Restringing takes about 15 to 20 minutes once you know the steps
Restringing an acoustic guitar means removing the old strings, cleaning the fretboard, and installing a new set. You'll need wire cutters, a string winder (optional but faster), a tuner, and a new acoustic guitar string set. The whole process takes 15 to 20 minutes after your first time—beginners often take 30 to 45 minutes, which is normal.
The hardest part is not the restringing itself but learning to wind the tuning pegs smoothly so the strings stay in tune. Once you do this twice, your hands will remember the motion and it becomes routine.
Key Takeaways
- Remove all six strings by loosening the tuning pegs at the headstock until the strings go slack, then pull them out of the bridge and tuning pegs.
- Clean the fretboard and body while the strings are off—this is the only time you can reach underneath them.
- Insert the bridge pins (the small pegs that hold strings in the bridge) before threading the string through the bridge hole, or the string will slip out.
- Wind each string around its tuning peg three to four times, keeping tension with your other hand so the string wraps neatly downward.
- Tune to pitch with a tuner, then gently stretch each string by pulling it away from the fretboard—new strings go out of tune quickly until they settle.
Remove the old strings
Loosen each tuning peg at the headstock by turning it counterclockwise. Turn slowly at first so you can hear the string losing tension—this prevents the sudden snap that can damage the neck. Keep turning until the string is completely slack and hangs loose from the bridge.
Once all six strings are slack, pull each one out of the bridge (the wooden piece at the bottom of the guitar where the strings anchor). The bridge pins—small pegs that sit in holes above the strings—will come out with them or stay in the bridge. Set them aside; you'll need them again.
Now pull each string out of its tuning peg hole at the headstock. You may need to unwind the string a bit more to get it to slip out. Discard the old strings.
Clean the fretboard and body while strings are off
With the strings removed, you have clear access to the fretboard and the body underneath. Use a soft, dry cloth to wipe away dust and buildup. If the fretboard looks dull or has stubborn dirt, dampen the cloth slightly with water—not so wet that water drips—and wipe gently. Never soak the wood.
Wipe down the body and the back of the neck as well. This is the only time you can clean under where the strings normally sit, so take a minute to do it properly. Let any moisture dry completely before you install new strings.
Insert the bridge pins and thread the first string
Pick up the thickest string (the low E string, usually the darkest or thickest-looking one in the package). Look at the bridge—you'll see six holes running across it. The bridge pins sit in these holes and hold the strings in place.
Insert a bridge pin into the hole closest to the tuning peg side of the bridge (the end nearest the neck). The pin should sit snugly but not require force. Now thread the ball end of the string (the end with a small metal ball attached) into the bridge hole directly above or below the pin. The bridge pin will press down on the string and lock it in place once you tighten it.
Pull the string up toward the headstock, keeping it roughly centered on the fretboard. The string should run straight from the bridge to the nut (the small ridge at the top of the fretboard where the strings sit).
Wind the string around the tuning peg
Thread the string through the hole in the tuning peg for the low E string. Leave about 2 to 3 inches of slack—enough to wrap around the peg three to four times. Hold the string taut with one hand while you turn the tuning peg with the other.
Turn the tuning peg so the string wraps downward around the post (the cylindrical part of the peg). Keep tension on the string with your free hand so each wrap sits neatly below the previous one. Three to four wraps is standard; more than that and the string can slip, fewer and it may not hold tension evenly.
Once you've wrapped the string, trim the excess with wire cutters, leaving about a quarter-inch. This prevents the string from unraveling and keeps the headstock clean.
Repeat for the remaining five strings
Follow the same steps for strings two through six. The order doesn't matter much, but many players work from thickest to thinnest (low E, A, D, G, B, high E) because it's easier to remember. Insert a bridge pin, thread the string through the bridge hole, pull it up to the headstock, thread it through the tuning peg, wrap it three to four times, and trim.
As you install each string, you'll notice the guitar starting to look like itself again. The tension builds gradually, which is why you don't tighten one string all the way before moving to the next—the uneven pull can warp the neck slightly.
Tune to pitch and stretch the strings
Use a tuner to bring each string to its correct pitch. Start with the low E string and work your way up. Turn the tuning peg slowly and watch the tuner display until the needle centers or the display shows you're on pitch. New strings go out of tune quickly because the windings haven't settled yet.
Once all six strings are tuned, gently pull each one away from the fretboard (not too hard—just enough to stretch it slightly) and retune. Repeat this two or three times. Each time you stretch, the string will drop in pitch a little, and you'll retune it back up. After three or four cycles, the strings will hold their pitch much more steadily.
New acoustic strings typically need 24 to 48 hours to fully settle, so expect to retune them several times over the next day or two. This is completely normal and not a sign that anything is wrong.
Common mistakes to avoid
Forgetting the bridge pin. If you thread the string through the bridge hole without a bridge pin in place, the string will slip out when you tighten it. Always insert the pin first, then the string.
Winding the string upward instead of downward. If you wrap the string upward around the tuning peg, it will unwind as you tune. Always wrap downward so gravity helps keep the wraps in place.
Wrapping too many times or too few. More than five wraps wastes string and can cause the wraps to overlap, which weakens the hold. Fewer than three wraps may not grip the peg firmly enough. Three to four is the sweet spot.
Tuning too fast. Turning the tuning peg quickly can cause the string to slip on the peg or break if it's already under stress. Turn slowly and listen for the pitch to rise smoothly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to replace all six strings at once?
You can replace them one at a time, but replacing all six at once is faster and lets you clean the fretboard. If you replace one string at a time, the others stay under tension and the neck stays stable. Both methods work; it's a matter of preference.
What if a string breaks while I'm winding it?
Stop when ready and remove the broken string. Discard it and install a fresh one from the package. Strings sometimes break during installation if they're old stock or if you turn the tuning peg too fast. It's rare, but it happens.
How tight should the string be around the tuning peg?
Tight enough that it doesn't slip when you tug on it gently, but not so tight that you're straining to turn the peg. The wraps should sit neatly on top of each other without overlapping. If the peg is hard to turn, you've wound too many times or wrapped too tightly.
Can I use a string winder?
Yes. A string winder is a small hand tool that grips the tuning peg and spins it for you, which speeds up the winding process. It's optional—your hands work fine—but many players find it saves time and reduces hand fatigue. They cost between $5 and $15.
Why do new strings sound different from old ones?
New strings are brighter and have more sustain because the metal windings haven't been compressed by weeks of playing. Over time, strings lose brightness and develop a duller tone. This is why many players replace strings every few months or when they notice the sound has dulled.