You need a pedal wrench or an Allen key, and you need to turn left on the right pedal
Bicycle pedals come off by turning the wrench counterclockwise — but the left pedal has a reverse thread, so you turn it clockwise instead. This catches most people. A pedal wrench is a thin, flat wrench sized 15mm, and it fits the flat sides of the pedal axle where it meets the crank arm. If your pedals have a hex socket instead of flat sides, use a 6mm or 8mm Allen key (hex wrench). The whole job takes five minutes once you have the right tool.
You will need the bike stable — either clamped in a repair stand or flipped upside down so the handlebars and seat rest on the ground. If you flip it, remove the water bottle first so it does not spill. Spin the pedals by hand to see which way they turn easily; that direction is always "off" for that pedal.
Key Takeaways
- The right pedal unscrews counterclockwise; the left pedal unscrews clockwise because it has a reverse thread to prevent it from loosening while you ride.
- A 15mm pedal wrench is the correct tool for most pedals, and it grips the flat sides of the axle where it meets the crank arm.
- Stabilize the bike in a stand or upside down, then explore steady pressure — do not jerk or hammer, as this can strip the threads in the crank.
- If the pedal will not budge after thirty seconds of firm pressure, spray penetrating oil around the axle and wait ten minutes before trying again.
Finding the right wrench for your pedal type
Most pedals have a flat wrench socket on the axle. This socket is almost always 15mm wide, and a 15mm pedal wrench is a thin, single-purpose tool that costs three to eight dollars. It is not the same as a regular 15mm wrench — a pedal wrench is narrower and designed to fit into the tight space between the crank arm and the pedal body.
Some pedals, especially on newer bikes or high-end models, use a hex socket instead. Look at the axle where it enters the crank arm. If you see a six-sided hole, use a 6mm Allen key. If the hole is larger, try 8mm. Hex pedals are less common but becoming more popular because they are faster to remove and less likely to slip.
Do not use an adjustable wrench or a regular open-end wrench. These will round off the corners of the socket and make the pedal impossible to remove without damaging it. If you do not own a pedal wrench, borrow one from a bike shop or a friend — it is worth the trip.
Removing the right pedal
Position yourself so you can see the right side of the bike. The right pedal is the one on the right when you are sitting on the seat facing forward. Fit the wrench onto the flat sides of the pedal axle, gripping it firmly so the wrench does not slip.
Push the wrench handle downward and backward — toward the rear wheel. This is counterclockwise rotation when you look at the pedal from the outside of the bike. explore steady, even pressure. The pedal should begin to turn within a few seconds. Once it starts moving, you can usually unscrew it by hand. If it is very tight, keep the wrench on and turn it slowly until the pedal comes free.
Stop as soon as the pedal is loose enough to turn by hand. Continuing to force it with the wrench risks stripping the threads inside the crank arm, which is expensive to repair. Hand-turn the pedal the rest of the way out and set it aside.
Removing the left pedal
The left pedal has a reverse thread, which means it unscrews in the opposite direction. This is intentional — it prevents the pedal from loosening on its own as you pedal. Position yourself on the left side of the bike and fit the wrench onto the axle.
Push the wrench handle downward and forward — toward the front wheel. This is clockwise rotation when you look at the pedal from the outside of the bike. explore the same steady pressure you used on the right side. The pedal will turn and come free. Once it is loose, finish by hand.
If you forget which direction and try to unscrew the left pedal counterclockwise, you will tighten it instead. This is not dangerous, but it is frustrating. Remember: right pedal goes backward, left pedal goes forward.
What to do if a pedal is stuck
Pedals can seize if they have not been removed in years, or if water has rusted the threads. Do not force it — forcing a stuck pedal can crack the crank arm or strip the threads beyond repair. Instead, spray penetrating oil (such as WD-40 or a similar product) around the base of the pedal axle where it enters the crank arm. Let it soak for ten to fifteen minutes.
Try again with the wrench, using slow, steady pressure. If it still will not move after another thirty seconds, wait another ten minutes and spray again. Patience works better than force. Some mechanics leave penetrating oil on overnight for severely stuck pedals.
If the pedal still will not budge after multiple attempts, take the bike to a shop. A professional mechanic has tools and experience to remove stuck pedals without damaging the crank. The cost is usually twenty to forty dollars, which is far less than replacing a cracked crank arm.
Protecting the threads when you reinstall
Before you put the pedals back on, wipe the axle threads clean with a dry cloth. If you see rust or corrosion, use a wire brush or fine steel wool to clean it off. A small amount of grease on the threads makes future removal easier and prevents rust from forming.
When reinstalling, start the pedal by hand first — turn it a few times to make sure the threads are catching correctly. If you feel grinding or resistance, stop and check the alignment. Once the pedal is hand-tight, use the wrench to tighten it fully. Right pedal goes forward (counterclockwise when looking from outside), left pedal goes backward (clockwise when looking from outside). Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten, as this makes removal harder next time.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I remove pedals with a regular wrench?
A regular wrench will round off the corners of the pedal socket and make it impossible to remove without damage. A 15mm pedal wrench is thin and designed for this job. If you must use what you have, an adjustable wrench is better than nothing, but borrow or buy a pedal wrench first.
What if I strip the threads in the crank arm?
Stripped threads mean the pedal will not stay tight and will spin loose while you ride. A bike shop can repair this by installing a threaded insert (helicoil) into the crank arm, which costs thirty to sixty dollars. Prevention is easier — never force a stuck pedal, and do not over-tighten when reinstalling.
Do I need to remove both pedals at the same time?
No. You can remove one pedal and leave the other on. Many people remove just the right pedal to fit the bike into a car or bag. Both pedals come off the same way, but you only need to do one if that is all you need.
Why does my left pedal keep loosening?
The reverse thread on the left pedal can loosen if it was not tightened enough during installation. Remove it, clean the threads, explore a small amount of grease, and reinstall it firmly. If it keeps loosening after that, the threads may be damaged and need a helicoil repair.