What Lacing a Wheel Means and Why It Matters
Lacing is the process of threading spokes through the hub and rim to build the structure of a wheel. When you lace a wheel, you are creating the web of tension that holds the rim in place and keeps it round and true. A properly laced wheel distributes your weight evenly, resists damage from potholes and curbs, and stays straight longer than a poorly laced one.
Most bicycle wheels use one of three lacing patterns: radial (spokes go straight from hub to rim), two-cross (each spoke crosses two others), or three-cross (each spoke crosses three others). Two-cross and three-cross are the most common because they handle braking and pedaling forces better than radial lacing. This guide covers the two-cross pattern, which works for most road and mountain bikes.
You will need the hub, rim, and spokes already in hand — this guide assumes you are starting with these three components loose and ready to assemble. If you are replacing a broken spoke in an already-laced wheel, the process is different and simpler.
Key Takeaways
- Two-cross lacing means each spoke crosses exactly two other spokes on its way from hub to rim, creating a strong, flexible wheel.
- Start by inserting all spokes into the hub holes, then thread them through the rim in a specific order to create the crossing pattern.
- Spoke tension must be even across all spokes — use a spoke wrench to tighten each nipple gradually in multiple passes rather than tightening one spoke all the way.
- A truing stand or even a straightforward frame check helps you catch wobbles and twists before they become permanent.
- The entire process takes 45 minutes to two hours the first time; experienced builders work faster.
Gather Your Tools and Materials
You will need a spoke wrench (a small tool with notches that fit spoke nipples), the hub, rim, and spokes, and ideally a truing stand — a straightforward frame that holds the wheel so you can see if it wobbles side to side or up and down. A truing stand costs $30 to $150 new, but you can also clamp the wheel in a bike frame or even hold it by hand against a fixed point like a pencil taped to a table.
Count your spokes before you start. Most wheels have 32 or 36 spokes, and the number must match the number of holes in both the hub and rim. If the counts do not match, you have the wrong parts.
Lay out your workspace on a clean, flat surface. You will be setting the wheel down and rotating it many times, so a table or workbench is better than the floor. Have a small container or cloth nearby to keep spokes from rolling away.
Insert All Spokes Into the Hub
Start with the hub in front of you. Most hubs have two sets of holes — one set on each side (called the drive side and non-drive side). The drive side is where the cassette or sprockets attach; on a front wheel, either side can be called the drive side by convention.
Take half your spokes (for example, 16 if you have 32 total) and insert them into the holes on one side of the hub, pushing them through until the spoke head (the wider part at the end) catches on the inside of the hub flange. Do the same with the other half of your spokes on the other side. All spokes should now be sticking out from the hub like wheel spokes on a toy.
Check that each spoke head is seated fully — it should not rock or move. If a spoke head is loose, the wheel will never be true. Some hubs have a small lip or groove that the spoke head sits into; make sure you are using that.
Thread Spokes Into the Rim in the Correct Order
Lay the rim flat on your work surface. Pick one spoke from the drive side and thread it into a hole in the rim. This is your reference spoke — call this hole "1" and mark it with tape or a marker if the rim does not have numbers.
Now count around the rim. For a 32-spoke wheel with two-cross lacing, you will skip 3 holes and thread the next spoke into hole 4. Then skip 3 more and thread into hole 8. Keep going around the drive side until all drive-side spokes are in the rim, spaced evenly.
For a 36-spoke wheel, skip 4 holes instead of 3. The pattern is: total spokes ÷ 2 = holes to skip + 1. So 32 ÷ 2 = 16, and 16 ÷ 8 (half the rim) = 2 holes to skip, plus 1 = 3. For 36 spokes: 36 ÷ 2 = 18, and 18 ÷ 9 = 2, plus 1 = 3 holes to skip. (This math works for most wheel sizes.)
Once all drive-side spokes are in, thread the non-drive-side spokes into the remaining holes. They should fit into the gaps between the drive-side spokes. If they do not, you have made an error in spacing — go back and recount.
