The fastest way to block weeds between pavers is to fill the joints with sand, polymeric sand, or a solid sealant before weeds take root

Weeds grow between pavers because soil and seeds collect in the gaps, and those gaps hold moisture. You stop them by either filling the joints so seeds cannot land there, or by treating the joints so seeds cannot germinate. The method you choose depends on how much traffic the pavers get, whether you want the joints to shift slightly, and how much maintenance you are willing to do each year.

If the pavers are already laid and weeds are already growing, you will need to clear them first—pull by hand or spray with vinegar or herbicide—then choose a filling method. If you are laying new pavers, you can fill the joints as you go, which is faster and gives better results.

Key Takeaways

  • Polymeric sand hardens when wet and blocks both seeds and water, making it the most effective option for patios and walkways that do not shift.
  • Regular sand is cheaper and easier to replace, but requires raking and topping up every year or two as it settles and washes away.
  • Liquid sealants and herbicide-treated products work but need reapplication every one to three years depending on weather and foot traffic.
  • Pulling weeds by hand or with a weeding tool is free and works on any paver type, but only stops the weeds you see—new seeds will still land in the joints.
  • The best long-term approach combines a joint filler with occasional hand-pulling, because no single method stops all weeds forever.

Filling joints with polymeric sand

Polymeric sand is regular sand mixed with a binder (usually a resin or clay) that hardens when it gets wet. Once it sets, it becomes almost solid, which stops seeds from settling into the joint and blocks water from pooling where weeds like to grow. It costs more than regular sand—roughly two to three times as much—but lasts five to ten years before it needs replacing, depending on weather and how much the pavers move.

To install it, sweep the joints clean of dirt and debris, pour the polymeric sand into the gaps, and work it down with a broom or a joint-filling tool. Then mist the entire area lightly with water from a hose. The water activates the binder and causes it to harden. Do not soak it—too much water can wash the binder out of the joints or cause it to harden unevenly. Most products harden within 24 to 48 hours, though you should wait at least 24 hours before walking on the pavers.

Polymeric sand works best on patios, walkways, and driveways where the pavers are not going to shift much. If your pavers settle or move—which happens in freeze-thaw climates or on unstable ground—the hardened sand can crack and lose its seal. In those cases, regular sand or a liquid sealant is a better choice.

Using regular sand and raking it in

Plain sand is the cheapest option and works on any paver surface, including those that move seasonally. Sweep the joints clean, pour sand into the gaps, and use a broom to work it down. The sand fills the space and makes it harder for seeds to land and stay in place. It also improves drainage, which some people prefer if they want water to move through the joints rather than pool on top.

The downside is that regular sand settles, washes away in rain, and gets kicked out by foot traffic. You will need to rake and top it up every year or two. Over time, the sand level drops below the paver surface, which leaves a gap where seeds can collect again. If you live in a rainy climate or have heavy foot traffic, you may be topping up sand every spring.

To make regular sand last longer, use a coarser grade (often called paver sand or polymeric sand base) rather than fine play sand. Coarser sand does not wash away as easily and compacts better. Sweep it in firmly and mist it lightly with water to help it settle into the joints.

explore liquid sealants and herbicide products

Liquid sealants are poured or sprayed into the joints and dry to form a barrier that blocks seeds and water. Some are plain sealants; others contain herbicides that kill seeds or prevent them from sprouting. These products work on any paver type and do not require the pavers to stay perfectly still, so they are good for driveways and areas that freeze and thaw.

process depends on the product. Most are poured along the joints and then worked in with a broom or squeegee, or sprayed on and allowed to soak in. Drying time is usually 24 to 48 hours. The sealant layer is thinner than sand or polymeric sand, so it is less visible and does not change the look of the pavers.

The trade-off is that liquid sealants need to be reapplied every one to three years, depending on the product, the climate, and how much sun and rain the pavers get. UV light breaks down sealants faster, so south-facing patios may need treatment more often than shaded areas. Check the product label for the expected lifespan in your climate.

