Electric guitar prices range from under $200 to several thousand dollars, depending on brand, build quality, and whether it's new or used
A playable electric guitar starts around $150 to $200 for a beginner package that includes the guitar, a small amplifier, and a cable. Mid-range guitars—the ones most players stick with for years—run $400 to $1,000. Professional-grade instruments and vintage models can cost $2,000 to $10,000 or more. The price you pay reflects real differences in materials, construction, electronics, and resale value, not just the brand name on the headstock.
The guitar itself and the amplifier are separate purchases. Many beginners assume a $300 guitar comes with an amp, but it doesn't. Budget for both: a starter amp runs $50 to $150, a mid-range amp $200 to $600. You'll also need a cable ($10 to $30), a strap ($15 to $50), and a tuner ($15 to $40). A realistic first-time budget is $400 to $800 for everything you need to play.
Key Takeaways
- Entry-level electric guitars cost $150 to $300 new; mid-range guitars that professionals use run $400 to $1,200.
- The amplifier is a separate purchase and costs at least $50 to $150 for a beginner model; don't assume it's included.
- Used guitars from reputable sellers often cost 30 to 50 percent less than new and hold their value better than cheap new ones.
- Wood quality, pickup type, and hardware construction are the main reasons prices differ between guitars at similar price points.
- Buying used from a music store or established seller is safer than private sales because you can inspect the instrument and return it if needed.
What separates a $200 guitar from a $1,000 guitar
The biggest difference is wood quality and construction. A $200 guitar often uses plywood or laminated wood for the body and cheaper hardware. A $1,000 guitar uses solid wood, better frets that stay in tune longer, and hardware that doesn't wear out as fast. The neck—the part you hold—is straighter and more stable on expensive guitars, which means it needs less adjustment over time.
Pickups are the magnets under the strings that capture vibration and send it to the amp. Cheap pickups sound thin and noisy. Better pickups have clearer tone and less hum. A $200 guitar might have generic pickups; a $1,000 guitar has brand-name pickups from companies like Seymour Duncan or DiMarzio that players actually choose for their sound.
Electronics matter too. A $200 guitar might have a single volume knob and one pickup selector. A $1,000 guitar often has separate volume and tone controls, better switches that don't crackle, and wiring that stays reliable. These aren't cosmetic—they affect how the guitar responds when you play and how long it lasts before something breaks.
New versus used: where the real savings are
A used mid-range guitar ($600 to $800 new) often costs $300 to $500 used and plays just as well as the day it left the factory. A used beginner guitar ($200 new) might cost $100 to $150 used, but here's the catch: if it was cheap to begin with, it may have developed problems—frets that have worn unevenly, a neck that's warped, or electronics that crackle. Cheap guitars don't age well.
Buy used from a music store, not a private seller, if you're new to guitars. A store will have inspected the guitar, adjusted the neck and action (the height of the strings), and replaced worn parts. You can return it if something's wrong. A private seller won't offer that protection, and you may not know what you're looking at until you get home.
Vintage guitars—instruments 20 or 30 years old from brands like Fender or Gibson—often cost more used than new mid-range guitars because they hold value and players seek them out. Don't confuse vintage with old. An old cheap guitar is still a cheap guitar; a vintage Fender Stratocaster is an investment.
Budget breakdown: what you actually need to spend
| Item | Budget Range | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Guitar (new) | $150–$300 (beginner)$400–$1,200 (mid-range) | Playable but may need setup; mid-range holds value and lasts years |
| Amplifier | $50–$150 (beginner)$200–$600 (mid-range) | Beginner amps are small and loud enough for bedroom practice; mid-range amps sound better and last longer |
| Cable | $10–$30 | Don't cheap out; a bad cable adds noise and can fail mid-performance |
| Strap | $15–$50 | Cheap straps slip or break; a decent one is worth it |
| Tuner | $15–$40 | Clip-on tuners are accurate and work anywhere; phone apps are free but less reliable |
| Picks and strings | $10–$20 | Buy a variety of pick thicknesses; strings wear out and need replacing every few months |
| Total First-Time Setup | $400–$800 | Everything you need to play and practice |
Brands that hold their value
Fender, Gibson, Ibanez, and Schecter are the brands most players recognize and most buyers will pay for used. A used Fender Stratocaster or Telecaster from 10 years ago will sell for 50 to 70 percent of what it cost new. A used no-name brand guitar from the same period might sell for 20 to 30 percent of its original price, if it sells at all.
