What you need before you start

Replacing a bicycle tire takes about 15 to 30 minutes once you have the right tools. You will need a new tire that matches your wheel size (printed on the side of your old tire), two tire levers (plastic or metal tools that pry the tire off the rim), and a pump. If you are also replacing the inner tube, buy one in the same size as your tire. Many people replace both at once because a new tube costs $8 to $15 and lasts longer than a patched one.

Before you buy anything, check your tire size. Look at the sidewall of your current tire — you will see a number like 26 x 1.95 or 700 x 28c. Write this down and bring it to the bike shop or use it to search online. The size must match exactly. If you are not sure whether you need a new tire, inner tube, or both, a shop can tell you in seconds.

Key Takeaways

  • Your tire size is printed on the sidewall of your current tire, and you must buy the exact same size to fit your rim.
  • You need two tire levers, a pump, and either a new tire, new tube, or both — a shop can tell you which in one visit.
  • Remove the wheel from the frame, deflate the tire completely, and use tire levers to pry the old tire off the rim starting opposite the valve.
  • Seat the new tire bead into the rim groove all the way around before inflating, or the tire will not sit evenly and may burst.
  • Inflate slowly and check that the tire sits straight on both sides of the rim before you reach full pressure.

Remove the wheel from your bike

Flip your bike upside down so it rests on the handlebars and seat, or use a bike stand if you have one. This keeps your hands free and the wheel at a comfortable height. For the front wheel, open the quick-release lever on the hub (the center of the wheel) or unscrew the axle nuts by hand, depending on which your bike has. Pull the wheel straight out of the fork.

For the rear wheel, shift to the smallest cog first so the chain hangs loose. Open the quick-release or unscrew the axle nuts, then pull the derailleur (the mechanism that moves the chain) backward and lift the wheel out of the chain. Set the wheel on a clean surface so the tire does not pick up dirt.

Pry off the old tire and tube

Let all the air out of the tire by pressing the valve or unscrewing the valve cap and pressing the pin inside. Once the tire is completely flat, insert a tire lever under the tire bead (the edge that sits in the rim) about 6 inches away from the valve. Pry the bead up and over the rim edge. Hook the other end of the lever to a spoke so it stays in place.

Move around the wheel about 12 inches and insert the second lever. Pry again and hook it to another spoke. Repeat this process, moving your levers around the wheel, until one side of the tire is completely free of the rim. Once one bead is loose, you can usually pull the tire off by hand. Remove the old inner tube and set it aside.

Inspect the inside of the rim for thorns, glass, or sharp edges that might have caused the flat. Run your finger carefully along the rim tape (the strip that covers the spoke holes). If you find anything sharp, remove it. A puncture that happens twice in the same spot usually means something is still stuck in the tire or rim.

Install the new tube and tire

Inflate the new inner tube just enough so it holds its shape — about one-quarter full. This makes it easier to seat inside the tire without twisting or pinching. Insert the valve through the rim hole first, then tuck the tube evenly inside the tire all the way around. Make sure the tube is not twisted or bunched anywhere.

Starting opposite the valve, push one bead of the tire back into the rim groove. Work your way around, using your hands to roll the tire onto the rim. When you get close to the valve, you may need to push the valve up into the tire to create slack. Once one bead is fully seated, flip the wheel and repeat on the other side. The last section will be tight — this is normal. Push the valve up again and roll the final bead into place.

Inflate and check the seal

Before you inflate to full pressure, check that the tire bead is seated evenly all the way around. Look at the line molded into the tire sidewall — it should sit at the same height above the rim on both sides of the wheel. If one side is higher or lower, deflate slightly, adjust the bead by hand, and try again. Once the bead looks even, inflate slowly to about half pressure and check again.

Inflate the rest of the way to the pressure printed on your tire sidewall. Most road tires go to 80 to 130 psi (pounds per square inch), while mountain and hybrid tires typically go to 30 to 50 psi. Use a pump with a pressure gauge so you can see when you reach the right pressure. Over-inflating can burst the tire; under-inflating causes the tire to wear unevenly and makes the bike harder to pedal.

Reinstall the wheel on your bike

For the front wheel, align the wheel between the fork blades and push the axle all the way into the slots. Close the quick-release lever firmly or tighten the axle nuts by hand until snug. Spin the wheel to make sure it does not rub on the brake pads or frame.

For the rear wheel, pull the derailleur backward, lift the chain onto the smallest cog, and slide the axle into the slots. Make sure the chain sits on top of the cog and the wheel sits centered between the chain stays (the two tubes that form the rear triangle). Close the quick-release or tighten the axle nuts. Spin the wheel and shift through the gears to confirm the chain moves smoothly.

When to call a shop instead

If the tire bead will not seat evenly no matter how many times you adjust it, the rim may be bent or the tire may be the wrong size. Stop and take the wheel to a shop — forcing it can damage the tire or tube. If you puncture the new tube while installing it, you will hear a hiss. Remove the wheel, take out the tube, and start over with a fresh one.

If your bike has rim brakes and the wheel rubs after you reinstall it, the rim may be slightly bent from the flat. A shop can true the wheel (straighten it) in 10 minutes. If you have disc brakes and the rotor rubs, make sure the wheel is fully seated in the slots before you tighten the quick-release or axle nuts.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to replace the tube every time I get a flat?

No. If the puncture is small and you know what caused it, you can patch the tube with a patch kit ($3 to $5). Patches work well for thorns and small holes. If the valve is damaged, the tube has a large tear, or you have patched it more than twice, buy a new tube instead.

What if I do not know whether my tire is flat or just soft?

Press your thumb hard into the tire. If it barely dents, it is properly inflated. If your thumb sinks in more than a quarter-inch, it needs air. A soft tire can sometimes be re-inflated without removing the wheel — just use your pump at the valve. If it stays soft after 24 hours, you have a slow leak and need to replace the tube or tire.

Can I use a tire lever on a rim brake?

Yes, but be careful not to bend the brake arm. Work on the opposite side of the wheel from the brake. If you are uncomfortable working near the brake, remove the wheel first and work on a flat surface away from the frame.

How tight should the quick-release lever be?

Close it firmly enough that you cannot open it with one hand, but not so tight that you need a wrench. Your palm should feel resistance when you flip the lever closed. If it is too loose, the wheel can slip during a ride. If it is too tight, you will have trouble removing the wheel next time.

What pressure should I use if the tire says a range like 50-65 psi?

Start at the middle of the range (57 or 58 psi in this example). If the bike feels bouncy or the tire bulges noticeably, go lower. If it feels harsh or you notice the tire rolling slowly, go higher. You can adjust pressure without removing the wheel — just use your pump at the valve.