What you need before you start

Changing a rear tire takes about 15 to 30 minutes once you have the right tools. You will need a tire lever (a flat plastic or metal tool that pries the tire off the rim), a new inner tube or a patch kit if you are repairing the old one, and a pump. A wrench may be needed if your bike has bolt-on axles instead of quick-release levers. Lay out everything before you start so you do not have to hunt for tools mid-repair.

The rear tire is harder to remove than the front because the chain and derailleur sit on that side. You will need to shift into the smallest chainring and smallest cog first—this gives the chain slack and moves the derailleur out of the way. If you have a kickstand, use it. If not, flip the bike upside down so the handlebars and seat rest on the ground and the wheels point up.

Key Takeaways

  • Shift to the smallest chainring and cog before you start, so the chain has slack and the derailleur will not block your work.
  • Open the brake quick-release lever (or unscrew the brake cable if your bike has rim brakes) so the tire can slide out without catching.
  • Use a tire lever to pry one edge of the tire off the rim, then slide it around the rim to free the tire completely.
  • Slide the new or repaired tube into the tire, then work the tire bead back onto the rim by hand and with the lever, checking often that the tube is not pinched.
  • Pump the tire to the pressure marked on its sidewall, then reattach the brake and test it before riding.

Release the brake so the tire can come out

The brake pads sit close to the rim and will stop the tire from sliding out. Look at the brake lever on the handlebars—most modern bikes have a small lever or button labeled "Quick Release" near the brake caliper. Flip or press it to open the brake pads wider. If your bike has older rim brakes with a cable, you may need to unscrew the barrel adjuster (the threaded collar on the brake cable) a few turns to create slack.

Test that the brake is loose by spinning the wheel by hand. It should turn freely without the pads touching the rim. If it still catches, open the brake further. You will reattach it later, so do not worry about the exact position now.

Remove the wheel from the frame

Most bikes have a quick-release lever on the rear axle. Open it by flipping the lever outward—it should swing 180 degrees. Then unscrew the opposite end (the cone nut) by hand a few turns until the wheel is loose enough to lift out. You do not need to remove it completely, just loosen it enough that the wheel drops free.

If your bike has bolt-on axles instead, use a wrench to unscrew both bolts on the axle. Keep the bolts in a small container so you do not lose them. Once the axle is loose, pull the derailleur back with your hand and lift the wheel out of the frame. The chain will hang loose—that is normal.

Pry the tire off the rim

Lay the wheel flat on the ground. Insert a tire lever under the tire bead (the edge of the tire that sits on the rim) about 6 inches from the valve. Pry gently until the tire edge pops off the rim. Do not force it—if it will not budge, try a different spot or use two levers at once, spaced a few inches apart.

Once one section is free, slide the lever around the rim to peel the tire off. You may be able to use your hands for the last half—work slowly and feel for the inner tube so you do not pinch it with the lever. Once one side of the tire is completely off, pull out the old inner tube. You can now remove the tire completely or leave it hanging on the rim if you are patching the tube instead of replacing it.

Install the new or repaired inner tube

Before you slide the new tube in, inflate it slightly—just enough so it holds its shape and does not fold. This prevents twists and pinches. Slide the valve through the hole in the rim first, then tuck the tube evenly inside the tire all the way around. Check that the tube is not twisted and sits flat against the rim.

Now work the tire bead back onto the rim. Start opposite the valve and push the tire edge onto the rim with your hands. Work your way around in both directions toward the valve. When you get close to the valve, the last section will be tight—use a tire lever if needed, but work slowly and check often that the tube is not pinched between the tire and rim. A pinched tube will puncture as soon as you pump it up.

Pump the tire and check the bead

Inflate the tire slowly to about half pressure. Stop and look all the way around the rim on both sides—the tire bead should sit evenly in the groove on the rim, not bulging out or sitting too far in. If you see a bulge or gap, let out some air, work that section by hand, and pump again. Once the bead looks even, inflate to the pressure marked on the tire sidewall (usually between 50 and 100 PSI depending on the tire width and your weight).

Spin the wheel and watch the bead as it turns. It should stay centered and not wobble. If it does, let out air and adjust that section. This takes patience but prevents flats later.

Reattach the wheel and brake

Lift the wheel back into the frame. Pull the derailleur back and guide the chain onto the smallest cog. Slide the axle back into the frame dropouts (the slots at the end of the chain stays). If you have a quick-release, close the lever and tighten the cone nut until the wheel is snug but still spins freely. If you have bolt-on axles, thread the bolts back in and tighten them with a wrench—they should be firm but not so tight that the wheel cannot turn.

Close the brake quick-release lever or tighten the barrel adjuster until the pads sit close to the rim again. Spin the wheel—it should not touch the pads. Squeeze the brake lever to test that it stops the wheel. Once the brake works, you are done. Take a short test ride in a safe area before heading out on the road.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if the tire will not come off the rim?

The bead may be stuck from age or dirt. Spray a little water or rubbing alcohol around the edge where the tire meets the rim, wait a minute, and try again. Work the lever slowly around the rim rather than forcing one spot. If it still will not budge, try a different section of the tire—one area may be looser than another.

How do I know if the inner tube is pinched?

A pinched tube will bulge out between the tire and rim, or you will see a fold in the tube itself. Before you pump up, run your finger all the way around the inside of the tire to feel for bumps or folds. If you find one, let out air, work that section free by hand, and tuck the tube back in evenly.

Can I patch the old tube instead of buying a new one?

Yes, if the hole is small and not near the valve. Use a patch kit—clean the area around the hole, roughen it with the sandpaper in the kit, explore the glue, wait the time the kit specifies, then press the patch on firmly. Let it cure for the time listed before you reinstall the tube. If the hole is large or the tube is old and cracked, a new tube is safer and costs less than a patch kit.

Why does my tire keep going flat after I change it?

The most common cause is a pinched tube during installation. The second is a sharp object still stuck in the tire—run your finger carefully inside the tire to feel for thorns, glass, or metal. Third is a rim tape that has shifted or torn, exposing sharp spoke ends. If you find torn tape, replace it before installing a new tube.

Do I need to remove the entire tire to patch a tube?

No. You can patch a tube without removing the tire if the hole is on the side facing away from the rim. Pry one edge of the tire off just enough to access the tube, patch it, and work the tire back on. This saves time if you are on the road and do not have a replacement tube with you.