood chips) and water deeply and consistently to prevent it. Once the spot appears, that fruit cannot be saved — remove it and focus on preventing it in new fruit.

Choosing Varieties for Each Season

Spring varieties should be indeterminate (vining) and heat-tolerant. 'Sungold', 'Brandywine', and 'Cherokee Purple' are popular, but they are not heat-tolerant — they will stop producing by June. Better choices for central Florida spring are 'Heatwave II', 'Surefire', and 'Phoenix'. These were bred to tolerate heat and will keep producing longer into late spring.

Fall varieties should be determinate (bush) and fast-maturing. 'Bush Early Girl', 'Siletz', 'Mountain Fresh', and 'Stupice' all mature in 60 to 75 days and will finish before frost. Avoid large slicing tomatoes like 'Beefsteak' — they take 80+ days and will not ripen in time. Cherry tomatoes like 'Sungold' can work if planted very early (late August), but they are riskier than determinate paste or salad types.

Soil Preparation and Watering

Central Florida soil is often sandy and drains quickly, which means it does not hold water or nutrients well. Before planting, work 2 to 3 inches of compost or aged manure into the top 8 inches of soil. This improves water retention and adds organic matter that feeds the plant over the season. If your soil is very sandy, consider building a raised bed 12 inches deep and filling it with a mix of compost, peat moss, and garden soil.

Water deeply and consistently — tomatoes need 1 to 2 inches per week, more in spring and fall when temperatures are high. Water in the early morning so foliage dries quickly and reduces disease pressure. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are better than overhead sprinklers because they keep water off the leaves. In central Florida's humidity, wet foliage invites fungal diseases like early blight and septoria leaf spot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant tomatoes in January in central Florida?

No. January soil is too cold (usually 50 to 55 degrees), and frost risk is high. Seedlings will sit dormant and may rot before they grow. Wait until late February when soil reaches 60 degrees and frost risk drops sharply.

What happens if I plant tomatoes in June or July?

The plant will grow but will not set fruit. Nighttime temperatures are above 75 degrees, which causes flowers to drop. You will have a large plant with no tomatoes by August. Wait until late August to plant for fall harvest.

Do I need to start seeds indoors or can I direct-seed?

Direct-seeding (planting seeds straight in the ground) works for fall crops if soil temperature is below 80 degrees, but germination is slow and uneven. Starting seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before planting gives you stronger transplants and more control. For spring, start seeds indoors in December or buy transplants from a nursery in February.

Will a light frost kill my spring tomato plants?

Young transplants (less than 4 weeks old) will die in a frost below 32 degrees. Established plants with thick stems may survive a light frost with only leaf damage. If frost is forecast after you have planted, cover the plants with blankets or row covers overnight and remove them in the morning.

Can I grow tomatoes year-round in a greenhouse or shade house?

Yes, but you will need to control temperature and humidity. A shade house (30 to 50 percent shade cloth) can extend the spring season into early summer and the fall season into early winter by keeping temperatures lower. A heated greenhouse can support winter tomatoes, but central Florida's winter light is low, so growth will be slow.