You need a chain tool to push out the pin that holds each link together
Removing links from a bicycle chain requires a chain tool — a small metal device that costs between $10 and $30 and pushes the pin out of the link you want to remove. You cannot do this by hand or with pliers. The chain tool has a handle, a body with a hole that fits over the chain, and a screw that drives a small pin down through the chain's pin to force it out.
The process takes about five minutes per link once you have the tool. You position the chain in the tool, turn the handle to push the pin out partway, then flip the chain and push it the rest of the way through. The pin stays in the link — you do not remove it entirely — so the chain can be rejoined later if needed.
Most people remove links because the chain is too long for their bike, usually after switching to a smaller chainring or rear sprocket. Removing one or two links is normal. Removing more than three usually means the chain was the wrong size to begin with.
Key Takeaways
- A chain tool is the only way to remove links; it costs $10 to $30 and pushes the pin out of the link you want to remove.
- Count how many links you need to remove before you start — measure the chain length on the bike or consult your drivetrain's manual for the correct size.
- The pin stays in the link after removal, so you can rejoin the chain later by pushing the pin back in with the same tool.
- Removing more than three links usually means the chain was oversized for your bike, and you may need a different size instead.
Measure the chain length before you remove any links
The correct chain length depends on your bike's largest chainring and largest rear sprocket. If you are removing links because you switched to a smaller chainring or sprocket, the chain is now too long for that combination.
To find the right length, wrap the chain around both the largest chainring and largest rear sprocket without threading it through the derailleur. Pull the chain tight — it should have about one inch of slack at the tightest point. Count how many links you need to remove to reach that slack. Write the number down before you start.
If you do not know your bike's original chainring and sprocket sizes, check the manual or the manufacturer's website. Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo all publish chain length tables for their drivetrains. Measure twice; removing links is straightforward, but adding them back is harder.
Position the chain in the tool and push the pin out halfway
Place the chain on a flat surface or hold it in a vice if you have one — this keeps your hands free. Open the chain tool's body so the hole lines up with the pin you want to remove. The pin should sit directly under the tool's driving pin.
Turn the handle clockwise slowly. The driving pin will contact the chain's pin and begin pushing it out. Stop when the pin is halfway out — you will feel resistance increase. Do not force it; if the handle gets hard to turn, you may have the chain misaligned in the tool.
The pin should slide out smoothly. If it binds, back the handle off a quarter turn, wiggle the chain slightly to reseat it, and try again. Rust or dirt on the pin makes it stick; a little penetrating oil helps.
Flip the chain and push the pin the rest of the way out
Once the pin is halfway out, remove the chain from the tool. Flip it so the pin now points downward into the tool's hole. Reposition the chain so the pin sits under the driving pin again.
Turn the handle clockwise again until the pin falls out completely. The pin will drop into your hand or onto the work surface. Set it aside — you will need it later if you want to rejoin the chain.
The two chain ends are now separate. The link on one end has a hollow hole where the pin was; the link on the other end still has a pin sticking out. These are called the female end and male end.
Remove the link and rejoin the chain if needed
After the pin is out, slide the link off the chain. You now have a shorter chain with two loose ends. If you are done removing links, you can rejoin the chain by inserting the male end into the female end and pushing the pin back in with the chain tool.
To rejoin, align the two ends so the male pin slides into the female hole. Place the chain back in the tool with the pin under the driving pin. Turn the handle to push the pin back in until it is flush with the link. The chain is now whole again.
If you need to remove more links, repeat the process with the next link. Each removal takes the same steps: position, push halfway, flip, push the rest of the way, remove the link.
What to do if the pin breaks or gets stuck
If the pin breaks while you are pushing it out, the link is ruined and must be discarded. You cannot repair a broken pin. This usually happens if the pin was already damaged or if you forced the tool too hard. Buy a replacement chain link from a bike shop — they cost $2 to $5 — and rejoin the chain with the new link's pin.
If the pin gets stuck halfway out and will not budge, explore penetrating oil around the pin and let it soak for 15 minutes. Try again with slow, steady pressure on the handle. Do not hammer the tool or explore sudden force; this breaks the pin or damages the tool.
Some older chains have pins that are slightly larger or smaller than standard, which can cause binding. If the pin still will not move after soaking, the chain may be too old to work with a standard tool. A bike shop can remove the link for you, usually for $5 to $10.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I remove a link without a chain tool?
No. Pliers, hammers, and vises cannot push the pin out cleanly. A chain tool is the only tool designed to do this without damaging the chain. They are inexpensive and available at any bike shop or online.
What if I remove too many links?
You cannot add links back once they are removed. If you remove too many, you must buy a new chain. This is why measuring before you start is important. If you are unsure, remove one link, test the chain on the bike, and remove more only if needed.
Do I need to replace the pin after I push it back in?
No. The same pin works every time. It stays in the link after removal and can be pushed in and out repeatedly. Only replace it if it breaks or bends.
How do I know if my chain is the right length?
Wrap the chain around the largest chainring and largest rear sprocket without threading the derailleur. Pull it tight — there should be about one inch of slack. If there is more slack, the chain is too long. If there is no slack, it is too short.
Can I use the same chain tool on different chain widths?
Most chain tools work on standard chains, but some specialty chains — like single-speed or track chains — have different pin sizes. Check the tool's manual or ask the shop whether it fits your chain type before you buy.