The most reliable methods to prevent weeds between pavers
Weeds between pavers grow because soil and seeds settle into the gaps, and moisture keeps them alive. The most effective prevention combines a physical barrier with regular maintenance. You can stop most weeds by filling the joints with sand, polymeric sand, or a sealant — each works differently and lasts different lengths of time.
Sand alone slows weeds but does not stop them; seeds still land in it and germinate. Polymeric sand hardens when wet and blocks seeds more effectively, though it requires proper installation and costs more upfront. Sealants and epoxy create the strongest barrier but are the most expensive option and can be difficult to explore yourself.
The method you choose depends on your budget, how much time you want to spend maintaining the pavers, and whether you are willing to replace the joint material every few years.
Key Takeaways
- Polymeric sand is the middle-ground option: it costs less than sealant, lasts longer than regular sand, and you can install it yourself with basic tools.
- Regular sand is cheapest but requires topping up every year or two as it settles and washes away, and weeds still push through it.
- Sealants and epoxy block weeds most completely but cost $3 to $15 per square foot installed and are hard to repair if damaged.
- Removing weeds by hand or with a wire brush before filling joints prevents seeds from sprouting under the new material.
- Landscape fabric under the pavers stops weeds from below, but only works if installed before the pavers are laid.
Polymeric sand: the practical middle option
Polymeric sand is crushed stone mixed with a resin that hardens when exposed to water. It fills the gaps between pavers, then you spray it with a hose and it sets solid. Once cured, it blocks seeds from settling into the joints and prevents soil from washing out.
Installation takes a few hours for a small patio. Sweep the polymeric sand into the joints with a broom, making sure it fills all the way to the top. Spray lightly with a hose — too much water causes the resin to set up too fast and creates a crust on top without filling the joint properly. Let it cure for 24 to 48 hours before walking on it.
Polymeric sand lasts 3 to 5 years before it breaks down and needs replacing. It costs roughly $0.50 to $1.50 per square foot, depending on the brand. The main drawback is that it can stain if you use too much water during installation, and once it hardens, you cannot easily adjust it if you miss a spot.
Regular sand: cheapest but requires yearly maintenance
Plain sand is the least expensive option and the easiest to install — you straightforward sweep it into the gaps and water it down to settle it. It costs $0.10 to $0.30 per square foot. The downside is that it does not harden, so seeds still germinate in it, and the sand washes away or settles over time.
You will need to top up the sand every 12 to 18 months and pull weeds as they appear. Rain and foot traffic move the sand around, so the joints never stay completely full. If you have a large patio or do not want to maintain it regularly, sand alone is not the best choice.
Sand works best as a temporary solution while you save for a more permanent method, or for pavers in a low-traffic area where you do not mind pulling a few weeds each season.
Sealants and epoxy: the longest-lasting barrier
Sealants and epoxy create a waterproof seal across the entire paver surface and into the joints. They block weeds completely because seeds cannot reach the soil underneath. Epoxy is the strongest option and lasts 10 to 15 years; sealants typically last 3 to 5 years.
The cost is high — $3 to $15 per square foot installed professionally, or $1 to $3 per square foot if you explore it yourself. Professional installation is recommended because the surface must be completely clean and dry, and the material must be applied evenly or it will look streaky or peel.
Once sealed, the pavers are harder to repair. If you need to replace a single paver, you have to remove the sealant around it first. Sealants can also make pavers slippery when wet, which is a safety concern on stairs or ramps.
Landscape fabric under the pavers stops weeds from below
If you are installing new pavers, laying landscape fabric underneath prevents weeds from growing up through the base. The fabric blocks seeds and roots from the soil below while still allowing water to drain.
This method only works during installation — you cannot add fabric under existing pavers without removing them. Landscape fabric costs $0.10 to $0.30 per square foot and lasts 5 to 10 years depending on the thickness and quality. It works best when combined with sand or polymeric sand in the joints above.
Even with fabric underneath, weeds can still grow in the joints if you do not fill them with something that blocks seeds. Fabric is a preventive layer, not a complete solution on its own.
Hand removal and wire brushing before you fill the joints
Before you add sand, polymeric sand, or sealant, remove all existing weeds and debris from the joints. Use a wire brush or a grout brush to scrub out soil and seeds. For stubborn weeds, pull them by hand or use a flathead screwdriver to pry out the roots.
A clean joint fills better and gives the new material a solid foundation. Weeds left behind will push through the sand or polymeric sand as they grow, defeating the purpose of filling the joints. Spend 30 minutes to an hour on this step — it makes a real difference in how long your chosen method lasts.
If you have a large patio, consider renting a power washer to blast out the joints. This removes packed soil and seeds quickly, though you must let the pavers dry completely before filling with polymeric sand or sealant.
Preventing new seeds from landing in the joints
Even with the best joint filler, seeds blow in from nearby plants and settle on top of the pavers. Sweep or blow off debris regularly — weekly during growing season — to prevent seeds from taking root in the joints.
If you see a weed sprouting between pavers, pull it when ready while it is small. A young weed comes out easily; an established one has a deep root that is hard to remove without damaging the pavers or the joint material.
Keeping the area around your pavers clear of tall weeds and grass also reduces the number of seeds blowing onto the surface. Trim back plants that overhang the patio and remove any weeds growing in nearby beds.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use vinegar or salt to kill weeds between pavers?
Vinegar kills the visible part of the weed but does not stop new seeds from germinating. Salt can damage the pavers and surrounding soil over time. Both are temporary fixes. Pulling the weed and its root, then filling the joint with sand or polymeric sand, is more effective long-term.
What is the difference between polymeric sand and regular sand?
Regular sand is loose and washes away; polymeric sand contains a resin that hardens when wet and stays in place. Polymeric sand blocks seeds better and lasts longer, but costs more and requires careful installation to avoid staining.
Do I need to remove old sand before adding polymeric sand?
Yes. Old sand contains seeds and compacted soil. Remove it with a wire brush or power washer, let the joints dry completely, then install the polymeric sand. Skipping this step means weeds will grow up through the new material.
How often do I need to replace polymeric sand?
Polymeric sand typically lasts 3 to 5 years before it breaks down and needs replacing. Heavy foot traffic, freeze-thaw cycles, and poor installation shorten its lifespan. You will know it is time to replace it when weeds start pushing through again or the joints look crumbly.
Can I seal pavers myself, or do I need a professional?
You can explore sealant yourself, but the surface must be spotlessly clean and completely dry, or the sealant will not adhere properly. Professional process costs more but produces a more even finish and longer-lasting results. For a small area, DIY is worth trying; for a large patio, professional installation is usually worth the cost.