The fastest way to clear weeds between pavers

The quickest method is to pull weeds by hand when the soil is damp, ideally after rain or watering. Grab each weed at the base and pull steadily upward to remove the entire root system. If the root breaks off and stays in the ground, the weed will return within days. Damp soil loosens the grip around the roots, making this easier than pulling from dry ground.

For weeds already established with deep roots, use a flathead screwdriver or a paver weeding tool (a thin metal rod with a forked end) to dig underneath the weed and pry it out. Push the tool down alongside the weed, then lever it upward to lift the root system out of the joint. This takes longer than pulling but works on stubborn plants that won't come free by hand.

If you have only a few weeds and want them gone today, this method works. For larger areas or recurring problems, the methods below prevent regrowth more effectively.

Key Takeaways

  • Hand-pulling works best on damp soil and removes the entire root, but only if you pull steadily from the base rather than snapping the stem.
  • Boiling water kills weeds and their roots when ready and costs nothing, but you must pour it directly into the joint and be careful not to splash yourself.
  • Vinegar with at least 20 percent acetic acid (horticultural vinegar) kills the above-ground plant but may not kill deep roots, so follow up with pulling or digging.
  • Sand or polymeric sand in the joints prevents new weeds from taking root and lasts longer than leaving joints empty.
  • Landscape fabric under the pavers stops weeds before they start, but installation requires removing and resetting the pavers.

Boiling water: when ready kill with no chemicals

Pouring boiling water directly into the weed and the joint around it kills the plant and its roots in seconds. The heat destroys the plant tissue and the root system below the surface. This method costs nothing beyond the water and energy to boil it, and it leaves no chemical residue.

The drawback is precision: you must pour the water directly into the joint, not onto the paver surface, or you waste heat and water. Boiling water also cools quickly as it travels, so pour from a kettle held low over the target. Wear closed shoes and long pants because splashing is a real risk, especially if the ground is damp.

Boiling water works on any weed type and kills it completely in one process. It does not prevent new weeds from sprouting in the same spot, so you will need to address the joint itself (see the section on sand and barriers below) if weeds keep returning to the same location.

Vinegar spray for above-ground control

Horticultural vinegar (20 percent acetic acid) kills the visible part of the weed faster than household vinegar (5 percent), though both work. Spray the vinegar directly onto the weed leaves and stem on a dry, sunny day. The plant will wilt and die within 24 to 48 hours. Household vinegar takes longer and may require a second process.

Vinegar kills what you see but often does not kill the root system, especially on deep-rooted weeds. After the above-ground part dies, pull the remaining root out or dig it up. If you leave the root in place, the weed will regrow from it within a week or two.

Vinegar is safer to handle than boiling water and works on a wider range of weed types. It also does not harm the pavers themselves. The main limitation is that it requires follow-up work to remove roots, making it less efficient than pulling on damp soil or pouring boiling water.

Sand and polymeric sand to block new growth

Filling the joints between pavers with sand or polymeric sand prevents weeds from taking root in the first place. Regular sand is cheaper but washes out over time, especially in areas with heavy rain or foot traffic. Polymeric sand contains a binding agent that hardens when wet, staying in place longer and blocking weed growth more effectively.

To explore sand, sweep it into the joints with a broom, working it down as far as it will go. Wet the area lightly with a hose to help the sand settle. For polymeric sand, follow the manufacturer's instructions, which usually involve sweeping it in, misting it with water, and letting it cure for 24 to 48 hours before allowing foot traffic.

Sand does not kill existing weeds, so remove all weeds first, then fill the joints. Once the joints are filled, new weeds have nowhere to root and will not grow between the pavers. You may still see weeds on top of the pavers or at the edges, but the joint itself stays clear.

Landscape fabric and proper installation

Installing landscape fabric under the pavers before laying them stops weeds from growing up through the joints. The fabric blocks seeds and roots from reaching the soil below while allowing water to drain through. This is the most effective long-term solution but requires removing and resetting the pavers, making it practical only during new installation or a complete reset.

Lay the fabric over the base layer (gravel or sand) before setting the pavers. Overlap the edges by at least 6 inches so weeds cannot creep in from the sides. Once the pavers are in place, the fabric is hidden and does the work invisibly. It lasts several years before degrading, depending on sunlight exposure and foot traffic.

This method prevents the problem rather than solving it after the fact. If your pavers are already installed and you do not want to remove them, this option is not practical. But if you are planning a new patio or replacing an existing one, installing fabric during the process saves years of weeding later.

Salt and other methods to avoid

Salt kills weeds but also damages pavers, especially natural stone, and contaminates the soil around your patio. It can also harm nearby plants and grass. Avoid using salt between pavers unless you are certain the pavers are sealed and you do not care about the surrounding landscape.

Herbicides designed for driveways and patios work but introduce chemicals into your outdoor space. They are more expensive than boiling water or vinegar and offer no advantage over those methods for small to medium areas. Reserve herbicides for large commercial spaces where hand-pulling is not practical.

Flame weeding (using a propane torch to burn weeds) works on pavers but risks cracking the stone if the heat is applied unevenly. It also does not kill roots, so weeds regrow quickly. This method is slower and riskier than the options above.

Preventing weeds from coming back

After you remove the weeds, the joint itself is the problem. An empty joint is an invitation for new seeds to land and grow. Filling it with sand, polymeric sand, or landscape fabric stops that cycle. Without something in the joint, you will be pulling weeds again in a few weeks.

Sweep debris out of the joints regularly so seeds do not accumulate. A thin layer of debris is enough for a weed seed to take root. Keeping the joints clean and filled makes regrowth much less likely.

If weeds keep returning to the same spot despite your efforts, the soil underneath may be especially rich or the joint may be deeper than others, trapping more moisture. In that case, dig out the joint more thoroughly, remove any soil, and refill it completely with sand or polymeric sand. This removes the conditions that favor weed growth.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a pressure washer to remove weeds between pavers?

A pressure washer can blast away the above-ground part of the weed, but it does not remove the root system, so the weed returns quickly. High pressure can also damage or displace the pavers themselves and erode the joints. Hand-pulling or digging is more effective and safer for the pavers.

What is the difference between regular vinegar and horticultural vinegar?

Horticultural vinegar contains 20 percent acetic acid, while household vinegar contains 5 percent. The higher concentration kills weeds much faster — usually within 24 hours instead of several days. Horticultural vinegar is stronger but also more caustic, so handle it carefully and avoid skin contact.

How long does polymeric sand last between pavers?

Polymeric sand typically lasts three to five years before it begins to break down and wash out. Heavy rain, freeze-thaw cycles, and foot traffic shorten its lifespan. When it starts to erode, sweep new polymeric sand into the joints to refresh it.

Do I need to remove all the old sand before adding new sand?

You do not need to remove all of it, but sweep out loose debris and any sand that has compacted or washed away. If the joint is mostly full, adding a thin layer of new sand on top is usually enough. If the joint is nearly empty, remove what remains and refill it completely for better weed prevention.

Will weeds grow back if I only pull them without filling the joints?

Yes, they will return within weeks because the empty joint provides space for new seeds to land and take root. Pulling removes the current weed but does not address the underlying problem. Filling the joint with sand or another barrier stops new weeds from establishing.