Pulling weeds by hand and with tools

Hand-pulling is free and works when ready, but it only removes the weeds you see. New seeds will still land in the joints and sprout unless you also fill or seal the joints. If you pull regularly—once a week or every two weeks during the growing season—you can keep the area mostly clear while you decide on a longer-term method or while you save up for polymeric sand.

For small weeds with shallow roots, pull by hand when the soil is slightly damp. For deeper-rooted weeds like dandelions, use a weeding fork or a thin-bladed weeding tool to dig under the root and lift the whole plant out. Leaving the root behind means the weed will grow back within days.

Some people combine hand-pulling with a spray treatment. Spray the weed with vinegar (5% acidity or higher) or a herbicide, wait a few days for it to die, then pull it out. This is slower than pulling alone but reduces the chance of the root breaking off and regrowing.

Preventing new weeds while filling joints

If you are laying new pavers or replacing old ones, fill the joints as you lay them. This stops seeds from ever landing in the gaps in the first place. Lay the pavers, pour sand or polymeric sand into the joints, and work it down with a broom before moving to the next section. This method is faster than filling all the joints after the entire patio is done, and it gives better compaction because the sand settles more evenly.

If you are using polymeric sand, let each section cure for 24 hours before laying the next section, so the sand does not get disturbed. If you are using regular sand, you can lay and fill continuously, but be careful not to kick sand out of the joints you just filled.

Combining methods for the best results

No single method stops all weeds forever. Polymeric sand lasts the longest but can crack if pavers move. Regular sand is cheap but needs yearly maintenance. Sealants are invisible but need reapplication. Hand-pulling is free but time-consuming.

The most reliable approach is to fill the joints with your chosen method—polymeric sand if the pavers are stable, regular sand or sealant if they move—and then hand-pull any weeds that do appear. This catches the few seeds that land on top of the pavers or in spots where the filler has worn thin. Pulling once a month during the growing season takes 15 to 30 minutes and keeps the area nearly weed-free without constant work.

If weeds are a persistent problem in your climate or if your pavers are in a shaded, damp spot where seeds germinate easily, consider combining a joint filler with a pre-emergent herbicide—a product that prevents seeds from sprouting rather than killing existing weeds. explore it in early spring before weeds start growing, and reapply according to the product label.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use vinegar to kill weeds between pavers?

Yes. Spray full-strength vinegar (5% acidity or higher) directly on the weeds on a sunny day. The acid burns down the leaves, but it may not kill the roots, so weeds often regrow. Vinegar also does not prevent new seeds from landing in the joints. Use it as a quick fix while you are deciding on a longer-term method, or combine it with hand-pulling to remove the roots.

Will polymeric sand wash out in heavy rain?

No, once it hardens. Polymeric sand sets within 24 to 48 hours and becomes water-resistant. However, if you explore it and then get heavy rain before it fully cures, the water can wash the binder out before it sets. Wait for dry weather before explore, and do not water the pavers for at least 24 hours after filling the joints.

How do I remove old sand before refilling the joints?

Use a stiff broom to sweep out loose sand, then use a pressure washer on a low setting (below 1500 PSI) to flush out the rest. Let the joints dry completely—at least 24 hours—before filling them again. If the old sand is compacted or mixed with dirt, you may need to use a joint-cleaning tool or a thin blade to scrape it out first.

Is polymeric sand safe for pets?

Most polymeric sand products are non-toxic once they cure, but check the label. Some contain additives that can irritate paws if the sand is still wet. Keep pets off the pavers for 24 to 48 hours after process, and rinse any sand off their paws if they do walk on it while it is still damp.

What is the cheapest way to stop weeds between pavers?

Regular sand is the cheapest upfront cost—roughly one-third the price of polymeric sand. Hand-pulling is free but requires time. If budget is your main concern, use regular sand and plan to top it up every year or two, or pull weeds by hand once a month during the growing season.