Putting on new guitar strings takes about 15 to 20 minutes once you know the order

The process is straightforward: remove the old strings one at a time, thread the new string through the bridge or bridge pin, pull it up the neck to the tuning peg, wrap it around the post, and tune it tight. You do not need special tools beyond wire cutters and the tuning pegs that came with your guitar. The hardest part for most people is wrapping the string neatly around the tuning post so it does not slip—but that is a matter of practice, not skill.

The key is working one string at a time rather than removing all six at once. That way the neck stays under tension and you do not have to reset the bridge (on acoustic guitars) or deal with a floppy neck while you work.

Key Takeaways

  • Remove and replace one string at a time to keep the guitar neck under tension and avoid resetting the bridge.
  • Thread the string through the bridge or under the bridge pin, then pull it straight up the neck to the tuning peg on the headstock.
  • Wrap the string around the tuning post two to three times, keeping tension so the wraps sit neatly without overlapping.
  • Tune each string to pitch using a tuner, then let the guitar sit for a few hours—new strings will go flat and need retuning.

What you need before you start

Gather a new set of guitar strings (the gauge and type matched to your guitar), wire cutters, and a tuner. Most people also keep a cloth nearby to wipe the fretboard while the strings are off. You do not need a string winder, though one speeds up the wrapping step—a pencil through the tuning post works just as well.

If you have never changed strings before, watch a video of someone doing it on your exact guitar type (acoustic or electric) first. The bridge attachment is different between the two, and seeing it once makes the written steps click into place.

Removing the old string

Loosen the tuning peg at the headstock by turning it counterclockwise until the string goes slack. You can loosen all six at once if you want, or do them one at a time—one at a time is safer for the neck. Once the string is slack, unwind it completely from the tuning post and pull it out.

On an acoustic guitar, remove the bridge pin (the small wooden or plastic peg that holds the string in the bridge hole) by gently prying it up with your fingernail or a small tool. On an electric guitar, the string straightforward pulls out of the bridge or bridge block. Pull the old string all the way out and set it aside.

Threading the new string into the bridge

On an acoustic guitar, insert the ball end of the new string into the bridge hole, then push the bridge pin back in on top of it. The pin should sit flush with the bridge—if it sticks up, tap it gently with a hammer or the handle of a screwdriver. The string should not move when you tug it.

On an electric guitar, thread the string through the bridge block or bridge hole (depending on your model) until the ball end catches. Pull the string taut toward the headstock so it sits in the bridge saddle groove.

Wrapping the string around the tuning post

Pull the string straight up the neck toward the tuning peg. Leave about two to three inches of slack between the bridge and the tuning post—this is your wrapping room. Insert the string through the hole in the tuning post (or around the post if there is no hole).

Hold the string taut with one hand and turn the tuning peg with the other so the string wraps around the post. Wrap it two to three times, keeping the wraps neat and parallel so they do not overlap or cross. Each wrap should sit below the one before it. Once you have two or three wraps, trim the excess string with wire cutters, leaving about a quarter inch sticking out.

The wrapping direction matters: on the three tuning pegs on the left side of the headstock, turn the peg so the string wraps downward. On the three on the right, wrap upward. This keeps all the wraps neat and prevents the string from slipping.

Tuning the string to pitch

Use a tuner to bring the string up to the correct pitch. Turn the tuning peg slowly—the string will go from very slack to tight as you turn. Stop when the tuner shows the right note. Do not crank it all the way up at once; new strings stretch and will go flat, so you will retune anyway.

Repeat this process for all six strings, working from the thickest (low E) to the thinnest (high E), or in any order you prefer. Once all six are at pitch, let the guitar sit for a few hours. New strings always go flat as they settle, so retune it before you play.

Stretching new strings so they hold pitch longer

New strings take time to stabilize. After tuning them to pitch, gently pull each string away from the fretboard (not hard enough to hurt the guitar, just a steady pull) and retune. Do this two or three times per string. This helps the string settle faster and means fewer retunings over the next day or two.

Expect to retune every few hours for the first 24 hours. After that, new strings usually hold pitch much better. If a string keeps going flat after a week, check that the bridge pin is seated properly (on acoustic) or that the string is seated in the bridge saddle groove (on electric).

Frequently Asked Questions

How tight should I wrap the string around the tuning post?

Tight enough that the string does not slip when you tug it, but not so tight that you bend the post. Two to three wraps is standard. If the string slips during tuning, you did not wrap it enough times or the wraps are not sitting parallel to each other.

Can I change all six strings at once?

You can, but it is riskier. Removing all the strings at once removes all tension from the neck, which can cause the bridge to shift (on acoustic guitars) or the neck to warp slightly. Changing one at a time keeps the neck under tension and takes only a few extra minutes.

What if I break a string while wrapping it?

Start over with a fresh string from the pack. Broken strings usually snap because you wrapped too tightly or kinked the string during installation. The second time, wrap more loosely and keep the string straight as you pull it up the neck.

Do I need to cut the string before or after tuning?

Cut it after you have wrapped it around the post but before you tune it to pitch. Trim it to about a quarter inch past the post. Leaving too much excess makes the wraps messy and can cause the string to slip.

Why do new strings sound different from old ones?

New strings are brighter and have more sustain because they have not been played in yet. They will sound duller and more like your old strings after a few hours of playing. This is normal and not a sign that anything is wrong.