Stringing a classical guitar means threading new nylon strings through the bridge and headstock, then tuning them to pitch
A classical guitar uses three plain nylon strings (the high E, B, and G) and three wound strings (the D, A, and low E). The strings go into the bridge at the body's lower end, loop around bridge pins or tie knots, then run up the neck to the headstock tuning pegs. The whole job takes 20 to 40 minutes if you have never done it before, and the strings need a few hours to settle before they hold pitch reliably.
You will need a new set of classical guitar strings, wire cutters, a string winder (optional but speeds the job), and a tuner. Classical strings come in sets of six, usually labeled by tension: normal, high, or low. If you are replacing old strings, remove all six at once so you can clean the fretboard underneath.
Key Takeaways
- Classical guitar strings thread through the bridge and are held by bridge pins or tied knots, not wound around tuning pegs like steel-string guitars.
- Remove all six old strings at once, clean the fretboard, then insert the new strings one at a time starting with the thickest (low E).
- Wind each string around its tuning peg in a neat spiral, keeping tension on the string so it does not slip.
- New nylon strings stretch and go flat over the first few hours, so expect to retune several times before they stabilize.
- Tie the plain nylon strings (high E, B, G) with a knot at the bridge; wind strings can use bridge pins if your guitar has them.
Remove the old strings and prepare the bridge
Loosen all six tuning pegs at the headstock by turning them counterclockwise until the strings are slack. You can then pull them out of the tuning peg holes. At the bridge end, remove any bridge pins if your guitar has them—they sit on top of the bridge and hold the strings in place. If your guitar has no pins, the strings are tied directly to the bridge.
Once all strings are out, use a soft cloth to wipe down the fretboard, the top of the body, and the back of the neck. This is the only time you can easily reach these spots without strings in the way. If the fretboard looks dry, a tiny amount of lemon oil on the cloth helps, but do not soak it.
Insert the thickest string (low E) into the bridge
The low E string is the thickest and goes into the bridge slot closest to the body's edge. Push the string's ball end (the small metal loop at one end) firmly into the bridge hole until it seats. If your guitar uses bridge pins, place the pin on top of the string to hold it down. If your guitar has no pins, you will tie a knot around the bridge instead.
For a tied bridge, make a loop at the end of the string, pass the string around the bridge, and pull it tight so the knot sits under the bridge. The knot should be snug enough that the string does not slip when you pull on it. This takes practice—if the knot slips the first time, untie it and try again with a tighter knot.
Wind the string onto the tuning peg
Pull the string up toward the headstock, keeping it straight and under light tension. Insert the free end into the tuning peg hole on the headstock. The hole should be on the side of the peg that faces away from the center of the headstock. Leave about two inches of slack so you have room to wind.
Turn the tuning peg so the string winds around the peg in a spiral, moving downward toward the base. Keep tension on the string with your other hand so it winds neatly without overlapping itself. A string winder speeds this up—it clamps onto the peg and lets you turn it with a handle, but you can also turn the peg by hand. Wind until the string is snug and has no slack, then stop. Do not over-tighten yet; you will tune to pitch after all six strings are in.
Repeat for the A and D strings (the wound strings)
The A string (second thickest) and D string (third thickest) are wound strings, meaning they have a thin wire wrapped around a core. They go into the next two bridge holes. Insert each one the same way: ball end into the bridge hole, bridge pin on top if your guitar has them, or a knot underneath if it does not. Wind each one onto its tuning peg the same way you did the low E, keeping the spiral neat and the tension even.
Wound strings are less likely to slip than plain nylon, but they still need firm knots or pins to stay in place. If a wound string slips at the bridge, the knot was not tight enough—untie it and retie it harder.
Add the three plain nylon strings (G, B, and high E)
The G string (fourth string), B string (fifth string), and high E string (sixth string) are plain nylon with no winding. They are thinner and more prone to slipping, so the knot at the bridge is especially important. For each one, make a loop at the end, pass the string around the bridge, and pull it tight. The knot should be so firm that you cannot move the string by hand.
Wind each plain string onto its tuning peg the same way as the wound strings. Because they are thinner, they are easier to break if you over-tighten, so wind them snug but not with maximum force. Once all six strings are wound and seated, you are ready to tune.
Tune the strings and let them settle
Use a tuner to bring each string up to pitch: low E, A, D, G, B, and high E. Start with the low E and work your way up. Turn the tuning peg slowly and watch the tuner until the string is in tune. New nylon strings stretch as you tune them, so you may need to tune each string two or three times as the others pull the neck into a new shape.
Once all six strings are in tune, let the guitar sit for a few hours. The strings will go flat as they settle, so retune them before you play. Over the next day or two, retune whenever the pitch drops. After about 24 hours, new nylon strings usually hold pitch much more reliably, though they may continue to stretch slightly for a week or two.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between bridge pins and a tied bridge?
Bridge pins are small pegs that sit on top of the bridge and hold the string in place. A tied bridge has no pins; instead, you tie the string in a knot around the bridge itself. Classical guitars use both methods. Check your guitar to see which one yours has, or look at the bridge—if there are holes with small pegs in them, you have pins. If the bridge is smooth on top, you tie knots.
Can I replace one string at a time instead of all six?
Yes, you can replace strings one at a time, though replacing all six at once lets you clean the fretboard. If you replace one string, loosen it, remove it, and install the new one the same way. The remaining strings will stay in tune while you work.
How tight should I wind the string around the tuning peg?
Wind it snug so there is no slack and the string does not slip, but not so tight that you strain the peg or the headstock. If you can turn the peg smoothly without the string moving, the tension is right. Over-tightening can crack the headstock or break the string.
Why do new strings go flat so quickly?
Nylon stretches when you first put it under tension. As the string stretches, it gets longer and the pitch drops. This is normal and stops after a few hours. Retune whenever the pitch drops, and the strings will stabilize.
Do I need to cut the excess string at the headstock?
You can trim the excess string after it is wound and tuned, but it is not necessary. Some players leave it long for a cleaner look, while others trim it to avoid sharp ends. If you trim, use wire cutters and leave about half an inch so the string does not unwind from the peg.