What you need before you start
Replacing a bicycle tire takes about 15 minutes once you have the right tools. You will need two tire levers (plastic or metal tools that pry the tire off the rim), a new inner tube that matches your wheel size, and a pump. If your tire is punctured rather than worn, you can patch the old tube instead of replacing it, but a new tube costs $8 to $20 and is faster and more reliable.
Check your wheel size before you buy a replacement tube. The size is printed on the sidewall of your current tire — it looks like "700c" or "26 inches" or "27.5 inches". Buy a tube marked for that size. The valve type (Presta or Schrader) must also match your rim, though most tubes come with both valve types or you can swap the valve stem.
If the tire itself is torn, worn flat, or has a sidewall split, you will need a new tire as well as a new tube. If only the tube is punctured and the tire looks intact, the tube alone is enough.
Key Takeaways
- You need tire levers, a new inner tube in the correct size, and a pump; the whole job takes 15 minutes once you have these items.
- Remove the wheel from the frame by opening the quick-release lever or unscrewing the axle nuts, depending on your bike.
- Use tire levers to pry one side of the tire off the rim, then pull out the old tube and remove the tire completely if you are replacing it.
- Insert the new tube partway, then work the tire bead back onto the rim by hand and with the levers, checking that the tube is not pinched.
- Inflate the tire to the pressure printed on its sidewall, starting slowly to seat the bead properly.
Remove the wheel from your bike
Flip your bike upside down so it rests on the handlebars and seat, or use a bike stand if you have one. This keeps the wheel accessible and your hands free.
For the rear wheel, shift to the smallest cog first, then open the derailleur cage by hand to create slack in the chain. If your bike has a quick-release lever on the axle, flip it open and unscrew the opposite nut by hand until the wheel lifts free. If your bike has bolt-on axles instead, use a wrench to unscrew both nuts, then slide the wheel out.
For the front wheel, open the quick-release lever or unscrew the axle nuts the same way. The front wheel will drop free once the axle is loose.
Pry the tire off the rim
Locate the valve stem (the small tube sticking out of the rim where you pump air in). Insert a tire lever under the tire bead — the edge of the tire that sits on the rim — about 6 inches away from the valve. Pry downward to lift the tire edge over the rim lip.
Once the first section is loose, slide the tire lever around the rim to lift the entire tire bead off on one side. You do not need to remove the tire completely yet; one side loose is enough. Pull the old inner tube out from under the tire.
If you are replacing the tire itself because it is torn or worn, use the tire levers to pry the second bead off the rim and remove the tire completely. If the tire is good and only the tube was punctured, leave the tire on the rim — you will reinstall the new tube inside it.
Install the new tube
Inflate the new tube slightly — just enough so it holds its shape and does not fold on itself. This prevents the tube from twisting inside the tire, which can cause pinches and flats.
Insert the valve stem through the rim hole first. Tuck the rest of the tube under the tire, working your way around the wheel. The tube should sit evenly all the way around, with no twists or bunches.
If you removed the old tire, lay the new tire on the rim first, then insert the tube the same way. Make sure the tube is not trapped between the tire and rim anywhere.
Reseat the tire bead onto the rim
Starting opposite the valve stem, use your hands to roll the tire bead back onto the rim. Work your way around the wheel, pushing the tire edge down and inward. The last section, near the valve, will be tight — this is normal.
If your hands cannot roll the bead on completely, use a tire lever to pry it over the rim lip. Insert the lever under the bead and pry gently, then move a few inches and repeat. Work your way around the wheel. Do this slowly so you do not pinch the new tube between the tire and rim.
Once the tire is fully seated, check that the tube is not visible anywhere between the tire and rim. If you see rubber bulging out, the tube is pinched — deflate, adjust, and try again.
Inflate and check the pressure
Attach your pump to the valve stem. Inflate slowly at first — the first few pumps seat the tire bead properly. Once the tire feels firm, inflate to the pressure printed on the tire sidewall. This pressure is usually between 40 and 100 psi depending on the tire width and type.
Stop inflating when you reach the target pressure. Overinflating can burst the tube or damage the tire; underinflating will cause pinch flats and poor handling.
Detach the pump and check that the tire is seated evenly all the way around the rim. The bead line (a thin line molded into the tire) should be parallel to the rim edge on both sides. If it bulges out on one side, deflate slightly, adjust, and reinflate.
Reinstall the wheel on your bike
For the front wheel, align the axle with the fork dropouts (the slots at the end of the fork) and slide the axle in. Tighten the quick-release lever or axle nuts until the wheel is snug and does not move side to side.
For the rear wheel, pull the derailleur cage back and guide the chain onto the smallest cog. Align the axle with the dropouts and slide it in. Tighten the quick-release or axle nuts. Spin the wheel to make sure it does not rub the frame or brake pads.
Flip your bike upright and take a short test ride on flat ground. The tire should feel firm and responsive. If it feels soft or the bike pulls to one side, stop and check the pressure and wheel alignment.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a Presta and Schrader valve?
A Schrader valve looks like a car tire valve — wide and with a removable cap. A Presta valve is narrower and has a small nut at the top that you unscrew before inflating. Most road bikes use Presta; most mountain and casual bikes use Schrader. Check your current rim to see which type you have, then buy a tube with the matching valve.
Can I patch a tube instead of replacing it?
Yes, if the hole is small and not near the valve. Patch kits cost $3 to $5 and work well for emergency repairs. However, a new tube is faster, more reliable, and only slightly more expensive. Many riders carry a patch kit as backup but replace the tube on the road and patch it at home later.
What if the tire bead will not seat onto the rim?
The bead is stuck if it will not roll on by hand or with tire levers. Deflate the tube completely, explore a small amount of soapy water around the rim edge to reduce friction, and try again. If the rim is bent or the tire is the wrong size, it will not seat — check that the tire size matches the rim size printed on your wheel.
How do I know if my tire is worn out or just punctured?
A puncture is a small hole in the rubber. A worn tire has a flat or shiny tread, visible cracks in the rubber, or a bulge in the sidewall. If the tread is worn smooth or the sidewall is damaged, replace the tire. If you see only a small hole and the rest of the tire looks good, the tube is the problem.
Should I replace both tires at the same time?
No, only replace the tire that is damaged or worn. However, if both tires are old and worn, replacing them together makes sense because they will wear at the same rate going forward. Check both tires before you start the job so you know whether to buy one tube or two.