Plant tomatoes in Georgia between mid-March and early April for spring harvest, or in late July and August for a fall crop

Georgia's long growing season lets you plant tomatoes twice a year, but the timing depends on which harvest you want. Spring tomatoes go in the ground when soil temperatures reach 60°F consistently—usually mid-March in south Georgia and early April in the north. Fall tomatoes need to be planted by late August at the latest so they mature before the first frost, which typically arrives in late October or early November depending on your location.

The reason timing matters is frost. Tomato plants die when exposed to temperatures below 50°F, and seedlings are even more sensitive. Plant too early in spring and a late frost will kill them. Plant too late in fall and your tomatoes won't have enough warm days to ripen before cold weather arrives. Knowing your local frost dates—available from your county extension office—takes the guesswork out of both seasons.

Key Takeaways

  • Spring tomatoes in Georgia go in the ground between mid-March and early April, depending on whether you live in the warmer south or cooler north of the state.
  • Soil temperature must reach 60°F before planting; use a soil thermometer rather than guessing based on air temperature alone.
  • Fall tomatoes must be planted by late August so they mature before the first frost, which varies from late October in the north to early November in the south.
  • Hardening off seedlings—gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over 7 to 10 days—prevents transplant shock and increases survival rates.
  • Your county extension office can tell you your exact local frost dates, which are more reliable than statewide averages.

Spring planting: mid-March to early April

In south Georgia (zones 8b–9a), soil warms to 60°F by mid-March most years. In central Georgia (zone 8a), aim for late March. In north Georgia (zone 7b–8a), wait until early April. These dates assume you are planting transplants—seedlings started indoors 6 to 8 weeks earlier—not seeds directly in the ground. Direct seeding takes longer to germinate and is riskier in spring because soil stays cool longer.

Check soil temperature with a straightforward soil thermometer pushed 4 inches into the ground, measured in the morning before the sun heats it. If the reading is below 60°F, wait another week. Planting into cold soil causes seeds to rot and transplants to sit dormant, wasting time and inviting disease. A soil temperature of 65°F or higher is ideal for faster root development and stronger growth.

Watch the 10-day forecast before planting. If a hard freeze is predicted within two weeks of your planting date, delay. A single night below 32°F will kill young tomato plants. If you have already planted and frost is forecast, cover plants with blankets or row covers the night before, removing them the next morning when temperatures rise above 50°F.

Fall planting: late July through August

Fall tomatoes are planted much later than spring ones because you are working backward from your first frost date. Count back 70 to 85 days from your expected first frost to find your latest planting date. In south Georgia, the first frost typically arrives around November 1, so plant by late August. In central Georgia, expect frost around October 20, so plant by early August. In north Georgia, frost can arrive as early as October 10, so plant by mid-July.

Fall planting is trickier than spring because you are planting into heat. Seedlings and seeds both struggle in soil above 85°F. If you are starting from seed indoors, begin in late June or early July so transplants are ready to go in the ground by late July. If you are buying transplants, choose ones that are not yet flowering—they establish roots faster than plants already setting fruit.

Water fall tomatoes more frequently than spring ones because heat and lower humidity cause soil to dry faster. Mulch around plants with 2 to 3 inches of straw or wood chips to keep soil cooler and retain moisture. As temperatures drop in September and October, reduce watering slightly but do not let soil dry out completely.

Hardening off seedlings before planting

Whether you start seeds indoors or buy transplants, seedlings need to adjust to outdoor conditions before going in the ground. This process, called hardening off, takes 7 to 10 days. Start by placing seedlings in a sheltered spot outdoors for 2 to 3 hours on the first day, then gradually increase exposure to sun and wind each day. By day 7 or 8, they should be outside all day. Leave them out overnight only if temperatures stay above 50°F.

Skipping this step causes transplant shock—wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth that can set plants back by weeks. Seedlings grown indoors under lights are soft and tender; outdoor sun, wind, and temperature swings are a shock to their system. Hardening off toughens them up so they bounce back quickly after transplanting.

Soil preparation before planting

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and need rich, well-draining soil. Before planting, work 2 to 3 inches of compost or aged manure into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil. If your soil is clay-heavy—common in much of Georgia—add compost to improve drainage; tomatoes in waterlogged soil develop root rot and fungal diseases.

Test your soil pH if possible. Tomatoes prefer soil between 6.0 and 6.8. If your soil is more acidic, add lime; if it is more alkaline, add sulfur. Your county extension office offers inexpensive soil testing. Even without a test, adding compost improves both pH and structure over time.

Space transplants 24 to 36 inches apart depending on variety—determinate (bush) types need less space, indeterminate (vining) types need more. Dig a hole slightly deeper than the root ball and plant so the lowest leaves are just above soil level. Tomatoes can develop roots along buried stems, which strengthens the plant.

Protecting plants from late spring frost

Even if you time spring planting correctly, a surprise frost can still occur. Georgia's last frost date is an average, not a may provide. Keep row covers, blankets, or frost cloth on hand during March and April. If frost is forecast, cover plants in late afternoon before temperatures drop, and remove covers the next morning once the sun is up and temperatures climb above 50°F.

Water plants the day before frost is predicted. Moist soil holds heat better than dry soil and provides some protection. Do not fertilize right before frost; new tender growth is more frost-sensitive than established foliage.

Choosing varieties for Georgia's two seasons

Some tomato varieties perform better in spring, others in fall. For spring planting, choose varieties that set fruit reliably in warm weather and resist early-season diseases like early blight. 'Sungold', 'Brandywine', and 'Cherokee Purple' are popular in Georgia. For fall planting, choose varieties that mature quickly—60 to 75 days—so they finish before frost. 'Early Girl', 'Stupice', and 'Glacier' are reliable fall choices.

Check the seed packet or plant label for days to maturity. In fall, subtract that number from your first frost date to confirm the variety will finish in time. A 90-day variety planted August 1 with a first frost on October 20 will not ripen in time; choose something faster.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant tomatoes in February in Georgia?

Not safely. Soil is still too cold in February, and frost is likely. Wait until mid-March in south Georgia or early April in the north. Planting too early causes seeds to rot and transplants to sit dormant, wasting weeks.

What if I miss the fall planting window?

If it is September and you have not planted, you have likely missed the window for most of Georgia. Count back 70 days from your first frost date; if fewer than 70 days remain, a full-size tomato plant will not mature. You can still try fast varieties like 'Early Girl', but success is not certain. Next year, mark your calendar for late July planting.

Do I need to start seeds indoors or can I buy transplants?

Buying transplants from a nursery is simpler and works well. Starting seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before planting gives you more variety choices and costs less if you are planting many plants. Either way, harden off seedlings before planting.

How do I know my exact first frost date?

Contact your county extension office—they have frost date data specific to your location. You can also search online for your city name and "first frost date." Dates vary by elevation and proximity to water, so a local source is more accurate than a statewide average.

Should I plant tomatoes in containers or in the ground?

Both work in Georgia. Containers warm up faster in spring, which can let you plant a week or two earlier. They also drain better, reducing disease risk. Use containers at least 5 gallons for determinate varieties, 10 gallons for indeterminate types. In fall, containers cool down faster, which can shorten your growing window slightly.