Putting on guitar strings takes about 15 to 20 minutes once you know the sequence

You'll remove the old strings, thread new ones through the bridge or bridge pins (depending on your guitar type), pull them up to the tuning pegs, and wind them tight. The order matters—start with the thickest string and work toward the thinnest—because it keeps tension balanced on the neck. Most people can do this with just wire cutters and the tuning pegs already on your guitar.

The exact steps differ slightly between acoustic and electric guitars, mainly in how the strings attach at the bridge end. Both methods are straightforward once you see where each part goes.

Key Takeaways

  • Remove all six old strings by loosening the tuning pegs until the strings go slack, then pull them out of the bridge and tuning peg holes.
  • On acoustic guitars, remove the bridge pins (the small pegs holding strings in the bridge) before pulling out the old strings; on electrics, strings thread directly through holes.
  • Thread new strings starting with the thickest (low E) and work toward the thinnest (high E) to keep neck tension even.
  • Wind each string around its tuning peg two to three times before tightening, leaving enough slack so the string wraps neatly without overlapping itself.
  • New strings go sharp and flat unpredictably for the first few hours, so tune them, let them settle for 10 minutes, and tune again.

Removing the old strings

Loosen each tuning peg (the knobs at the headstock) by turning it counterclockwise. You don't need to unwind completely—just enough so the string goes slack and you can pull it out by hand. Start with the thickest string (the low E) and work toward the thinnest (the high E). This order isn't critical for removal, but it's a good habit.

Once a string is slack, pull it out of the tuning peg hole. Then go to the other end of the guitar. On an acoustic guitar, you'll see small pegs (bridge pins) sticking up from the bridge. Pry these out gently with the edge of a coin or a bridge pin puller—they usually come free with light pressure. Pull out the old string. On an electric guitar, the strings thread through holes in the bridge or bridge plate on the body. straightforward pull the string straight out.

Threading new strings through the bridge

Start with the thickest string (low E). On an acoustic, insert the ball end of the string into the bridge hole, then push the bridge pin back in on top of it. The pin holds the string in place. Make sure the string sits in the small groove on top of the pin—if it's sitting on the pin itself, it will break or slip. On an electric, thread the string through the bridge hole from the back of the guitar, pulling it toward the headstock.

Repeat this for all six strings, working from thickest to thinnest. This order keeps the tension on the neck balanced as you add strings. Once all six are threaded through the bridge, you're ready to attach them at the headstock.

Winding strings onto the tuning pegs

Pull the low E string up to its tuning peg (the one closest to the edge of the headstock on most guitars). Insert the string through the hole in the tuning peg post. Leave about 2 to 3 inches of slack—this gives you room to wrap the string around the post without it overlapping itself.

Hold the string taut with one hand and turn the tuning peg counterclockwise with the other. The string will wrap around the post. Aim for two to three complete wraps before the string becomes tight. Keep tension on the string as you wind so the wraps sit neatly side by side, not on top of each other. Once the string is snug, move to the next string.

Repeat this process for all six strings, always working from thickest to thinnest. The thinner strings (especially the high E) need slightly less slack—about 1 to 2 inches—because they're easier to wind and don't need as much room.

Tuning and stretching new strings

Once all six strings are wound and roughly tight, use a tuner to bring them up to pitch. Tune each string to its correct note: low E, A, D, G, B, high E. New strings will not hold pitch perfectly at first—they'll drift sharp and flat as the metal settles.

After tuning, let the guitar sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Then tune again. You may need to do this three or four times over the first hour before the strings stabilize. This is normal and not a sign something is wrong. Some players gently stretch new strings by pulling on them (away from the body, not toward it) to speed up the settling process, but this is optional.

Cutting off excess string length

Once the strings are tuned and holding pitch, you can trim the excess length at the headstock. Use wire cutters to snip each string about 1 to 2 inches above the tuning peg post. Leave a little extra so the string doesn't slip out of the hole, but trim enough that loose ends don't poke you or catch on things.

Be careful when cutting—the cut ends are sharp. Some players wear safety glasses or cut away from their face. After cutting, the job is done. Your strings should hold their tuning much more reliably now.

Acoustic vs. electric: the main differences

The core process is the same, but the bridge attachment differs. Acoustic guitars use bridge pins to hold the string ball end in place. These pins must be removed before you can pull out old strings and inserted after you thread new ones. Electric guitars have the string thread through a hole in the bridge or bridge plate, so there's no pin to manage.

Some electric guitars have a bridge that sits on top of the body (a Fender Stratocaster, for example), while others have the strings go through the body itself (a Les Paul). In both cases, you straightforward thread the string through the hole and pull it toward the headstock. The winding process at the tuning pegs is identical on both guitar types.

Frequently Asked Questions

How tight should I wind the string around the tuning peg?

Wind until the string is snug and doesn't slip when you tug it gently, but not so tight that you can't turn the tuning peg smoothly. Two to three wraps around the post is the standard. If you wind too many times, the string takes longer to tune and can slip. If you wind too few, it may not hold pitch.

What if a string breaks while I'm winding it?

Stop when ready and remove the broken piece. Start over with a fresh string from the package. Strings rarely break during normal winding, so if one does, it was likely already damaged. Don't try to tie the broken ends together—replace the string.

Do I need to remove all six strings at once, or can I change them one at a time?

You can change them one at a time if you prefer. This keeps tension on the neck the whole time and is gentler on older guitars. The downside is it takes longer and makes cleaning the fretboard harder. Removing all six at once is faster and lets you wipe down the neck, but it's not necessary.

How often should I replace my guitar strings?

This depends on how often you play. Casual players might change strings every 3 to 6 months. Regular players often change every 1 to 3 months. Strings sound duller and feel rougher as they age, and they're more likely to break. If a string breaks, you can replace just that one string instead of all six.

Why do new strings go out of tune so quickly?

New strings are under stress as the metal settles into its new shape. The wraps around the tuning peg post also shift slightly as you play. This is temporary and normal. After a few hours of playing and retuning, new strings stabilize and hold pitch much better than old ones.