You can change acoustic guitar strings yourself in about 15 minutes once you know the steps

Changing acoustic guitar strings is a straightforward task that costs far less than paying someone else to do it. You need wire cutters, a string winder (optional but faster), new acoustic strings, and a tuner. The process is the same whether your guitar has a pin bridge or a slotted bridge: remove the old strings one at a time, clean the fretboard while it's exposed, insert the new strings, and tune up. Most people finish in 15 to 20 minutes after their first time.

Acoustic strings wear out faster than you might expect. If your guitar sounds dull, won't hold pitch, or a string snaps, it's time to replace them. Buying a full set of replacement strings costs between $5 and $15 depending on the brand and gauge. Doing the work yourself saves the $20 to $50 labor charge at a music shop.

Key Takeaways

  • Remove old strings one at a time by loosening the tuning pegs, then pull the string out of the bridge and the headstock.
  • Clean the fretboard and bridge while the strings are off, since you won't have access again until the next change.
  • Insert new strings through the bridge hole first, then thread them up to the tuning pegs and wind them tight.
  • New strings go out of tune quickly for the first few hours, so retune every few minutes until they stabilize.
  • A string winder speeds up the process but is not required; your fingers work fine if you have patience.

What you need before you start

Gather these items before you remove a single string. Having everything ready means you won't leave the guitar partially strung while you hunt for wire cutters.

A set of acoustic guitar strings is the obvious one. Acoustic strings come in different gauges (thicknesses); most guitars ship with medium gauge (.013 to .056), and that's what you should buy unless you have a reason to change. A tuner — either a clip-on tuner or a smartphone app — is essential because new strings won't hold pitch until you've tuned them several times. Wire cutters trim the excess string after you wind it around the tuning peg. A string winder is optional; it's a small crank tool that speeds up winding, but you can turn the tuning pegs by hand if you're patient. A soft cloth helps you clean the fretboard while the strings are off.

If your bridge has bridge pins (the small pegs that hold the strings in place), you may need a bridge pin puller. Many string sets include one. If not, a flathead screwdriver or the edge of a coin works in a pinch.

How to remove the old strings

Loosen the tuning pegs on the headstock until the strings are slack enough to move by hand. Turn each peg counterclockwise (when looking at the headstock from the front) until the string hangs loose. You don't have to unwind them completely; just enough that they're not under tension.

If your guitar has bridge pins, remove them one at a time. Push the pin up and out of the bridge hole — a bridge pin puller hooks under the pin and lifts it out, but a flathead screwdriver works too. Once the pin is out, pull the string straight up and out of the bridge hole. If your guitar has a slotted bridge (the string goes through a slot rather than under a pin), straightforward pull the string out of the slot.

Pull the string up through the tuning peg hole on the headstock and remove it completely. Repeat for all six strings. Once they're all out, wipe down the fretboard, the bridge, and the body with a soft cloth. This is the only time you'll have straightforward access to these areas until you change strings again.

Installing the new strings

Start with the thickest string (the low E string). Insert the ball end (the small metal ball at the end of the string) into the bridge hole. If your guitar has bridge pins, push the pin back in on top of the ball end to hold the string in place. If it has a slotted bridge, the string sits in the slot and doesn't need a pin.

Pull the string up to the headstock and thread it through the tuning peg hole. Leave about two inches of slack — enough to wrap around the peg two or three times. Bend the string at a right angle where it exits the peg hole, then begin winding the tuning peg. Turn the peg so the string wraps around it in a downward spiral (away from the center of the headstock). If you're using a string winder, insert the crank into the tuning peg and turn it clockwise; if you're winding by hand, turn the peg itself.

Wind until the string is snug and mostly in tune. It won't be perfectly in tune yet — new strings stretch and go flat quickly. Once the string is wound, trim the excess with wire cutters. Repeat this process for the remaining five strings, working from thickest to thinnest.

Tuning and stretching new strings

Use your tuner to bring each string close to pitch. New acoustic strings stretch as you play them, so they'll drop in pitch within minutes. Retune every few minutes for the first 15 to 30 minutes of playing. This is normal and doesn't mean something is wrong.

You can speed up the stretching process by gently pulling each string away from the fretboard (not hard enough to damage anything, just enough to add tension) and then retuning. Do this a few times per string. After an hour or so of playing, the strings will hold pitch much more reliably.

Common mistakes to avoid

Winding the string in the wrong direction is the most common error. On the three bass strings (thickest), the tuning pegs are usually on the left side of the headstock, and you wind them so the string spirals downward and away from the center. On the three treble strings (thinnest), the pegs are on the right side, and you wind them the same way — downward and away from center. If you wind upward or toward the center, the string will slip and won't hold tune.

Leaving too much slack before winding wastes time and creates loose, sloppy wraps. Two inches is enough; more than that and you'll spend extra minutes cranking. Too little slack and the string won't wrap enough times around the peg to hold securely.

Forgetting to trim the excess string after winding leaves sharp ends that can catch your hand or clothing. Cut the excess as soon as you've wound each string tight.

When to change your strings

Acoustic strings typically last between three and six months with regular playing. They wear out faster if you play every day or if you play hard. Signs that it's time to change them include a dull, lifeless tone, strings that won't stay in tune, visible rust or discoloration on the wound strings, or a string that snaps.

If only one string breaks, you can replace just that one rather than the whole set. However, if you're replacing one, the others are probably wearing out too, so a full set change is usually worth doing at the same time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change one string at a time, or do I have to remove all six at once?

You can change them one at a time if you prefer. Loosen one string, remove it, install the new one, and tune it before moving to the next. This keeps the neck under tension the whole time, which some players believe is better for the guitar. The downside is that you only get to clean the fretboard once every six months instead of every string change.

What's the difference between bronze and phosphor bronze strings?

Phosphor bronze strings last longer and cost a bit more. Bronze strings are brighter and cheaper but wear out faster. For most players, phosphor bronze is the better value because you won't need to change them as often. Try both and see which tone you prefer.

Do I need to loosen the strings before I travel with my guitar?

Loosening strings slightly before a long flight or car trip in extreme heat can reduce stress on the neck, but it's not required for short trips. If you do loosen them, tune them back up as soon as you arrive. Leaving them loose for days can cause the neck to shift.

Why do new strings go out of tune so quickly?

New strings stretch as the metal fibers settle and adjust to the tension. This is normal and stops after a few hours of playing. Retune every few minutes for the first 30 minutes, and the strings will stabilize.

Should I replace the bridge pins when I change strings?

Bridge pins don't wear out, so you don't need to replace them. If one cracks or splits, replace just that one. Most players keep the same pins for years.