What You Need Before You Start
Changing brake pads takes 15 to 30 minutes and requires only a few tools you likely already have. You will need a wrench or Allen key that fits the bolt holding your brake pad cartridge (usually 5mm), a small flathead screwdriver, and replacement brake pads that match your brake type. The most common types are rim brakes (which grip the wheel rim) and disc brakes (which grip a rotor attached to the hub). Check your bike's manual or look at your current pads to find the exact model number before you buy new ones—pads are not universal.
You do not need a bike stand, though one makes the work easier. If you do not have one, flip your bike upside down so it rests on the handlebars and seat. This keeps both wheels off the ground and gives you room to work. Wear old clothes because brake dust stains, and wash your hands after you finish.
Key Takeaways
- Rim brake pads bolt directly to the brake arm and slide out sideways; disc brake pads sit in a cartridge that pulls straight out from the caliper.
- Always replace both pads on the same brake at the same time, even if only one looks worn, so braking stays even.
- New pads need a break-in period of 5 to 10 gentle stops before you brake hard, or they will squeal and not grip properly.
- If your brakes feel spongy or pull to one side after you install new pads, the brake may need adjustment—tighten the cable or center the caliper depending on your brake type.
How to Remove Rim Brake Pads
Rim brakes have two brake pads mounted on arms that squeeze the wheel rim from both sides. To remove the old pads, locate the bolt that holds each pad cartridge to the brake arm. This bolt is usually on the outside of the brake arm, facing away from the wheel. Use your wrench or Allen key to loosen this bolt—turn it counterclockwise—but do not remove it completely. You need only loosen it enough that the pad slides out sideways.
Once the bolt is loose, slide the old pad straight out toward the outside of the brake arm. The pad will come free from a small slot or groove. If the pad is stuck, wiggle it gently side to side while you pull. Do the same for the second pad on the other brake arm. Set the old pads aside and wipe any dust or debris from the brake arm with a dry cloth.
How to Remove Disc Brake Pads
Disc brakes have pads held inside a cartridge that sits in the brake caliper, which is the metal housing bolted to the frame or fork. To remove the cartridge, locate the small bolt or pin on the side of the caliper—usually a 2mm or 2.5mm Allen key bolt. Loosen and remove this bolt completely. The cartridge will now slide straight out toward you. Pull it out slowly and set it down; there may be a small spring inside that can fall out if you tip it.
Once the cartridge is out, the old pads will be visible inside. They are usually held in place by friction or a small clip. Push or pry them out gently with a flathead screwdriver. If they are stuck, tap the screwdriver handle lightly with a wrench to nudge them free. Wipe the inside of the cartridge and the caliper with a dry cloth to remove dust and old pad material.
Installing New Brake Pads
Before you insert new pads, check that the brake rotor or rim is clean. Wipe it with a dry cloth to remove any oil, dirt, or old pad dust. This step matters because contamination will make new pads squeal and lose grip.
For rim brakes, slide the new pad into the slot on the brake arm, pushing it in from the side until it sits flush against the arm. The pad should not stick out or sit crooked. Tighten the bolt by turning it clockwise with your wrench or Allen key. Tighten firmly but do not overtighten—you should feel resistance, not a hard stop. Repeat for the second pad on the other brake arm.
For disc brakes, insert the new pads into the cartridge one at a time. They should slide in smoothly and sit flat. If a pad is tight, check that you are inserting it straight and not at an angle. Once both pads are in, slide the cartridge back into the caliper and insert the bolt. Tighten the bolt firmly so the cartridge does not rattle, but again do not overtighten.
Adjusting Your Brakes After Installation
After you install new pads, spin the wheel by hand and listen for rubbing. The wheel should spin freely without the pads touching the rim or rotor. If you hear rubbing, the brake needs adjustment.
For rim brakes, the pads may be too close to the rim. Loosen the main bolt that holds the entire brake arm to the frame (usually a 5mm Allen key), then gently squeeze the brake lever to center the pads against the rim. While holding the lever, tighten the main bolt. Release the lever and spin the wheel again. If one pad still rubs, you can adjust the pad position by loosening the pad bolt slightly and moving the pad closer to or farther from the rim, then retightening.
For disc brakes, the caliper may be misaligned. Loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper to the frame or fork by one or two turns—do not remove them. Squeeze the brake lever to center the caliper over the rotor, then tighten both bolts while holding the lever. Release the lever and spin the wheel. The rotor should pass through the caliper with even space on both sides.
Breaking In New Brake Pads
New pads need a break-in period before they reach full stopping power. For the first 5 to 10 miles, brake gently and gradually. Make slow stops from low speed, then gradually increase to moderate stops. Avoid hard braking or emergency stops during this time. You may notice the brakes feel softer than you expect—this is normal and will improve as the pads bed in to the rotor or rim.
During break-in, the pads may squeal. This is common and usually stops after a few rides. If squealing continues after 20 miles, the pads may be contaminated with oil or the rotor may be dirty. Wipe the rotor or rim with a clean, dry cloth and try again. If squealing persists, the pads may not be the right type for your brake—check the model number against your brake manual.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The most common mistake is replacing only one pad instead of both. Even if only one pad looks worn, always replace both pads on the same brake at the same time. If you replace only one, the brakes will pull to the side with the newer pad, and you will lose stopping power.
Another mistake is touching the rotor or rim with your bare hands after you remove the old pads. Oil from your skin will contaminate the new pads and cause squealing and poor grip. If you do touch the rotor or rim, wipe it with a clean, dry cloth before you install new pads.
Do not overtighten the bolts. Rim brake pad bolts and disc brake cartridge bolts should be snug, not cranked down with all your strength. Overtightening can strip the threads or crack the brake arm. If a bolt feels hard to turn, you have probably tightened it enough.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know when my brake pads need to be changed?
Most pads have a wear indicator—a small groove or line molded into the pad surface. When the pad wears down to that line, it is time to replace it. If your pads do not have a wear indicator, replace them when they are thinner than 1mm. You can also listen: if your brakes squeal constantly even after break-in, the pads may be worn down to the metal backing.
Can I use any brake pads on my bike?
No. Rim brake pads and disc brake pads are not interchangeable, and within each type there are different models. Check your brake manual or the side of your current pads for the model number. Buying the wrong pads will not fit, or will fit but perform poorly. Most bike shops can tell you the right pads in one minute if you bring your bike or a photo of your brake.
Why do my new brakes feel soft or spongy?
New pads are softer than worn pads and need break-in time. Spongy brakes can also mean the brake cable is loose (rim brakes) or the caliper is misaligned (disc brakes). Check that the brake lever does not move more than halfway to the handlebar before the brake engages. If it does, the cable may need tightening—consult your brake manual for the adjustment procedure.
Do I need to bleed my brakes after changing the pads?
No. Bleeding is only needed for hydraulic disc brakes when air enters the brake line, which does not happen during a pad change. Mechanical disc brakes and rim brakes do not need bleeding. If your brakes feel spongy after a pad change, the issue is usually cable tension or caliper alignment, not air in the system.
How long do new brake pads last?
This depends on how much you ride and how hard you brake. Light riders in dry conditions may get 1,000 to 2,000 miles. Heavy riders or those who brake frequently may need new pads every 500 miles. Mountain bikers and commuters in wet weather often replace pads every 3 to 6 months. Check your pads every month or two and replace them when they reach the wear indicator.