Stringing a classical guitar means replacing old nylon strings with new ones, one at a time, and tuning them to pitch

Classical guitar strings are nylon, not metal. They slip into the bridge at the body end and wrap around tuning pegs at the headstock. You remove the old strings, clean the fretboard while it is exposed, then thread new strings through the bridge, wrap them around the tuning pegs, and bring each one up to pitch. The whole job takes 20 to 30 minutes once you know the steps.

You will need wire cutters, a string winder (optional but saves your hand), new classical guitar strings, and a tuner. A string winder is a small crank tool that turns the tuning pegs for you—it costs $8 to $15 and makes the work much faster. A tuner can be a clip-on device, a phone app, or a pedal tuner; any of these works.

Key Takeaways

  • Classical strings are nylon and come in three pairs: the three plain nylon strings (high E, B, G) and three wound strings (D, A, low E).
  • Remove all six old strings before installing new ones, which gives you a chance to clean the fretboard and bridge.
  • Each string threads through the bridge, wraps around its tuning peg three to four times, then gets wound up until it reaches pitch.
  • New strings take 24 to 48 hours to fully settle and hold pitch, so expect to retune several times in the first day.
  • If a string breaks during winding or a tuning peg spins without tightening, stop and call a repair shop rather than force it.

What you need before you start

Buy a set of classical guitar strings rated for your guitar's size. Classical guitars come in full size (4/4), three-quarter size (3/4), and half size (1/2). The package will say which size it fits. A full-size set costs $8 to $20 depending on the brand and material. Nylon strings come in different tensions—normal, high, and low—so match the tension to what your guitar shipped with if you can find that information in the manual or on the maker's website.

Gather wire cutters, a tuner, and a string winder if you have one. The string winder is not required, but winding by hand can tire your fingers and take twice as long. A clip-on tuner clips to the headstock and reads the vibration of each string; these cost $10 to $25 and work reliably. Keep a soft cloth nearby so you can wipe the fretboard and bridge while the strings are off.

How to remove the old strings

Loosen the tuning pegs at the headstock by turning them counterclockwise. Turn slowly and evenly—you are not racing. As the tension drops, the strings will go slack. Once all six are loose enough to move freely, unwind them completely from the tuning pegs by hand or with the string winder in reverse.

Pull the loose strings out of the bridge at the body end. On a classical guitar, the strings are held in the bridge by bridge pins—small wooden or plastic pegs that sit in holes above each string. Gently pry these pins out with a flat tool or your fingernail, then slide the old strings out. Do not force the pins; if one is stuck, wiggle it gently side to side while pulling.

Once the strings are out, wipe down the fretboard, the top of the guitar, and the bridge with a soft cloth. This is the only time you can easily reach these areas without strings in the way.

Threading new strings through the bridge

Classical guitar bridges have six holes, one for each string. The three plain nylon strings (the thinner ones) go in the three holes closest to the treble side (the thinner strings side). The three wound strings (thicker, with wire wrapping) go in the bass side holes. Check the package or your guitar's manual if you are unsure which string is which.

Take the first string—usually the low E (thickest wound string)—and insert it into its hole in the bridge from the top. Push it all the way through until about 2 inches of string hangs below the bridge. Slide the bridge pin into the hole above the string, pushing it down until it sits snug. The pin holds the string in place and prevents it from sliding out. Repeat this for all six strings.

Once all six strings are in the bridge with their pins seated, you are ready to wrap them around the tuning pegs.

Wrapping strings around the tuning pegs

Start with the low E string (thickest). Pull it up toward the headstock and insert the end into the hole in the low E tuning peg. Leave about 2 to 3 inches of slack so you have room to wrap. Bend the string at a right angle where it enters the peg hole, then begin turning the tuning peg counterclockwise (toward the center of the headstock) so the string wraps around the peg post.

Wrap the string neatly, keeping the wraps parallel and moving downward on the peg post. Aim for three to four wraps before the string reaches pitch. If you use a string winder, insert the peg into the winder's socket and crank slowly while guiding the string with your other hand. If you wind by hand, turn the peg steadily and keep tension on the string so the wraps stay tight and organized.

Once the string is wrapped, continue turning the peg until the string reaches the correct pitch. Use your tuner to check: pluck the string and watch the tuner display. Stop turning when the tuner shows the right note. Repeat this process for all six strings, working from the thickest to the thinnest.

Tuning and settling the new strings

After all six strings are wound and roughly in tune, go back and fine-tune each one. Pluck each string and adjust the tuning peg until the tuner shows the correct pitch. New nylon strings stretch as they settle, so the pitch will drop over the next 24 to 48 hours. Expect to retune several times in the first day.

Gently stretch each string by pulling it away from the fretboard at different points along its length. This helps the string settle faster and reduces the amount of retuning you will need to do. Do not pull hard enough to bend the string permanently—just a gentle, steady pull.

Leave the guitar in a stable environment away from direct heat or sunlight while the strings settle. Avoid playing hard or bending strings aggressively for the first 24 hours. After a day or two, the strings will hold pitch much more reliably.

When to stop and call a repair shop

If a string breaks while you are winding it, stop when ready. Do not try to tie the broken ends together or continue with a damaged string. Remove the broken string and install a replacement from a spare set or buy a single replacement string from a music shop.

If a tuning peg spins freely without tightening the string, or if it feels stuck and will not turn, do not force it. The peg mechanism may be damaged or the string may be wound incorrectly inside the peg hole. Take the guitar to a repair shop and have them check the tuning peg. Forcing a stuck peg can crack the headstock.

If the bridge pins are cracked or will not stay seated, or if a bridge pin hole is damaged, a repair shop can replace the pins or repair the bridge. These are not jobs to improvise.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace one string at a time instead of all six?

Yes. Loosen and remove one string, thread the new one through the bridge and around its tuning peg, then tune it to pitch before moving to the next string. This keeps tension on the neck and is easier on the guitar, though it takes longer because you cannot clean the fretboard. Many players prefer this method for routine string changes.

How often should I change classical guitar strings?

It depends on how often you play. Light players may change strings every 6 to 12 months. Regular players change them every 2 to 4 months. Change them sooner if they sound dull, feel rough, or break. New strings sound brighter and respond better to your touch.

Why do new strings go out of tune so quickly?

Nylon stretches as it settles under tension. The stretching is most dramatic in the first 24 to 48 hours, which is why new strings need frequent retuning at first. After a few days, the strings stabilize and hold pitch much longer between tunings.

What is the difference between plain and wound classical strings?

The three plain strings (high E, B, G) are solid nylon. The three wound strings (D, A, low E) have a nylon core wrapped with fine wire, which makes them thicker and heavier so they vibrate at lower pitches. You cannot swap them—each string is made for its specific pitch.

Do I need to cut the excess string after winding?

Yes. Once a string is wound and in tune, use wire cutters to trim the excess string hanging past the tuning peg post. Leave about half an inch so the string does not unwind, then cut the rest away. This keeps the headstock neat and prevents the loose ends from catching on things.