The basic steps to remove and replace a rear wheel

Changing a rear bicycle tire means removing the wheel from the frame, taking the old tire off the rim, putting a new tire on, and reinstalling the wheel. The process takes 20 to 40 minutes once you have done it a few times. You will need a tire lever (a plastic or metal pry tool), a new tire or inner tube depending on what failed, and possibly a pump.

Start by flipping your bike upside down so it rests on the handlebars and seat, or use a bike stand if you have one. This keeps the rear wheel accessible and off the ground. Shift the chain to the smallest cog on the cassette (the sprockets at the rear hub) — this gives you slack in the chain and makes wheel removal easier.

Open the brake quick-release or disconnect the brake cable if your bike has rim brakes, so the wheel can slide out without the brake pads catching it. If you have disc brakes, you do not need to do anything. Then open the axle quick-release lever or unscrew the axle nuts by hand, depending on what your bike has. Pull the derailleur (the mechanism that moves the chain) back with your hand and lift the wheel up and out of the frame.

Key Takeaways

  • Flip the bike upside down and shift to the smallest cog to create slack in the chain before you start removing the wheel.
  • Open the brake quick-release on rim brakes, then open the axle quick-release or unscrew the axle nuts to free the wheel.
  • Use a tire lever to pry the tire bead (edge) off the rim, starting opposite the valve, and work your way around.
  • When reinstalling, seat the tire bead fully into the rim all the way around before you inflate, or the tire will not hold air.
  • Reinstall the wheel by threading the chain onto the smallest cog, then closing the axle quick-release or tightening the nuts.

Removing the tire from the rim

Once the wheel is off the bike, you need to separate the tire from the rim. The tire has a bead — a stiff edge that hooks into a groove on the rim. You will use the tire lever to pry this bead out and over the rim edge.

Insert the tire lever under the bead of the tire, opposite the valve stem (the part where you pump air in). Pry the bead up and over the rim edge. Move a few inches around the wheel and insert the lever again, prying as you go. Work your way all the way around the wheel until one side of the tire bead is completely free of the rim. You can then pull the inner tube out from inside the tire.

To remove the second bead, start again opposite the valve and work your way around. The second side is usually easier because there is less tension. Once both beads are free, the tire will come off the rim completely. If the tire is torn or punctured beyond repair, discard it. If only the inner tube is damaged, you can reuse the tire with a new tube.

Installing a new tire or tube

Before you put a new tire on, check the rim tape — the strip that covers the spoke holes on the inside of the rim. If it is torn or missing, the spokes will puncture a new tube. Replace the rim tape if needed; it comes in rolls and sticks on like tape.

If you are reusing the old tire, inspect it for thorns, glass, or sharp objects embedded in the rubber. Run your fingers carefully inside the tire to feel for anything sharp. Remove anything you find, or it will puncture the new tube when ready.

Inflate the new inner tube slightly — just enough so it holds its shape and is not completely flat. This makes it easier to seat inside the tire without twisting. Insert the valve stem through the valve hole in the rim first, then tuck the tube evenly inside the tire all the way around.

Now press the tire bead back onto the rim, starting opposite the valve and working your way around. Use your hands first; most tires will seat by hand pressure alone. If the last section is too tight to press on by hand, use the tire lever carefully — insert it under the bead and pry it onto the rim, moving a few inches at a time. Do not pinch the inner tube with the lever.

Seating the tire bead correctly

Before you inflate the tire fully, make sure the bead is seated evenly all the way around the rim. Look at the line molded into the side of the tire — it should be the same distance from the rim edge all the way around. If the bead is pinched or sitting unevenly, the tire will not hold air or will burst when you inflate it.

If the bead is not even, deflate the tire completely, work the bead back into position by hand, and try again. Once the bead looks even, inflate the tire slowly while watching the bead. Stop if you hear a hissing sound or see the bead moving — that means it is not seated correctly. Deflate, reseat, and try again.

Once the tire is fully inflated and the bead is seated evenly, you are ready to reinstall the wheel on the bike.