This matters if you ever want to sell. A $500 Ibanez will resell for $250 to $350. A $500 guitar from a brand nobody's heard of might resell for $100 to $150. You're not just paying for sound—you're paying for something other players will want to buy later. If you're serious about playing, this is worth the extra money upfront.
When to spend more and when to save
Spend more on the guitar itself if you plan to play regularly. A $600 guitar will feel better under your hands, stay in tune longer, and sound clearer than a $200 guitar. You'll practice more because it's more fun to play. Spend less on the amp if you're only playing at home—a $50 to $100 beginner amp is fine for bedroom practice.
Don't spend extra on a guitar case right away. A $30 gig bag (a padded backpack-style case) protects the guitar well enough for moving between home and a lesson or a friend's house. A $100 hard case is worth it only if you're gigging or traveling by plane. Don't buy a $2,000 guitar and protect it with a $20 case, but a beginner doesn't need a flight case.
Avoid "starter packs" that bundle a cheap guitar, cheap amp, and cheap cable for one low price. The individual pieces are usually lower quality than if you bought them separately. You're paying for convenience, not value. Buy the guitar and amp from different places if you have to—you'll end up with better gear.
How to avoid overpaying
Play the guitar before you buy it. A guitar that looks identical to another might feel completely different in your hands. Neck width, body weight, and how the strings respond to your touch vary even between guitars of the same model. If you're buying online, buy from a retailer with a return policy so you can send it back if it doesn't feel right.
Check the action—the height of the strings above the fretboard. High action makes the guitar harder to play and hurts your fingers. Low action causes buzzing. A good guitar comes with action already set correctly. If you buy used and the action is wrong, a setup at a repair shop costs $50 to $100 but makes a huge difference.
Don't assume expensive means better for your situation. A $3,000 professional guitar is wasted on someone who plays 20 minutes a week. A $500 mid-range guitar will teach you everything you need to know and sound great doing it. Spend what matches your commitment level, not what impresses other people.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a $200 guitar good enough to learn on?
Yes, but with limits. A $200 guitar is playable and won't hold you back from learning basics. The problem is durability—cheap guitars develop frets that buzz, necks that warp, and electronics that fail. If you're serious about playing past three months, a $400 to $600 guitar is a better investment because it will last years and still sound good.
Do I need to buy a guitar and amp from the same brand?
No. Guitar and amp brands are completely separate. A Fender guitar works with any amp, a Gibson with any amp. Buy each one based on what sounds good to you and what fits your budget. Many players mix brands—a Fender guitar through a Marshall amp, for example.
What's the difference between a solid-body and semi-hollow electric guitar?
Solid-body guitars (like a Stratocaster) are lighter, don't feed back as easily, and are better for rock and metal. Semi-hollow guitars have a chamber inside the body, weigh more, and have a warmer tone—they're popular for jazz and blues. Both cost the same at similar price points. Pick based on the sound you want, not the price.
Should I buy a used guitar online or in person?
In person is safer because you can play it, inspect it for damage, and return it when ready if something's wrong. Online is riskier because you can't hear or feel it before it arrives. If you buy online, use a seller with a clear return policy and ask for photos of the back, front, and headstock before you pay.
Will a cheap guitar discourage me from practicing?
Sometimes. A guitar that's hard to play, sounds thin, or feels cheap in your hands makes practice feel like a chore. A mid-range guitar that feels good and sounds decent makes you want to pick it up. If budget is tight, save a little longer for a $400 guitar instead of buying a $150 one now—you'll practice more and quit less often.