You can change acoustic guitar strings yourself in about 15 to 20 minutes once you know the steps

Changing acoustic guitar strings is a straightforward task that costs far less than paying someone else to do it. You need a string winder (optional but faster), wire cutters, and a new set of acoustic strings. The process involves removing the old strings, cleaning the fretboard, inserting the new strings into the bridge pins, threading them through the tuning pegs, and bringing them up to pitch. Most people get faster at this after the second or third time.

The hardest part for beginners is usually getting the bridge pins out without damaging them, and winding the strings evenly around the tuning pegs so they stay in tune. Both of these become straightforward once you know what to expect.

Key Takeaways

  • Remove old strings by loosening the tuning pegs until the strings go slack, then pull them out of the bridge and tuning pegs.
  • Bridge pins hold the strings in place at the bridge—pry them out gently with a string winder or the edge of a coin, not a screwdriver.
  • Insert new strings into the bridge holes, replace the bridge pins, and thread the other end through the tuning peg holes.
  • Wind each string around its tuning peg three to four times, keeping tension on the string so it winds neatly and stays in tune longer.
  • Bring the strings up to pitch gradually over several minutes, not all at once, to avoid sudden neck stress.

What you need before you start

Gather these items before you begin: a new set of acoustic guitar strings (bronze or phosphor bronze are standard), a string winder (a small hand tool that speeds up the winding process—costs $5 to $15 but is not required), wire cutters, and a tuner. You should also have a clean cloth nearby so you can wipe down the fretboard while the strings are off.

If you do not have a string winder, you can wind the strings by hand using the tuning pegs themselves, though it takes longer and requires more grip strength. A coin or the edge of a string winder can also pry out the bridge pins without scratching them—avoid using a screwdriver, which can split the pins or damage the bridge.

Remove the old strings

Loosen all six tuning pegs at the headstock until the strings go completely slack. You do not need to turn them all the way down—just enough that the strings have no tension. This makes the next steps safer and prevents sudden stress on the neck.

Pull each string out of the tuning peg hole. Then move to the bridge at the other end of the guitar. You will see six bridge pins (small pegs that hold the strings in place). Pry each one out gently using a string winder, a coin, or the edge of a plastic pick. Work from the side, not straight up, to avoid cracking the pins. Once the pins are out, pull the old strings free from the bridge holes.

This is a good time to wipe down the fretboard with a soft, dry cloth. You will not get another chance until the next string change.

Insert the new strings into the bridge

Take the thickest string (the low E string, usually wound with bronze or nickel) and insert it into the bridge hole closest to the tuning peg for that string. The bridge holes are arranged in order from thickest to thinnest string. Push the string in until about 2 inches of it sits below the bridge.

Replace the bridge pin for that string, pushing it in firmly so the groove in the pin aligns with the string. The pin should sit flush with the bridge surface. Repeat this for all six strings, working from thickest to thinnest. Do not force the pins—they should slide in smoothly once the string is seated.

Thread strings through the tuning pegs

Take the free end of the low E string and thread it through the tuning peg hole on the headstock. Leave about 2 to 3 inches of slack—this gives you enough string to wind around the peg without running out. Repeat for all six strings, making sure each string goes through the correct tuning peg (the thickest strings go to the outer pegs, the thinnest to the inner pegs).

At this point, all six strings should be loosely in place but not yet under tension. The guitar will look strung but will sound terrible and will not hold pitch.

Wind the strings around the tuning pegs

This is where a string winder saves time, but hand-winding works fine. Start with the low E string. Hold the string taut with one hand (keep slight tension on it) and turn the tuning peg with the other hand so the string winds around the peg post. Wind downward on the bass side (the thicker strings on the left side of the headstock) and upward on the treble side (the thinner strings on the right side). This keeps the strings from crossing over each other.

Aim for three to four complete wraps around the peg post. Too few wraps and the string will slip; too many and you waste string and make tuning harder. Keep tension on the string as you wind so the wraps sit neatly and do not overlap. Once you have wound enough, the string should be close to pitch but still slightly flat.

Repeat this process for all six strings. If you are using a string winder, insert the string winder over the peg post, hook the string into the winder's slot, and turn the handle. This is much faster and requires less hand strength.

Bring the strings up to pitch

Use a tuner to bring each string up to its correct pitch. Start with the low E string and work your way up to the high E string. Turn the tuning peg slowly and check the tuner frequently—it is straightforward to overshoot and go sharp. New strings stretch as they are brought up to pitch, so you may need to retune each string two or three times over the next few minutes.

Do not crank all the strings to pitch at once. Bring them up gradually over several minutes. This spreads the neck stress evenly and helps the strings settle. Once all six strings are at pitch, play them gently for a minute or two, then retune. New strings will drop in pitch noticeably over the first hour of playing, so expect to retune several times before they stabilize.

Trim the excess string at the headstock using wire cutters once you are satisfied with the tuning. Leave about a quarter-inch of string beyond the tuning peg so the string does not slip out. Excess string can catch on your hand while playing and looks messy.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common mistake is winding the strings too many times around the tuning pegs. More wraps do not mean better tuning stability—three to four wraps is the standard for a reason. Extra wraps make the string harder to tune and waste string material.

Another frequent error is using a screwdriver to pry out the bridge pins. This can crack or split the pins, and you will have to replace them. A string winder, coin, or plastic pick works much better and costs nothing if you already have them.

Beginners also sometimes bring all the strings up to pitch too quickly. This puts sudden stress on the neck and can cause tuning instability. Bring them up gradually over a few minutes, and retune as the strings settle.

Finally, do not skip the step of keeping tension on the string while winding. If you let the string go slack while winding, the wraps will overlap and the string will slip during tuning.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change my acoustic guitar strings?

Most players change strings every three to six months, depending on how often they play and how hard they play. If you play daily, change them every three months. If you play a few times a week, every six months is fine. Strings sound duller and lose brightness as they age, and they break more easily once they start to wear.

Do I have to change all six strings at once?

You can change them one at a time if you prefer, which keeps tension on the neck the whole time. However, changing all six at once lets you clean the fretboard and bridge, which you cannot do while strings are on. Most players change all six together for this reason.

What is the difference between bronze and phosphor bronze strings?

Bronze strings are brighter and less expensive. Phosphor bronze strings last longer and have a warmer tone. Both work fine on acoustic guitars—it comes down to your preference and budget. Phosphor bronze costs a bit more but lasts longer, so the cost per month of playing is often similar.

Why do my new strings keep going out of tune?

New strings stretch as they are played and brought up to pitch. This is normal and will stop after a few hours of playing and retuning. Retune every 10 to 15 minutes for the first hour, then less frequently as the strings settle. If strings continue to slip after a day of playing, you may not have wound them enough times around the tuning pegs.

Can I reuse the bridge pins from my old strings?

Yes, as long as they are not cracked or split. Rinse them off and inspect them before putting them back in. If any are damaged, replace them with new ones—they cost just a few dollars and come in sets.