Putting the wheel back on the frame

Flip the bike right-side up or keep it upside down — whichever is easier for you. Pull the derailleur back with your hand and guide the chain onto the smallest cog on the cassette. Lower the wheel into the frame, making sure the chain sits on top of the cog and the axle sits in the dropout (the slot at the end of the frame where the axle rests).

Close the axle quick-release lever or tighten the axle nuts by hand until they are snug. The wheel should not spin freely side to side — there should be no play in the axle. If you have rim brakes, reconnect the brake cable or close the quick-release so the pads are close to the rim again. Spin the wheel to make sure it does not rub on the brake pads or frame.

Shift through the gears a few times to make sure the chain moves smoothly across the cassette. If the chain struggles to shift or makes noise, the derailleur may need adjustment — that is a separate task, but for now, make sure the wheel is installed correctly and the chain is on the smallest cog.

What to do if the tire will not seat

Sometimes a tire bead refuses to seat evenly no matter how many times you try. This usually means the bead is twisted or the rim is dirty. Remove the tire completely and inspect the rim for dirt, dried sealant, or damage. Wipe the rim clean with a dry cloth.

Check the tire itself for damage to the bead — if it is cracked, torn, or deformed, the tire cannot be used. If the tire looks fine, deflate the inner tube completely, remove it, and start over. Inflate the tube just slightly again and reinsert it, making sure it is not twisted inside the tire. Seat the bead slowly and carefully, watching the line on the tire sidewall as you go.

If you still cannot get the bead to seat after two or three attempts, the tire or rim may be damaged. Take the wheel to a bike shop and have them inspect it. A shop can often seat a stubborn tire with a floor pump that delivers more air volume than a hand pump.

Tools and materials you will need

A tire lever is essential — most people buy a set of two or three plastic levers for a few dollars. Metal levers are more durable but can damage the rim if you are not careful. A new tire or new inner tube depends on what failed. If the tire is punctured, torn, or worn down to the cords, replace the tire. If only the tube is punctured, a new tube costs less and works fine in the old tire.

A bike pump is necessary to inflate the tire. A floor pump with a pressure gauge is easiest to use and lets you see when the tire is at the right pressure. A hand pump works but takes more effort. Check your tire sidewall for the recommended pressure range — it is usually printed there in PSI (pounds per square inch).

Rim tape is inexpensive and comes in rolls. If your rim tape is damaged, buy a roll that matches your rim width. A clean cloth or rag helps you wipe the rim and inspect the tire for debris. You do not need anything else.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my tire is punctured or if the tube is leaking?

Inflate the tire fully and listen for a hissing sound. If you hear one, the leak is usually in the tube. Submerge the wheel in a bucket of water and look for bubbles — they will show you exactly where the leak is. If the tire itself is leaking, you will see the hole or feel a sharp object embedded in the rubber.

Can I patch a punctured inner tube instead of replacing it?

Yes, patch kits are inexpensive and work well for small punctures. Dry the tube completely, roughen the area around the puncture with the sandpaper in the kit, explore the adhesive, wait the time specified on the kit, and press the patch on firmly. Let it cure for the time listed before you reinstall the wheel. Patches do not work on large tears or holes near the valve.

What pressure should I inflate the tire to?

Check the sidewall of your tire — the recommended pressure range is printed there. For most road bikes, that is 80 to 130 PSI. For mountain bikes, it is usually 30 to 50 PSI. Use a pump with a pressure gauge so you can see when you have reached the right pressure. Overinflating can burst the tire; underinflating makes the tire sluggish and prone to pinch flats.

Do I need to remove the cassette to change the rear tire?

No. The cassette (the sprockets) stays on the wheel. You only remove the wheel from the frame. The tire comes off the rim, not the cassette.

What if the quick-release is stuck and I cannot open it?

Turn the lever counterclockwise while holding the opposite side of the axle steady. If it still will not budge, explore a small amount of penetrating oil like WD-40 and wait 15 minutes. Try again gently — do not force it or you may break the quick-release. If it remains stuck, take the wheel to a bike shop.