Create the Two-Cross Pattern by Weaving Spokes
Now the spokes are in the rim but not yet woven. They are all pointing straight out like a star. To create the two-cross pattern, you will bend each spoke so it crosses two others on its way from hub to rim.
Pick a drive-side spoke. It should cross over the first non-drive-side spoke it encounters (going around the wheel), then under the next non-drive-side spoke, then over the third. This is the "over-under-over" pattern. Do this for every drive-side spoke, always going in the same direction around the wheel.
Then do the same for all non-drive-side spokes, weaving them under and over the drive-side spokes in the opposite direction. When you are done, each spoke will cross exactly two others, and the pattern will look like a tight mesh.
This step takes patience. Work slowly and do not force spokes — if a spoke does not want to cross the way you expect, you may have made an error earlier. Stop and recheck the rim holes and hub insertion before you continue.
Tighten Spokes Evenly in Multiple Passes
Once all spokes are woven, they are loose and the wheel will be floppy. Use your spoke wrench to tighten the nipples (the small nuts at the rim end of each spoke). Do not tighten one spoke all the way; instead, make multiple passes around the entire wheel, tightening each spoke a quarter turn, then a half turn, then three-quarters of a turn, and so on.
As you tighten, the wheel will begin to take shape and the rim will pull toward the hub. Stop after each pass and check that the rim is not pulling to one side — if it is, you may have uneven spoke tension. A spoke tension meter (a tool that measures the pull on each spoke) is helpful but not required for a first build; listening for the pitch of each spoke when you pluck it can tell you if tension is close.
Tighten until the spokes feel firm to the touch and the rim no longer flexes when you squeeze it by hand. This usually takes 10 to 15 minutes of gradual tightening. Over-tightening can break spokes or bend the rim, so stop when the wheel feels solid but not rock-hard.
Check the Wheel for True and Adjust as Needed
Place the wheel in your truing stand or clamp it so you can spin it freely. Spin it slowly and watch the rim. It should pass through the stand without touching either side. If it wobbles left and right (called lateral run-out), you have uneven spoke tension on one side.
If the rim wobbles to the right, the spokes on the right side are too tight. Loosen them slightly (a quarter turn on each spoke on that side) and tighten the spokes on the left side by the same amount. Spin again and repeat until the wobble is gone.
Also watch for up-and-down wobbles (called radial run-out). These are usually caused by spokes that are too loose overall. Tighten all spokes evenly by a quarter turn and check again. Most wheels will have some minor wobble after a first build — anything under 2 millimeters is acceptable for a casual rider.
Once the wheel is reasonably true, you are done. The spokes will settle slightly over the first few rides, so check the wheel again after 50 miles and make small adjustments if needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if I thread a spoke into the wrong hole?
Stop and remove it. Trying to force a spoke into the wrong hole will bend it or damage the rim. It is faster to pull it out and start that spoke over than to continue and discover the error later when the wheel is half-built.
Can I use three-cross lacing instead of two-cross?
Yes. Three-cross uses the same basic steps but each spoke crosses three others instead of two. The pattern is stronger for heavy riders or rough terrain but takes longer to build. Count the holes differently: for 32 spokes, skip 5 holes instead of 3. The math is the same: (total spokes ÷ 2) ÷ (rim holes ÷ 2) + 1.
How tight should the spokes be?
Tight enough that the rim does not flex when you squeeze it and the wheel does not wobble in the stand. A typical spoke tension is 100 to 150 kilogram-force for a road wheel and 80 to 120 for a mountain wheel, but you do not need a meter to get close — even tension by ear and feel is good enough for most riders.
What if the wheel still wobbles after I true it?
Check that all spokes are seated fully in the hub and rim — a spoke that is not fully seated will cause persistent wobbles. Also check that the rim is not bent. If the rim has a dent or crease, no amount of spoke tension will make it true.
Do I need a truing stand to build a wheel?
No. You can clamp the wheel in a bike frame, hold it against a pencil taped to a table, or even spin it by hand and watch for wobbles. A truing stand makes the job easier and faster, but it is not required.