The three ways to raise your handlebars
You can raise your handlebars by adjusting the stem, moving spacers on the fork, or replacing the stem with a longer or angled one. Which method works depends on what kind of bike you have and how much higher you need them to go. Most riders can make a meaningful adjustment without buying new parts.
The stem is the metal tube that connects your handlebars to the fork. On most bikes, you can loosen the bolts that hold it, rotate it upward, and tighten them again. This is the fastest fix and costs nothing. If you need them higher than the stem can rotate, you move spacers — plastic or metal rings that sit on the fork tube under the stem — from below the stem to above it. If neither of those gets you high enough, you replace the stem with one that points upward at a steeper angle or is physically longer.
Key Takeaways
- Most handlebars can be raised by loosening the stem bolts, rotating the stem upward, and tightening them again — this takes five minutes and no tools beyond an Allen wrench.
- If rotating the stem does not raise them enough, you can move spacers from below the stem to above it to gain another inch or two of height.
- Threadless stems (the standard on modern bikes) can be adjusted this way; threaded stems (older bikes) require a different process involving a locknut and may need a professional.
- Raising handlebars too high can make steering sluggish and throw off your weight distribution, so test small adjustments before committing to a new stem.
Adjusting a threadless stem — the most common type
A threadless stem is held in place by bolts on the side of the stem clamp. You will see two or four bolts facing outward on the front of the stem where it grips the fork tube. Loosen these bolts with an Allen wrench — usually a 4mm or 5mm — but do not remove them completely. Turn them counterclockwise until the stem can rotate freely.
Rotate the stem and handlebars upward to the angle you want. The stem can rotate roughly 90 degrees in either direction before the cable routing becomes awkward. Once you have the angle you like, tighten the bolts again in a crisscross pattern — tighten one bolt a quarter turn, then the opposite bolt a quarter turn, then repeat. This keeps pressure even and prevents the stem from tilting. Tighten until snug; you should not be able to twist the stem by hand, but you do not need to strain.
Test the adjustment by standing over the bike with both feet flat on the ground. Your arms should have a slight bend when you grip the bars. If they are still too low, move to the spacer method below.
Moving spacers to gain more height
Spacers are plastic or aluminum rings stacked on the fork tube below and above the stem. Moving them from below the stem to above it raises the handlebars without rotating the stem further. You will need an Allen wrench and possibly a headset wrench, depending on your bike's design.
Loosen the top cap bolt — the single bolt on top of the stem — by turning it counterclockwise a few turns. Do not remove it completely; just loosen it enough that you can lift the stem slightly. Loosen the stem clamp bolts as you did before. Slide the stem up the fork tube and remove one spacer from below it. Slide the stem back down and place that spacer above the stem. Tighten the top cap bolt first, then the stem clamp bolts in a crisscross pattern.
You can usually move one to three spacers this way before the stem runs out of room or the fork tube becomes exposed. Each spacer is typically 5mm to 10mm tall, so moving two or three gives you roughly half an inch to an inch of extra height. If you need more than that, a new stem is the next step.
Replacing the stem with a longer or angled option
If rotating and spacers do not get your handlebars high enough, you need a new stem. Stems come in different lengths and rise angles. A stem with a higher rise angle points more steeply upward and raises the bars without adding length. A longer stem extends further forward and raises the bars slightly as a side effect.
Measure your current stem's length and rise angle before you buy a replacement. The length is measured from the center of the clamp to the center of the handlebar attachment point. The rise angle is printed on the stem itself — common angles are 0 degrees (flat), 17 degrees, 25 degrees, and 35 degrees. A 35-degree stem raises the bars significantly more than a 17-degree one.
To swap stems, loosen the stem clamp bolts and the top cap bolt, slide the old stem off the fork tube, and slide the new one on. Make sure the new stem is the same diameter as your fork tube — most modern bikes use 1 1/8 inch, but older bikes may use 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch. Tighten the top cap bolt first, then the clamp bolts. If your handlebars do not fit the new stem's clamp diameter, you will need new bars as well.
Threaded stems — older bikes and special cases
Older bikes and some fixed-gear bikes use threaded stems, which screw onto the fork tube rather than clamping around it. These require a different approach. You will see a locknut and a threaded collar where the stem meets the fork, rather than a clamp with bolts.
Loosen the locknut with a wrench while holding the stem steady with another wrench. Unscrew the stem by turning it counterclockwise. Screw it back in at a higher angle — the threads allow the stem to sit at different heights. Tighten the locknut to lock it in place. This method is less forgiving than a threadless stem because you cannot fine-tune the angle as easily, and if you over-tighten the locknut, you can damage the threads. If you are not comfortable with this process, a bike shop can do it in ten minutes.
What happens if you raise them too high
Raising handlebars too high shifts your weight backward and can make the front wheel feel light and unresponsive. Steering becomes sluggish, and climbing hills becomes harder because your weight moves away from the pedals. On some bikes, very high bars can also cause the brake or shifter cables to kink or stretch, which affects how they work.
The right height is a balance between comfort and control. Your elbows should have a slight bend when you grip the bars, and your wrists should be straight, not bent backward. If you find yourself reaching down to the bars or leaning far back, they are probably too high. Test any adjustment by riding on flat ground and a gentle hill before you commit to a new stem.
Tools you will need
For rotating the stem or moving spacers, you need only an Allen wrench — usually 4mm or 5mm, though some older bikes use 6mm. For replacing a stem, you need the same Allen wrench plus possibly a headset wrench if your bike has a threaded headset, though most modern bikes do not.
A bike shop can do any of these jobs for $20 to $50 if you do not want to do it yourself. The labor is straightforward, and a shop can also check that your cables are routed correctly and that nothing else needs adjustment after the bars go higher.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I raise my handlebars if I have drop bars?
Yes, the same stem adjustment works on drop bars. Rotating the stem upward raises the entire bar assembly. Drop bars are less forgiving about height because the drops themselves sit lower, so you may need to replace the stem with a higher-rise model to get the tops of the bars to a comfortable height.
Will raising my handlebars affect my brakes or shifters?
Only if you raise them so high that the cables kink or stretch. Most adjustments do not cause this problem. If you move spacers or replace the stem, check that the cables have slack and are not pulling at sharp angles. If they are, you may need to have them re-routed by a bike shop.
How do I know if my stem is threadless or threaded?
Look at where the stem meets the fork tube. A threadless stem has bolts on the side of a clamp. A threaded stem has a locknut and collar that screw onto the fork. Threadless is standard on all bikes made in the last 25 years.
What if I loosen the stem bolts and nothing happens?
Make sure you are loosening the clamp bolts on the side of the stem, not the top cap bolt. The clamp bolts hold the stem to the fork and are the ones you need to loosen to rotate it. If they are already loose and the stem still will not move, it may be stuck from corrosion or dirt — spray it with penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes before trying again.
Can I raise my handlebars on a fixed-gear or single-speed bike?
Yes, the same methods work. Fixed-gear bikes often use threaded stems, so you may need to unscrew the stem rather than rotate it. Single-speed bikes usually have threadless stems and adjust the same way as any other modern bike.